Les Paul 2014 - Coil Tapping Modification

shawn7

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dude, I don't know if you can understand what he did, but I have the answer...

get a Seymour Duncan SH-10, new or used.

You cut the harness wire bundle, that thick bundle of 5 wires, that leads to the little plug "Bridge". You wire (first twist, test, then solder) the Seymour Duncan or other 4 lead wire better bridge pickup to the ends of that lead that goes to the bridge plug.

reverse the north coil wiring, but leave the south wiring standard, and of course the bare ground to bare ground....: The wires are color coded, see the Seymour Duncan pup, and the Gibson lead wires and instructions, what color to what color below. It doesn't matter if it makes sense, because it doesn't (because Gibson reversed the wiring of the pups...) but I guarantee it works...

Voila, you are good to go with a "more human than human" les paul...

Reverse the SD north coil only
So the SD N Start Black is connected to the Gibson harness N Finish White,
and the SD N Finish White to the Gibson N Start Red
----------
The South Coil is to remain standard:
SD S Start Green to Gibson S Start Black, and SD S Finish Red to Gibson S Finish
Green...
 

lovesacdc

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Exactly.

Gibsons should be thought of as a sort of kit, a sort of potholed road leading toward your dream of a working guitar. The nut may be cut too high (mod it!) and it may be difficult to keep in tune (more modding and some pencil lead). The bridge and the tailpiece may be too high because the neck angle is off a bit, the pickups may have a tilt because Gibson doesn't want to spend for that one extra screw that would allow you to adjust the tilt. Mod it! The frets may not be level and might be sticking out on the ends and might even have flat tops and feel a bit scratchy when you bend. That's what aftermarket PLEK machines, steel wool, and a bit of rough leather are for.

It's all there to help you develop a working knowledge of the inner workings of your guitar. Gibson considers that education part of the price you pay for a high-end guitar with the Gibson logo. You need to work for it to make it truly yours. :slash:
Thanks for this reply. It makes alot of sense to me.
 

Robert Davies

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Axomann dude - your pics have gone walkabout from the first post!

Can you fix it please?!?!
 

Stuff

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Pcbs are really the way forward as long as players demands are there. Some complain about 50's or 60's wiring...

A PCB where you can switch between both? Would be great but I think that for the ordinary player that wants a les paul I don't think thats relevant, that said, neither for gibson.
Toneshapers do one. I put one in my 2013 Sig-T, partly as I'm a klutz with a soldering iron, and partly because it makes it real easy to switch out pickups. I don't have the experience to say how it compares tone-wise with a decent wiring loom. I think it's an improvement on the factory wiring at least.
 

jeffy

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Axomann dude - your pics have gone walkabout from the first post!

Can you fix it please?!?!
If he doesn't post anything I'll dig out my guitar and check the pin-outs on the pickups for you. The wiring is pretty self-explanatory since all you're doing is removing the Mallory cap and reconnecting the two points.
 

Robert Davies

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Thanks Jeffy, it was only the pinouts I really needed - as you say, the wiring is just removing the cap from the wire from the top of the push-pull pot.

Appreciate it if you could take a look at the pinouts for me - no rush!

-Rob
 

jeffy

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Here's the pics of mine.

Neck - Black Red Green White Ground


Bridge - Green White Black Red Ground

 

jeffy

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While you're at it do a PIO and a 50's style wiring.
 

Robert Davies

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Way ahead of you on the PIOs, but 50's on a PCB? I've tried searching but got precisely nowhere. If you can dig up a link I'd appreciate that too!
 

jeffy

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Yeah, there isn't any exact information for the PCB. It's as simple as with the non-PCB setup though. You just have to get a little creative when moving the leg of the cap. It traces to the bottom leg of the Vol pot. Since you have PIO, I assume you have long legs on the cap since you can't really fit it in the tight area next to the board. I moved the leg on the Vol side of the board and attached it to the middle leg on the Vol pot. Basically you're copying this:



I soldered the cap's leg to a flat area on the Vol pot. You can kinda see what I did here.

 

twangolia

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I have a 2014 std & the cap arrangement is the same as chappers now taps to slugs - just got to do the plug wires now
 

Axomann

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The day they come out with Page-Modern I will buy one for all of my Les Paul's.
It looks good. But open the cavity to change the wiring is not a very good idea for me. It works better with a push pull potentiometer.
 

Ant

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Mods should sticky this thread, heaps of great info and mods for 2012 standards to 2015.
Modern to 50's wiring
Fat tap to normal coil split
Slug to screw bobbin for coil split wiring configuration in the molex plugs
:dude:
 

spad91

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Hi all,

I have read all posts here with much interest, after I got myself a nice 2012 Les Paul Studio. Based on the slug/screw coil mod suggested above, here's my suggestion, the idea being, when splitting coils, to still use the slug coil for the bridge pickup, so the sound isn't too harsh, and use the screw coil for the neck pickup. This effectively being a reverse polarity, all there is left to do is make sure we have reverse winding, too, so using both pickups together when split will give hum cancelling at no extra cost. :thumb:



I have also found people have played around with the value of the capacitor, when they have chosen to keep it in, and some have also tried adding a resistor in series, to lessen the effect of the cap. After a bit of experimentation on my end, I have found I like a 0.033µF cap with a 33K resistor in series for the bridge pickup, which takes me in some sort of P-90ish territory (a nice, mild bump in the mids), and a 0.22µF cap on its own for the neck pickup, which scoops the mids yet retains a kind of 'Ooompf' in the low end. :)

Hope this helps a few like the posts above have helped me.

Cheers
 

spad91

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...Here's the freshly modded PCB, including a tapered treble bleed for each pickup: I just cannot live without it... :D
The tapered treble bleed implies sticking to the modern wiring, but I find the response in treble, when lowering my volumes, more natural sounding than with the 50's wiring... And definitely MUCH more than with the modern wiring alone... :thumb:



And here it is when back in my LP, with the pickups wired as I suggested above, so the "full" coils are RWRP when both pickups are split and the toggle switch is in the middle position. :)
The neck pickup split is through a 0.22µF (220nF) cap, the bridge pickup split is through a 33K resistor in series with a 0.022µF (22nF) cap. :dude:



Cheers
 

spad91

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Mmm... Ended up with my pickups being out of phase in the middle position... I must admit I did not see this coming; can anyone tell me where my reasoning has gone wrong?
I have applied the same theory with a non-PCB Les Paul, and it has worked just fine... Do the wires in the 2012 Studio match the usual colour scheme...? :hmm:
Anyway, I have eventually decided having the screw coils as the "full" coils when fat split is probably the best option: because the slug coil is still partially active, the brightness in the bridge pickup is still tempered. :)
 


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