Just got my LP back w/ Upgraded Electronics

Niloy63

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Finally got the electronics on my LP Silver Swirl Burst upgraded.

ELECTRONICS
Wiring Harness (from Matt @ Martin Six String Customs):
---500K Audio Taper Vol Pots
---500K Audio Taper PUSH/PULL Tone Pots
---0.022/400K Bridge Cap
---0.015/400K Neck Cap
Pickups
---SD Custom bridge (coil split)
---SD Pearly Gates neck (coil split)

HARDWARE
---Graph Tech XL Nut
---Gotoh Tuners (1:21 Gear Ratio)
---Schaller Strap Locks

Engravings
Engraved pickup cover w/o screwholes (from GreasyGrooves)
Engraved truss rod cover (from Dave @ FretsOnTheNet)

Pics






Review

First off, the wiring harness... I knew that getting upgraded Pots/Caps would make a difference. But wow, they REALLY DO make a difference! Thanks to Matt @ MartinSixStringCustoms for making one hell of a quality product. The audio taper pots have made my dynamic control much more smooth. The stock Linear taper was hard for me to roll off and get a grasp on. And the bump from 300K to 500K... love it!

Secondly, the pickups (both coil split)... While I can appreciate the stock 498T/490R, I believe the Custom/PGn combo blow them out of the water. And the fact that both of the are coil split has added so much variety! I was smiling like a buffoon all day yesterday. Couldn't get enough of it! I've read multiple accounts of some people claiming there is but a minimal difference when split. I vehemently disagree. Maybe getting the higher quality wiring harness from Matt played a big role in getting that noticeable difference in the push/pull Tone Pots, but the extra tonal variety slaps a smile on my face. The tone that comes out of a Pearly Gates neck, split, tone knob about 1/3rd from maxed treble... it's a heavenly clean/chorus tone. "Pearly Gates" was definitely the appropriate name for this pup!

Thirdly, the pickup covers/truss rod covers. I had to ask a couple of my buddies what they thought of the guitar aesthetically. Some love it, some don't. Of course there will be some who love the stock look more, and I can live with that. I have a deep, personal affinity for the 'Ohm' symbol, so I was going to put it on there no matter what. I'm glad that the engraving turned out subtle, and not too gaudy. I'm getting another truss rod cover with smaller font, and silver engraving to match the silver "Gibson" logo on the headstock. Should be a better match than the white.

Well, that's all for now, folks. :)
 

CRobbins

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Right on, it looks great, and it's all yours.:dude::dude:
 

frankv

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I love the upgrade path. No question. Now go for the Faber locking bridge with posts and a Farber lightweight stop bar.

Definitely yank that Nashville bridge and tone robbing stop bar. You are almost there.
 

Niloy63

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I love the upgrade path. No question. Now go for the Faber locking bridge with posts and a Farber lightweight stop bar.

Definitely yank that Nashville bridge and tone robbing stop bar. You are almost there.

That is very interesting! I apologize if this sounds like an uber-amateur statement, but I've only heard of Faber bridges. I never actually knew what made them unique or worthwhile to put on a guitar. I've always thought that the Nashville TonePros were the standard for quality guitars. Looks like that may have only been an assumption. I'd like to learn more about Faber. I appreciate the heads up1! :thumb:

I wanted to ask one thing if anyone has knowledge on this. Someone I met in passing this weekend told me that it's relatively cheap to replace fingerboards. Apparently, you can get an Ebony fingerboard for ~$42, and have it stained for an additional ~$7. I ran across a custom inlay maker that said if I provided him with an Ebony fingerboard, he would charge $300 for making, cutting, and installing a set of custom inlays (of my choosing/design) onto the provided fingerboard (on the normal inlayed frets: 3,5,7,9,12... 21). This is only $350 so far. Out of curiosity, does anyone know what a luthier would charge to remove a fingerboard and install a new one on a LP? I'm not sure if it's worth it, but it's something that has crossed my mind to truly make this guitar mine. :)
 

ARandall

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Looks good.

Have you had any squeal?? It looks like the adjustable poles on the pickups would have to be really screwed down so that the cover could be fitted without a gap on the top (which would have been microphonic)

Faber make good (and relatively affordable) bridges and tailpieces. The Nashville has a broader range for intonation, but the abr style is better for tone as there are fewer interfaces between string and wood. Faber make a couple of different style bridges to allow you to use an abr style bridge (for more vintage looks) and they also eliminate the stud + screw-in insert in favour of a 1 piece insert.
 

Niloy63

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Looks good.

Have you had any squeal?? It looks like the adjustable poles on the pickups would have to be really screwed down so that the cover could be fitted without a gap on the top (which would have been microphonic)

Faber make good (and relatively affordable) bridges and tailpieces. The Nashville has a broader range for intonation, but the abr style is better for tone as there are fewer interfaces between string and wood. Faber make a couple of different style bridges to allow you to use an abr style bridge (for more vintage looks) and they also eliminate the stud + screw-in insert in favour of a 1 piece insert.
I played the guitar for a few hours yesterday without any squealing so far (thank goodness). I had the p'up potted between it and the cover. Theoretically, from at least what I understand, this second potting should take care of any possible microphonics (even at high gain).

Thanks for the info on Faber bridges!:thumb: Does it really make that much of a difference in sustain? If they have a direct drop-in replacement for the Nashville TonePros, I will seriously look into it. And thank goodness they won't break the bank, so that's always a plus! :applause:
 

frankv

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That is very interesting! I apologize if this sounds like an uber-amateur statement, but I've only heard of Faber bridges. I never actually knew what made them unique or worthwhile to put on a guitar. I've always thought that the Nashville TonePros were the standard for quality guitars. Looks like that may have only been an assumption. I'd like to learn more about Faber. I appreciate the heads up1! :thumb:
Here ya go. All my guitars gets these upgrades.

http://www.cvgshop.com/Faber-Parts-Tone-Lock-(Studs,-Tailpieces,-Bridges)-Tone-Lock-MASTER-KIT/c4_19_38/index.html

Get the master setup. Larry at CV guitars is one of the best support people you will ever deal with. I have always had incredible results with these kits. I have a master set ready to go on my refinished XR1.
 

politenessman

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Callaham Callaham Callaham!!!!! stainless steel> aluminum and zinc. USA>China.
 

Niloy63

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Callaham Callaham Callaham!!!!! stainless steel> aluminum and zinc. USA>China.

From what I gathered, Faber is made of Steel and is built in Germany... I believe.

I've heard nothing but amazing things about Callaham!
 

ARandall

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^^And a machine doesn't care what country its in.

The main thing is the hassle of the full abr conversion with a callaham....you need to get maple plugs for the Nashville holes.

The Faber stuff is good. I'd go for the BSW kit. You simply yank the nashville studs out and tap these in. The Faber abr bridge goes in on top.
Faber iNsert Steel bridge Studs - CV Guitars

I went for the BSW kit, which requires slightly more woodwork. The difference in sustain convinced even the skeptics at the shop who couldn't believe their ears when they heard the guitar with the new bridge/studs in place.
 

politenessman

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faber is made of aluminum and zinc and is manufactured in china. just because some of them have "germany" stamped on the bottom does not mean they were manufactured in germany. there is another 2 letter code stamped on them which designates the particular plant in china where they were manufactured.

i have callaham rigs on both my lp's. you do NOT have to put in maple plugs and drill, etc. i have a tutorial here on mlp somewhere. you can use faber steel conversion sets Insert or nswkit for the bridge, and the faber steel locking bridge studs. and altho not shown in callahams site, their abr1's actually have 2 tiny allen heads that allow you to lock the bridge to the posts, if you are so inclined.
 

frankv

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faber is made of aluminum and zinc and is manufactured in china. just because some of them have "germany" stamped on the bottom does not mean they were manufactured in germany. there is another 2 letter code stamped on them which designates the particular plant in china where they were manufactured.
My Farber bridges are steel. No zinc
 

frankv

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i have callaham rigs on both my lp's. you do NOT have to put in maple plugs and drill, etc.
Your info is outdated. You no longer have to drill and use plugs anymore.
 

frankv

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^^And a machine doesn't care what country its in.

The main thing is the hassle of the full abr conversion with a callaham....you need to get maple plugs for the Nashville holes.

The Faber stuff is good. I'd go for the BSW kit. You simply yank the nashville studs out and tap these in. The Faber abr bridge goes in on top.
Faber iNsert Steel bridge Studs - CV Guitars

I went for the BSW kit, which requires slightly more woodwork. The difference in sustain convinced even the skeptics at the shop who couldn't believe their ears when they heard the guitar with the new bridge/studs in place.
Yep. Thats the kit I use. Very easy.
 

politenessman

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Your info is outdated. You no longer have to drill and use plugs anymore.
if you look at my post, that is what i said. i posted a tutorial here on this forum showing that its a drop-in operation. its on tonefreaks sub forum somewhere. i dont know what farber bridges are. if you have a faber bridge, it is made of aluminum and zinc. show me one place on the website that claims that any of their bridges or tailpieces are made of steel. email larry over there and he will gladly tell you that the bridges and tp's are made of a zinc/aluminum alloy that is slightly different than zamak.

and i realize that a machine doesnt care what country it is in. but the people who buy the parts do. and the people that buy the parts care what country the machine is in because it makes a big difference in quality. would you rather have something made on a machine in mogadishu, or something made on the same machine in sheffield?

the faber-germany thing is a sticker. the faber bridge is a casting. the callaham is machined. my callaham bridge weighs around 50 grams, the faber weighed around 36.


IMG_1189 (1600x1200) by politenessman, on Flickr
 


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