Is this enough of a truss rod curve?

[IceGator8]

I'm building a jig to cut the curved truss rod channel. I created this curve by bowing the truss rod and tracing the outline. Is this enough of a curve?

The vertical lines mark frets. Starting from left to right you have the 1st, 11th, and 16th frets.

 

[Ole'Lefty]

You are at the start of a build. If it is not a full bore replica, get a two-way truss-rod from LMII or Stewart-McDonald.I am guessing that you are showing us maybe 1/8th"? I don't know on an electric-more frets clear of the body than I have experience with.mt

 

[IceGator8]

I wrestled with the decision to use a dual action rod or a vintage rod. I decided I need to do a regular truss rod simply because the challenge of cutting one has really captivated me. I've got a sweet jig designed and a bunch of money tied up in the parts to build it. I just need opinions on whether or not I've designed enough curve into into the rod.

To answer your question at the highest point the curve you see is exactly 1/8". The way I've designed the jig the truss rod channel will be exactly 1/2" deep at it's lowest point.

 

[IceGator8]

You are at the start of a build. If it is not a full bore replica, get a two-way truss-rod from LMII or Stewart-McDonald.I am guessing that you are showing us maybe 1/8th"? I don't know on an electric-more frets clear of the body than I have experience with.mt

I'm actually in the middle of the build. The necks are roughed out and the body just needs have the top carved.

 

[BCRGreg]

Looks good. When you install the board, clamp a mild amount of relief in the board with the rod loose, so that when it's static before strings you will have a couple turns on the rod. This will pre stress the rod to keep it from rattling and make for a tighter sounding guitar.

I prefer to do it this way instead of using double acting rods. At total center, they can rattle.

 

[IceGator8]

Thanks Greg. My jig is based on the Scott Lentz guitars jig that I saw in this thread on the TGP forum:

Calling Out to Builders…Favorite Jigs, Templates, Tips & Techniques - Page 5 - The Gear Page

I'm going to post how I built the jig here for the benefit of other members.

 

[BCRGreg]

Let us know when the jig is up!






(much groanage)












I'm here all week, folks, try the waitress and tip the veal......

 

[IceGator8]

The jig is up the news is out
They've finally found me
The renegade who had it made
Retrieved for the bounty.

Sorry, just had to channel my inner Tommy Shaw.

 

[BCRGreg]

Stop.




Now.




.

 

[IceGator8]

Stop.




Now.




.

 

[Nelson674]

...i love that song

 

[IceGator8]

Me too. It's responsible for me wanting to play guitar.

 

[Roman]

I'm building a jig to cut the curved truss rod channel. I created this curve by bowing the truss rod and tracing the outline. Is this enough of a curve?

The vertical lines mark frets. Starting from left to right you have the 1st, 11th, and 16th frets.

I just saw this, it looks good to me. I admire your diligence in your build

 

[IceGator8]

Thanks Roman. Believe it or not you inspired this. I never would have thought to trace the curve of a bent truss rod if you hadn't suggested it in another thread.

 

[Roman]

Glad to help

 

[IceGator8]

Looks good. When you install the board, clamp a mild amount of relief in the board with the rod loose, so that when it's static before strings you will have a couple turns on the rod. This will pre stress the rod to keep it from rattling and make for a tighter sounding guitar.

I prefer to do it this way instead of using double acting rods. At total center, they can rattle.

This brings up another question:

I plan on making the maple fillet match the bottom curve of the channel so that the rod will already be bent a bit. Will doing this accomplish the same thing?

 

[Ole'Lefty]

Greg and Roman are the experts here. I have wrapped the two way with metal tape and dabbed silicone between the elements(first). If the rods are totally neutral then there is a chance of rattle. But Any amount of load on a double done that way silences -in my acoustic experience. G & R, My gut reaction to his question was 3/16th- your comments? Greg needs to tell you how to do filler strip and control pre-load; again in my limited experience, how you fit that strip is a major part of his suggestion. A double loads either direction it is adjusted. Google Hoffman guitars and Mario Proulx-both are master luthiers who have detailed step-by-step including truss rod on their sites-very detailed. Last I knew they did traditional rods.mt( I thought I saw a tutorial of a Johnson build here that showed doing the filler.)

 

[IceGator8]

Greg and Roman are the experts here. I have wrapped the two way with metal tape and dabbed silicone between the elements(first). If the rods are totally neutral then there is a chance of rattle. But Any amount of load on a double done that way silences -in my acoustic experience. G & R, My gut reaction to his question was 3/16th- your comments? Greg needs to tell you how to do filler strip and control pre-load; again in my limited experience, how you fit that strip is a major part of his suggestion. A double loads either direction it is adjusted. Google Hoffman guitars and Mario Proulx-both are master luthiers who have detailed step-by-step including truss rod on their sites-very detailed. Last I knew they did traditional rods.mt( I thought I saw a tutorial of a Johnson build here that showed doing the filler.)

Interesting. I just Googled Hoffman and his method for cutting out the channel is exactly the same as the one I'm using. For some reason the Proulx site didn't work.

 

[The Thruth]

where to buy a counterbore like this:

robert benedetto is using the same like this on video, but where to buy this?
do i have to make it?