Let's See Your Jigs

TKOjams

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It's really interesting (to me) how everyone has their own vision as to making their builds easier. Creating jigs to speed up the process, or to ensure that the shapes are cut consistently from build to build.

I've seen some wonderful jigs fabricated by some of the members here on MLP. Some amazingly simple, some incredibly complex, but all working flawlessly with perfect results.

This thread has the ability be a great source of reference, not only for someone just starting out on their guitar building journey, but also for the seasoned builders looking to streamline the process.

So, here's your chance to show off your coolest jig creations.

Let's see 'em guys.:cool:
 

TKOjams

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I built this little jig for my hand drill after screwing up the placement on my side dots. The bit was too small to fit my drill press, so I had to do it free hand.
I will revisit the strap that holds the drill the next time I need to use it.


 

bghk6581

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I've posted a couple jigs on here before. A few may look similar to the ones that I've seen here that has been my inspiration for mine.

Fret slotting jig:


Top carve jig:




Pin router:




Fretboard taper jig:


Fretboard radius jig:


Router Planer/thicknesser:


Dremel Inlaying base:


I don't have a picture of a box jig for angle planing but I'll take one next week and post it or if I can find one I'll post it later.
 

bghk6581

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I built this little jig for my hand drill after screwing up the placement on my side dots. The bit was too small to fit my drill press, so I had to do it free hand.
I will revisit the strap that holds the drill the next time I need to use it.


Thats genius! I may make one of those because I always have issues making my side dots level.
 

155

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this thread needs to be 100 pages long , when I figure something out ill post it...
 

Blackdog

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My jig for drilling the side dots is very simple. It's just a small aluminium bracket for guiding the drill bit.


I align it using one of the two centering marks (one for single dot and one for the twin 12th fret dots) and lock it to the back of the fretboard in the vise.
It produces very consistently aligned holes.
 

Blackdog

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I have shown this already in the 3xLP build thread, but it may be worth posting it here too.
I made this jig to cut the tenon, with the appropriate angled shoulders, on the neck blanks before tapering. It works in basically three steps.
First the tenon is rough cut with the band saw.


Then the neck blank is mounted centred in the jig, using the fretboard surface as the reference plane, and locked in place with the two bolts. I made the jig for two different angles, 4.3* for the LPs and 5.2* for the ES builds.


Using the table router with a short template follower bit I cut the two shoulders following the reference of the jig. If the neck blank is properly centred in the jig the two sides will be perfectly symmetrical.


Then the final step is to use a simple template and the table router to cut the rest of the tenon and the taper of the neck.
 

TKOjams

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I was waiting for you to post that one, Blackdog. I was hoping you'd find this thread.:thumb:
 

Blackdog

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I was waiting for you to post that one, Blackdog. I was hoping you'd find this thread.:thumb:
Now that I think of it, the same idea (with some care even the same jig) could be used as a miter box to guide the blade of a gents or japanese saw and get a similar result.
Personally, I tend to favour router jig ideas.
 

Claymore

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Some cool jigs out there, keep them coming!
This weekend I needed to radius some fretboard blanks.
I spent 30 seconds with the radius block and sandpaper and decided I would build a jig. Lots of options out there. I settled on this one, based on a PDF available here: http://www.eguitarplans.com/Fretboard_Radius_Jig_11x17.pdf.

I liked the design because you can easily change the radius (I build acoustics and electrics) and it can do compound radius.
The concept is pretty cool - the 1/4" pin on the side panel sets the radius, the router stays centered and the fretboard is what moves.
To use it, you just lower the bit to the center of the fretboard, then move the router along 1/4" at a time, moving the fretboard back and forth to create the radius.
I made some modifications - the side panels I increased to 6.5" from 4"" - at 4" the width is not wide enough to shape a 2.75" fretboard blank (!).
I also added a base...(?) And I use double-sided tape to hold the fretboard so I can shape the whole board.....
 

lowatter

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Some cool jigs out there, keep them coming!
This weekend I needed to radius some fretboard blanks.
I spent 30 seconds with the radius block and sandpaper and decided I would build a jig. Lots of options out there. I settled on this one, based on a PDF available here: http://www.eguitarplans.com/Fretboard_Radius_Jig_11x17.pdf.

I liked the design because you can easily change the radius (I build acoustics and electrics) and it can do compound radius.
The concept is pretty cool - the 1/4" pin on the side panel sets the radius, the router stays centered and the fretboard is what moves.
To use it, you just lower the bit to the center of the fretboard, then move the router along 1/4" at a time, moving the fretboard back and forth to create the radius.
I made some modifications - the side panels I increased to 6.5" from 4"" - at 4" the width is not wide enough to shape a 2.75" fretboard blank (!).
I also added a base...(?) And I use double-sided tape to hold the fretboard so I can shape the whole board.....
I noticed your acoustic guitar side bending jig in the background closet. Do you have a steam box too? When I attempted my 1st acoustic build years ago I used a simple small free-standing element heater with forced air to keep the jig hot while clamping the sides down. Worked great for my 1st and last attempt. After I formed the cut-away I splintered the horn like 1st timers would do on some pretty choice rosewood and got soo frustrated that I just sold the rest of the guitar parts on the "bay" and vowed that I'd let the real luthiers tackle such a feat. I may make another slab solid bodied scratch-build someday but that's the extent of what I'll take on.
 

Claymore

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Nope, definitely no steam box.
Actually I find the less moisture the better - Taylor bends without any added moisture whatever. I lightly spritz with distilled H2O, wrap in parchment paper then spring steel slats, and a silicone heat blanket on top. Once that sucker hits 300F the bending takes about 30 seconds...
 

TKOjams

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I just finished this one yesterday. It's for routing the board for inlays.(the fretted board is just for show)

 

pinefd

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TKOjams

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This is a piece of junk!!



And we've all seen the one Stew Mc has for $50+.

I just finished this one up about 5 min. ago out of "stuff" I had laying around the shop. Cost? $0.00. The Dremel collar is glued in with epoxy.





I can't wait to try it out.:thumb:
 

geoffrod

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This is a piece of junk!!



And we've all seen the one Stew Mc has for $50+.

I just finished this one up about 5 min. ago out of "stuff" I had laying around the shop. Cost? $0.00. The Dremel collar is glued in with epoxy.





I can't wait to try it out.:thumb:
i want to try to make one of these as well.
i have some perspex laying about, and some gutter bolts, one thing i thought might make it quicker to adjust the depth is using wing nuts, no need for spanners then, adjust it on the run??? just a thought.
cheers
geoff
 

TKOjams

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i want to try to make one of these as well.
i have some perspex laying about, and some gutter bolts, one thing i thought might make it quicker to adjust the depth is using wing nuts, no need for spanners then, adjust it on the run??? just a thought.
cheers
geoff
No wing nuts in the shop.:naughty:
I will be getting some though.
 

Claymore

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I use this home-made saddle-matic for aligning the bridge location.
I center the bridge first by holding a straight-edge down the side of each edge of the fretboard. Then I use this - there is a notch at the far block for the 12th fret - butt it up to the nut, reverse and mark the bridge location from the set screws, which are set out 2/64" treble and 5/64" bass for 25" scale. The screw pitch is 32tpi so one full turn is 1/32".
 

TKOjams

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I use this home-made saddle-matic for aligning the bridge location.
I center the bridge first by holding a straight-edge down the side of each edge of the fretboard. Then I use this - there is a notch at the far block for the 12th fret - butt it up to the nut, reverse and mark the bridge location from the set screws, which are set out 2/64" treble and 5/64" bass for 25" scale. The screw pitch is 32tpi so one full turn is 1/32".
Love the saddle-matic, I use it on every one of my builds:thumb:
 


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