Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes

Barnaby

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Yikes! :shock:

Looks like the tenon is really having trouble getting in there. If I were you, I might measure where the mortise meets the bottom of the pickup cavity and then check the tenon to be sure that it isn't reaching the bottom of the mortise. You should be able to figure out (with some trial and error) where the problem spots are. Also, spend some time checking that the neck and body angles are consistent.

From your photo, it looks like the problem is actually with the mortise edge itself on the RH side. Very careful sanding is probably the safest...although, personally, I'd use a very sharp chisel to fit things if the bottom of the mortise is level and at the correct angle.
 

jordans0nly

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Yikes! :shock:

Looks like the tenon is really having trouble getting in there. If I were you, I might measure where the mortise meets the bottom of the pickup cavity and then check the tenon to be sure that it isn't reaching the bottom of the mortise. You should be able to figure out (with some trial and error) where the problem spots are. Also, spend some time checking that the neck and body angles are consistent.

From your photo, it looks like the problem is actually with the mortise edge itself on the RH side. Very careful sanding is probably the safest...although, personally, I'd use a very sharp chisel to fit things if the bottom of the mortise is level and at the correct angle.
Hmm..
 

Barnaby

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On further reflection, check the mortise sides. If they are straight, adjust the tenon to fit. If they are not, then adjusting the tenon will only make things worse. They may have swelled or changed shape due to moisture, making the fit bad.
 

jordans0nly

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Well, hopefully I'll figure it out soon. Ready to get this thing painted..
 

jordans0nly

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Alright fellers,

I've made progress in the past hour or so. Tell me what you think..







Now, the bottom of the tenon, is sitting just a bit above the cavity. That normal? If not, what to do about it? Seems like I've sanded by tail off, lol.


 

bfcg

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measure the depth of both parts. Make sure that there is no glue or any other shputz under the fingerboard.
 

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MBrennan

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Looking forward to seeing them both completed. Before you throw out the neck
try a small shim in the bottom of the pocket. That's what I did and then put
the level on it and it was 4.1 degrees which is perfect. Once I glued it, I
put another small shim in the gap at the front on the side, mainly just for
extra assurance, as I was told I didn't need to. It seems to have come out
fine. I'm sure they were all cut the same, as it looks like someone messed
up the measurement for the neck tenon, or the body route?
What was the angle of your neck before you started fixing. Mine is in the 5.5 degree range.

Also, the tenon seems much thinner than anything I've seen from others that have posted. The factory "fix" was to put maple shims on the sides of the mortise (which I've removed). However; the bottom of the tenon also isn't square with the sides.

I may try to glue shims on the sides of the tenon, and also on the bottom, and then try to re-shape the tenon.

I can't believe it's already been a month since I last posted-slammed at work.

Good news is that the Jr. is in the paint stage. LP-4 kit is on the radar. :thumb:
 

jordans0nly

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I have to fill in a few gaps with glue. What's the best way to go about this? I've applied the shellac, sanded it before hand.

I've mixed my acetone/binding for glue. Thanks guys.
 

MBrennan

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I have to fill in a few gaps with glue. What's the best way to go about this? I've applied the shellac, sanded it before hand.

I've mixed my acetone/binding for glue. Thanks guys.
Where are the gaps you need to fill? Are they between the body and binding. Also, are you doing a solid color finish or a burst type? How you fill the gaps depends on the final finish choice.

There are a lot more experienced people than me that can add suggestions, but I'll add what I can. :thumb:
 

jordans0nly

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Where are the gaps you need to fill? Are they between the body and binding. Also, are you doing a solid color finish or a burst type? How you fill the gaps depends on the final finish choice.

There are a lot more experienced people than me that can add suggestions, but I'll add what I can. :thumb:
Yea, just a few spots between the body and binding. I'll be doing a tobacco burst with amber and black.
 

MBrennan

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Yea, just a few spots between the body and binding. I'll be doing a tobacco burst with amber and black.
You might be able to make a wood "putty" like Bossman did with yellow glue and saw dust to fill in the voids, then just sand it back.

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/custom-shop/111398-bossmans-kit-build-5.html#post2662750

That way it may still blend in when you put finish over it.

Or, if the burst will be almost solid next to the binding, you could fill with Gap Filling CA glue and sand it back smooth, spray the black over the fill, and scrape the binding.

Just off the top of my head.
 

jordans0nly

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You might be able to make a wood "putty" like Bossman did with yellow glue and saw dust to fill in the voids, then just sand it back.

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/custom-shop/111398-bossmans-kit-build-5.html#post2662750

That way it may still blend in when you put finish over it.

Or, if the burst will be almost solid next to the binding, you could fill with Gap Filling CA glue and sand it back smooth, spray the black over the fill, and scrape the binding.

Just off the top of my head.

That does look pretty cool huh? :)

Might try it.
 

bossman302

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Boss, hope you don't mind if I steal that glue idea from you, lol.

Should I try it use it on the few gaps in binding that I have to fill up? I'll be doing a tobacco burst, so, if I glue it up, sand it back, that the paints, will cover them up anyway?
I don't know anything about tobacco burst finishes so if you plan on doing the sides a solid black then you can use anything to fill in the gaps. You can use grain filler, regular putty, or the saw dust and glue.

If you plan on staining the sides or staying a natural color then I would suggest the saw dust and glue. This will blend in the best. In my case this worked out really well. It stands out in the picture but in person you don't even know its there.
 

jordans0nly

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I'll be staining the sides a little. Not too dark, but hopefully will look good.
 

RubberDucky

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I have been reading through this thread because I am interested in buying a kit. I was wondering if there is one brand that you pros feel stands out above the rest. I want a quality kit at a decent price, just like everyone else! Is there a thread about this? I can't find one. Any advice?
 

Cpt_Gonzo

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Bulldog bodies is a nice option. Will have some issues but in general, they are the most consistent kits out there in that price region, have the best woods and require the least amount of work.

Of course, there are some people who got bad kits but Jay is very helpful and friendly and replaces damaged items without trouble.
 




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