Ideal rate of twist (MLP firearms and shooting thread)

LocoTex

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This ridiculous thing is done. I just installed the Fostech Echo II that arrived today (did the spring mod before installing). I have a Tailhook Mod 1 brace on the way, but functionally it's complete. 3" barrel. Takes Glock 9mm mags.

But...but...it's scary!! I'm triggered! (nyuk, nyuk!)
 

LtDave32

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Nikon is getting out of the firearms optic business?

The last time I checked out optics on Amazon, I couldn't wade through 20 % of the selections without giving up from the sheer amount of choices.

Everybody and their brother in law is producing scopes. And affordable ones at that.

Of course we want quality optics, but so many people are willing to settle for way cheaper. 30-40 bucks gets you a scope.

I don't recall ever seeing such cheap scopes at brick and mortar stores. Maybe Tasco, but they were so bad..

Now people can order all sorts of fancy crap that costs nothing, gives the bells and whistles of illuminated reticles, both red and green, lasers attached to the scopes, etc.

Drops right in their mailbox. No muss, no fuss.

Sure it will fall apart with hard use, but a lot of these guys limit their "hard use" to an hour at the range.

Even in the fine optics field, there's so much competition and new, quality outfits starting up. Tough to compete.
 

Bownse

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I really like my Trijicon over my Vortex Viper for PS but like the MilDot of the Viper for hunting. My brother got a scope that had the magnifed reticle, a red dot, AND iron sights (up top). It seemed a great idea (at the gun show where he bought it). So much so that I was window-shopping the same one. 2nd time to the range (on a .308 M1A) it lost its mind and would never hold zero ever again. A bullet I dodged.

Although I did see a guy with a rifle-scope-round combo (sold as a set to shoot one specific bullet). Crazy 1-shot zero, talked to his phone and spottng scope, send a round in one mode and then it auto-fires when the reticle crosses that same POI again. Crazy-expensive though. I think something like $15k.
 
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cooljuk

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Question for the other Glockstars:

Is it still the case that getting a non-MOS 19 (Gen 5) and milling the slide for an RMR gives a lower profile mount than getting an MOS version (where the optic sits up higher)?

I'm about to do one or the other, so any thoughts appreciated.
 

Dun Ringill

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I own neither one but found this amusing none-the-less!
1574349262661.png
 

Bownse

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Had to drift the rear sight on my new Kimber Stainless Pro Ultra Raptor II. POI was left of POA. First time I shot it, I thought something was wrong with the trigger. Nope. Measures smack-dab in the middle of their published of 4-5 lbs. It was that I spent most of the summer with my bolt gun which has a Timney Calvin Elite trigger @ 1lb 2oz.
 

ehb

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I've only ever needed two scope companies. Leupold and Nikon.

And really, I don't NEED Nikon, but I currently have one on my AR.

When I was younger, I had a GREAT Tasco scope. Made in Japan 3x9 with a lifetime warranty. I sold it on a rifle. Traded it for a guitar, actually. I shouldn't have given up the scope.
I have an ooold Simmons 44Mag scope on my old ass Colt Accurized. I bought the rifle and scope years ago almost brand new from a bud's shop for what he paid for it.... He let me take it to the range. He told me the scope says SImmons but he never believed they built it. When I looked through the glass, I was amazed... Other Simmons, not so impressed, but that particular old 44Mag, very impressed...

You just never know....

Nobody read this: Several years back, just for the pure hell of it, I bought a Crossman scope from Wally and put it on a .22Mag Henry pump. Long story short, I have three of those on .22/.17 variants and one in the safe for another NIB Savage bull barrel rimfire rifle I have yet to put a scope on...

Dicks pissed me off when they stopped doing guns... I regularly would visit our region store some years back... Bought several longs there.... Marked WRONG.... Two were the heavy Lami stock and bull barrel, Accu trig Savages.... .17 and .22... Other longs...

Each time, get to the register with a salesman carrying it, wrong price, salesman verified what it was marked, mgr comes up and says if it was marked at that price, they have to sell it to me at that price, turn the key to edit price to marked, ding ding, mgr says 'now go pull every damn price sign off the long guns and look each up, and saleguy carries it out front and hands it to me laughing.... I laugh too... Every time was the same.... Twice on the Savages... Identical except for caliber....scary accurate...

Two of these... .22 and .17

1574442203310.png
 
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Namelyguitar

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Saturday afternoon is range day for some fun in Pensacola. Taking my Sig P6 and the 1911.
 
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GunMonkeyINTL

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Two .308s and a .300WM. There were 8 of us shooting, and we had a couple spotting scopes behind the line, but a couple of us had mounted optics that were sufficient for spotting for each other.

The silencers provide a fair amount of recoil reduction (comparable to a decent brake), and decent position (linear prone footprint, loaded bipod etc) controls it further. On most shots, you can recover the target in your field-of-view and call your own hits- the steel ringing a second later confirming it.

When you step out to a new distance, and the surround isn’t conducive to showing splash, you ask someone to watch the trace of your bullet and provide correction.

It wasn’t a particularly high round-count day. I was able to build data cards on three rifles, and gather some cold-bore data on all three, in less than 140 rounds total. That included walking it out to 1,000, walking it back in on the dials, and then stepping it right back to 1,000 to confirm.

Full disclosure- one barrel was only 16”, so it went subsonic before 900, so its data card only went to 800.
 

Bownse

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What all do you bring to your .308 to reach out past 750-800 yards? Mine (20" 5R bbl) keep going transonic past that.
 

GunMonkeyINTL

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What all do you bring to your .308 to reach out past 750-800 yards? Mine (20" 5R bbl) keep going transonic past that.
The 20" rifle was technically going transonic at around 800 (subsonic around 1100). The 16" would have been hitting transonic at 725 (subsonic at 975).

I didn't have an issue with the bullets getting squirreley at transonic. They tracked pretty well on the drop chart (once I backfigured the velocity), and wind correction through to subsonic, to within about 2-2.5 MOA.

The longest target was 1000, so I didn't get the 20" to go subsonic (by my calculations). There wasn't a target at 900, but I did get the 16" consistently hitting at 800, and then shot AT the 1000 target. I hit it twice, but not with a level of predictability that I was willing to record the come-up. Somewhere between 800 and 1000, it went from a 1-2 MOA rifle to about 4-5 MOA- so I assume that was the sonic barrier.



Some bullets do better from super-transonic. The 175 SMK is (in my experience) pretty reliable at least to sub. The 168 SMK is, on the other hand, supposedly less reliable at trans.

If trans (not sub) is a real barrier for your rifle/load, maybe try another bullet.
 

GunMonkeyINTL

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Transonic is the velocity range in between where your bullet behaves like a bullet that is traveling at supersonic speed, and one that is traveling at subsonic speed.

The Cliff Notes version:
Subsonic bullets are traveling slow enough that the air in front of them has time to push out of the way. Supersonic bullets are traveling fast enough that the air can’t get out of the way, and has to compress. These two conditions create different aerodynamics in front of and behind the bullet.

At sea level, at one bar, the speed of sound is approximately 1,125 fps. The speed of sound changes with air density (elevation being the biggest driver), humidity, and even chemical makeup.

The ability of air to “get out of the way” of your bullet in time to not be compressed doesn’t exactly align with the speed of sound through that particular air. The transonic velocity range is the band of velocities in which the air around your bullet behaves some like it’s subsonic and some like it’s supersonic. You can roughly think of it as the 200fps above and below the speed of sound in your air. When I shoot near home, that’s around 915 -1315 FPS (With the speed of sound being about 1115- rough numbers.)




If a bullet stays supersonic, its external ballistics is (relatively) easy to predict. Likewise if it stays subsonic. It’s stability changes, though, as it enters the transonic range, and again when it goes subsonic. Some bullet designs and spin rates handle the transition a little better. Some are aerodynamically designed specifically to not lose stability until the more abrupt change into subsonic travel. Those bullets are said to be accurate into the transonic range.
 

THDNUT

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Welp, I took out my Taurus 605 .357 snubby today for the first time. I shot full power .357 158 gr. loads and some .38 Special loads of the same bullet weight.
As expected, it was punishing to the web of my hand with the full power loads. The rubber "Hogue" grips have this ribbing on the back strap that's painful, I had to put a glove on after 3 rounds.

Accuracy was good for a 2" barrel. At 10 yards it punched through one side of a 30# freon tank that was there and left a sizable dent on the opposite side. I can't imagine too many women shooting this revolver with 158 gr. full power loads, maybe with 110 gr. jacketed HP.



 

smk506

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Welp, I took out my Taurus 605 .357 snubby today for the first time. I shot full power .357 158 gr. loads and some .38 Special loads of the same bullet weight.
As expected, it was punishing to the web of my hand with the full power loads. The rubber "Hogue" grips have this ribbing on the back strap that's painful, I had to put a glove on after 3 rounds.

Accuracy was good for a 2" barrel. At 10 yards it punched through one side of a 30# freon tank that was there and left a sizable dent on the opposite side. I can't imagine too many women shooting this revolver with 158 gr. full power loads, maybe with 110 gr. jacketed HP.



I will never in a million years understand why so many people recommend those to women just starting out in the shooting hobby. Even with 38s they can be pretty punishing to someone with smaller/softer hands.

It was probably good advice in some long ago time, but not for some years and especially not today.
 

MSB

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it was night and day with my snubby .357 when I got a grip I could get all 3 fingers on.

as far as recommending them to women... the vast majority of the time when i've dealt with new(er) women and firearms, they gravitate to the revolvers, so its more them getting chosen than recommended.
 




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