Is grain filler needed over a satin finish?

Censport

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I have a Trad Pro V with a satin finish, and I like the color but want it to be glossy like a Standard. StewMac offers a clear grain filler, and I'm wondering if I should use that before spraying on more gloss lacquer?

NGD_02.jpg
 

cmjohnson

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No. Grain filler is already under the satin finish. Grain filler is intended to fill in voids that are much larger than any that would be found on top of that satin finish.

All you should need to do for best results is have your nitro clear coat ready, spray on a light mist coat of lacquer thinner first to wake up the finish and prepare it to melt into the next coat, and then apply the coear coats. (But remove all hardware and things you don't want to paint over, first.)

Some people wouldn't even bother with the flash coat of lacquer thinner. Personally I'd do it because it just helps the new coats take right to the old. Just be sure you don't spray the thinner coat as a wet coat. You would NOT want to risk it running, dripping, or sagging. All you're doing is getting it a little bit damp and active.
 

moreles

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If that's a maple top, it is unlikely to have been filled or to need filling at all. Filling's for open-pored woods, to create a level, smooth surface. Based on the pic, it looks like yours is nicely smooth.
 

fatdaddypreacher

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be sure and clean the top before spraying. remove any film or deposits it has accumulated. naptha works great for it. use clean white cloth and keep turning the cloth and check that it is 'clean' when you're done. do not use lacquer thinner or acetone for this, as it will melt the finish and cause you grief.
 

LtDave32

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As said upthread, you don't need filler.

Wipe it down with naptha, shoot your clear. The clear will soften the previous coat and gel right in.

Three passes around the guitar is one good, wet coat.

Three coats in total ought to do you.

If you plan to wet-sand that finish through all the grits the buff to a mirror finish, then this is a whole 'nuther ball game.

But if we're just shooting clear over the satin hoping for the best natural results, then this is what I would do:



I'd shoot two really good, strong coats (at least three passes around the instrument per coat), let it dry, next day sand it a bit with 600 to level it all out (wet sand with naptha for a lubricant), then shoot the final top coat (again, three passes) over that.

Then I'd call it done.

That's how we'd do it in my shop.
 

LtDave32

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What the naphtha is going to do on the wipe-down is get that surface free of oils and contaminants.

It will actually wick out oils in a fret board and dry it out.

What it's going to do when sanding is to provide a lubricant that helps the sandpaper retain its grit and cutting ability. Soon as that paper gets clogged, it stops cutting. Naphtha will keep the grit doing its job.

You can get a can of it at Home Depot.

Or Wal Mart in the form of camp stove fuel.
 

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