Les Paul 2014 - Coil Tapping Modification

dspelman

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I really admire people that rather than insult gibson about the PCB's, mod them.
Exactly.

Gibsons should be thought of as a sort of kit, a sort of potholed road leading toward your dream of a working guitar. The nut may be cut too high (mod it!) and it may be difficult to keep in tune (more modding and some pencil lead). The bridge and the tailpiece may be too high because the neck angle is off a bit, the pickups may have a tilt because Gibson doesn't want to spend for that one extra screw that would allow you to adjust the tilt. Mod it! The frets may not be level and might be sticking out on the ends and might even have flat tops and feel a bit scratchy when you bend. That's what aftermarket PLEK machines, steel wool, and a bit of rough leather are for.

It's all there to help you develop a working knowledge of the inner workings of your guitar. Gibson considers that education part of the price you pay for a high-end guitar with the Gibson logo. You need to work for it to make it truly yours. :slash:
 

Axomann

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Exactly.

Gibsons should be thought of as a sort of kit, a sort of potholed road leading toward your dream of a working guitar. The nut may be cut too high (mod it!) and it may be difficult to keep in tune (more modding and some pencil lead). The bridge and the tailpiece may be too high because the neck angle is off a bit, the pickups may have a tilt because Gibson doesn't want to spend for that one extra screw that would allow you to adjust the tilt. Mod it! The frets may not be level and might be sticking out on the ends and might even have flat tops and feel a bit scratchy when you bend. That's what aftermarket PLEK machines, steel wool, and a bit of rough leather are for.

It's all there to help you develop a working knowledge of the inner workings of your guitar. Gibson considers that education part of the price you pay for a high-end guitar with the Gibson logo. You need to work for it to make it truly yours. :slash:
You are absolutely right! They are playing with the emocional component of the LP fans. If you want to have quality on an instrument, then buy a PRS ;-)
 

Ant

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When I pull the bypass on my 13 it's straight bridge humbucker, no hum no nothing. Switch in the neck position doesn't matter it goes to the bridge, volume off doesn't matter. It's noticeably brighter, louder, hotter and harsher.
Ok, I was asking for only when the bridge pickup is split, bridge volume up - and the bypass tone knob pulled up at the same time, compared to just the bypass up by itself. As i thought once the by pass tone switch is up, all switch positions even when on bridge,with splits active are irrelevant - it should be full boar bridge hum bucker to the jack.
 

60Cycle

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Ok, I was asking for only when the bridge pickup is split, bridge volume up - and the bypass tone knob pulled up at the same time, compared to just the bypass up by itself. As i thought once the by pass tone switch is up, all switch positions even when on bridge,with splits active are irrelevant - it should be full boar bridge hum bucker to the jack.

Should be, yes unless there was some change between the 13 and 12 midyear in there somewhere.


ETA I wanted to triple check so I went and cranked up the Marshall, I do get an ever so slight hum and slight variation in tone when the bypass and splitter are both pulled. Its not the same "amount" of tone change, its ever so slight as compared to just popping the bridge volume.
 

chappers

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My 14 studio pro coil split sounds nothing like a single coil, it just makes the it sound like a really dull lifeless humbucker. The pcb looks like this. Has anyone modded one of these setups yet for better tone?

 

jeffy

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My 14 studio pro coil split sounds nothing like a single coil, it just makes the it sound like a really dull lifeless humbucker. The pcb looks like this. Has anyone modded one of these setups yet for better tone?

I suspect that's the same circuit minus the phase and bypass circuit. Looks more like a 2012/13 with the open pots.

C1 and C2 are those two long wires from the top of the pot with the Mallory 0.01uf capacitor. If you look at your pin-outs on the pickups, they look to be the same as the Standard's so I suspect you could do the same as what Axomann has done.
 

chappers

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I suspect that's the same circuit minus the phase and bypass circuit. Looks more like a 2012/13 with the open pots.

C1 and C2 are those two long wires from the top of the pot with the Mallory 0.01uf capacitor. If you look at your pin-outs on the pickups, they look to be the same as the Standard's so I suspect you could do the same as what Axomann has done.
Thanks for that, now I've had a closer look I can see how they are very similar, I'll have a play around with the circuit tomorrow and see if I can improve it.
 

Woolibu1111

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I wish I could understand this. I get the unplug the neck and bridge pup wiring harnesses and switching the wires around but get lost on the desoldering. Ohh well. Still an awesome post.
 

jeffy

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I wish I could understand this. I get the unplug the neck and bridge pup wiring harnesses and switching the wires around but get lost on the desoldering. Ohh well. Still an awesome post.
That's done to remove the capacitor which is part of the "Fat-Tap" circuit. Axomann's pictures show the PCB after it's been removed and the jumper added. If you don't have a 2014 Standard then you'll have to add a 24AWG wire to go from the pot to the board since you won't have C1 and C2.

You could switch the pin-out on the pickups without removing the capacitor but you won't get the same results.
 

chappers

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I just removed the capacitors and switched the pickup wires around and the result is like night and day, really great mod. Thanks guys. :dude:
 

mystique1

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I just removed the capacitors and switched the pickup wires around and the result is like night and day, really great mod. Thanks guys. :dude:
Any chance you could post a pic' of the modification. I have the same coil tap problem with my '14 Studio. The electrics look exactly the same as your Studio Pro.
 

chappers

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This is a simple before and after photo of the PCB, you will also need to swap the pins in the pickup connectors like the first post.

Before:


After: the yellow wires are new which replaced the capacitors.


Hope this helps
 

Axomann

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I just removed the capacitors and switched the pickup wires around and the result is like night and day, really great mod. Thanks guys. :dude:
Great! I really enjoy when a mod is useful for other guitar players too :dude:

Let's Rock :slash::slash::slash:
 

mystique1

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This is a simple before and after photo of the PCB, you will also need to swap the pins in the pickup connectors like the first post.
Great, many thanks! I'll have a crack at it tomorrow evening. Will ordinary hook up wire do to replace the capacitors?
 

mystique1

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Tried the mod' tonight by removing the 2 capacitors, and connecting the 2 points with plain hook up wire. I don't have the eyesight to change the tiny pup connector leads, not until I can get my hands on a magnifying glass at least, but just by removing the caps you do get a much more usable single coil type sound. Excellent post, and thanks again to Axomann and Chappers for the pics and advice.
 

Woolibu1111

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I'm scared to to take my soldering iron to that damn pcb. But I think I'm going to give it a go this weekend. And yes thanks for the info guys I can't wait to hear the change
 

jeffy

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Well, I did it as well

Mine's on a 2012 Standard with PIO caps and 50's style wiring. As many of you already know, when you use the 'Fat-Taps' you really have to think if it's changed any since it's so subtle. Not anymore! It's clearly split and sounds great.


 

shawn7

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ok, I have the same guitar. The neck pup 490R sounded great, to me. the bridge 490T sounded weak, even in humbucker... I researched the fat tap, and found a Gibson video :thumb:describing the Fat Tap, which one of the guys made a mysterious, no elaboration mention of the fact that these guitars had reverse wound coils, for a hum cancelling or in/out of phase effect or other tonal effect. Well, whatever he was talking about I am sure there is something to this.

I wanted a better, more "regular" or even hotter les paul tone from the bridge. I play everything, and wanted the elusive, good clean, great distorted for hard rock and metal.

I lucked out and scored a Seymour Duncan Full Shred (SH-10). It is a MEDIUM output pups, not a high output, which the name and 10 designation always made me think. I cut the harness and wired it in. I matched the traditional Seymour duncan to Gibson wire conversions... Guess what? the tap was disabled completely, and it sounded like it was in "perma" single... So, I emailed Gibson. they quickly sent me a wire conversion chart, which I already had, and a standard humbucker wiring diagram which is useless for this circuit...

SO I thought duh, time to play with the wires....

I found out that:
A. you can wire in a Seymour Duncan and assume ANY four lead humbucker in, just reverse the north wires, and wire the South wires the regular way.

If you do not do it this way, it's in permanent crap mode, and the push pull does nothing. I think if you wire it straight, the slug is the dominant coil.

Anyway:

reversed the SD north coil only
So the SD N Start Black is connected to the Gibson harness N Finish White,
and the SD N Finish White to the Gibson N Start Red
----------
The South Coil is to remain standard:
SD S Start Green to Gibson S Start Black, and SD S Finish Red to Gibson S Finish Green...


===============

Lastly, the SH-10 is suppsed to have about 14 output, the guy I bought it from said it measured 13. I thought this would be too hot to balance with the 490R...

Wrong, it balanced perfectly, I have no idea but suspect it is due to the overall effect of the circuit board somehow..

I am happy as hell with the sound, and STRONGLY recommend to anyone with a Les Paul Studio 2014 to get a bridge Seymour Duncan SH-10!!!

I pretty sure it is standard SH-10, not the Trem spaced TB-10, you should just measure yourself, or email me and I'll get off my ass and do it.

Anyway, good luck, and any tips, hey I hope to read them, open to suggestions....

(I assume in split
My 14 studio pro coil split sounds nothing like a single coil, it just makes the it sound like a really dull lifeless humbucker. The pcb looks like this. Has anyone modded one of these setups yet for better tone?

 


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