HardCore Troubadour
Senior Member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2012
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$2300-$2800 guitar.
This statement is so wrong......... This would indicate that people missed or was somehow compelled to the original Les Paul of the '50s..(there wasn't enough of them to go around for that to happen).... I was there in the seventies playing Norlins.Those Norlins are the guitars mainly responsible for the popularity of reissues.
It was the name of a company that owned Gibson from 1969 to 1987.....later known as the Norlin era.Sorry I have to ask. What the hell is a Norlin?
I've never seen serial numbers buried under a tuning key. Kinda hinky to me.but could be more of Gibson great QC again.Looks legit with nice play wear. Looks like a guitar someone take care of..I'd look at it.
Hi guys, I found a posting for a 1977 Les Paul Custom in red. It’s not local, but it’s a few hours driving distance, so I can pick up in person and lay me hands on it before buying but I’d only make the drive if it’s really worth it. The seller has multiple good reviews on Reverb and seems very professional.
Most important thing, listing says the frets are supposed to be in good working condition, no neck breaks, and it has T-tops. Asking price is $3800. I saw a Norlin era LP custom sell on Guitar Center used today for $3200, so I’m wondering if $3800 is too high?
Also, here’s some pics from the listing. Let me know if anything seems off or concerning. If it looks legit in the pics and the price is good, I’ll do the drive over to see it in person. But wanted to get some thoughts from the community here first.
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Hi guys, I found a posting for a 1977 Les Paul Custom in red. It’s not local, but it’s a few hours driving distance, so I can pick up in person and lay me hands on it before buying but I’d only make the drive if it’s really worth it. The seller has multiple good reviews on Reverb and seems very professional.
Most important thing, listing says the frets are supposed to be in good working condition, no neck breaks, and it has T-tops. Asking price is $3800. I saw a Norlin era LP custom sell on Guitar Center used today for $3200, so I’m wondering if $3800 is too high?
Also, here’s some pics from the listing. Let me know if anything seems off or concerning. If it looks legit in the pics and the price is good, I’ll do the drive over to see it in person. But wanted to get some thoughts from the community here first.
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I have a '78 custom and wouldn't part with it. My advice is go for it (after playing it, of course)Hi guys, I found a posting for a 1977 Les Paul Custom in red. It’s not local, but it’s a few hours driving distance, so I can pick up in person and lay me hands on it before buying but I’d only make the drive if it’s really worth it. The seller has multiple good reviews on Reverb and seems very professional.
Most important thing, listing says the frets are supposed to be in good working condition, no neck breaks, and it has T-tops. Asking price is $3800. I saw a Norlin era LP custom sell on Guitar Center used today for $3200, so I’m wondering if $3800 is too high?
Also, here’s some pics from the listing. Let me know if anything seems off or concerning. If it looks legit in the pics and the price is good, I’ll do the drive over to see it in person. But wanted to get some thoughts from the community here first.
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I've never seen serial numbers buried under a tuning key. Kinda hinky to me.but could be more of Gibson great QC again.
I almost got a 68 RI a few months back but stupidly passed it up due to the neck being thicker. BUT, in hind sight, I could have gotten used to the neck, it still played really well. Is it confirmed the pickups in those are modeled after the T-top? i read some other threads it was pre-top but I wasn't sure.Anything in the vintage reissue guitars are PAF replicas.....or as far as Gibson goes in that direction anyway. (save for the 68 RI.....that has a T-top type pickup)
It would be interesting to know what hard rockers you are referring to - with reference to the 'fantastic heavy tones'. It might help as some might advise you as to what sort of rig they were playing.
Thank you so much, that's reassuring to know it's at least consistent. How do Shaws differ tonally from T-tops? Big difference?The pics you posted.
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Is typical of a T-Top base plate... most are ink stamped with a date. I can’t see one on either pup. Doesn’t mean that they’re not there. Still some are not ink stamped. The patent stamp is good sign... greenish bobbin screws are correct.
Having a single set of pole screw holes also narrows it down.... Later 490 series have two sets of holes. The only probable model are Shaws, which is not a bad switch. This guitar predates Shaws,.. doesn’t mean a swap didn’t occur. Without the covers off its hard to discern T-Tops from Shaws.
Thanks, will definitely try to confirm that. I'll see if the seller might be able to discern it better.I would seriously investigate that serial number for the format (e.g., decal or stamped, # and "Made In USA" below), number of digits (should be 8, and the placement (top center of crown)). It doesn't seem follow what Gibson says it should be. I'm having a difficult time seeing/finding the initial "7" before the "28" in that serial number, especially noting spacing and alignment.---And what's with that second set of stamped numbers? Those look like the correct tuners for a LPC but I've never seen a serial number obscured by a tuner.
See for yourself (maybe the first place to go):
How To Verify Authentic Gibson Serial Numbers
www.gibson.com
Paj
8^)
So, I can't play this particular Norlin custom. BUT I just found on on Guitar Center used I can order and try and return if it's got any issues.Norlin era or current CS model, at these prices I'd want to play it before purchasing. OP, is that a possibility?
Will def keep that in mind thanks.i had a Norlin pancake LP for a couple of years. Heavy, TTop pups, three piece neck, sounded great. It didn't play great - i took it to a local repair shop that i trust and they said the the bridge had 'collapsed' some over time thus changing the relationship between the strings and the fretboard.
They said this was fairly common among Norland Era Gibson's. They told me the bridges and tailpieces were 'pot metal' often and had seen quite a bit of this before. They were able to bend it back to original shape and i used it but no guarantee it wouldn't over time repeat the same issue.
Not a 'deal breaker' maybe, those are pieces that can easily be replaced, but something to be aware of.
Will do, I don't mind replacing parts here and there. I figure that's par for the course going the vintage route.I’ll say what’s posted here very often, There are good and bad guitars from all years. You can’t judge an LP based on the period alone. It kind of goes for any guitar. If specs are a concern to you then do your research to ensure the specs are what you want. Bridges and parts can be replaced fairly easily.
There's not a huge difference,... to my ears Shaws are a bit more clear and chimey.....about the same output....T-tops and Shaws have a lot of love and are desirable.Thank you so much, that's reassuring to know it's at least consistent. How do Shaws differ tonally from T-tops? Big difference?
Your absolutely right amigo.......the problem is the people selling these are holding out for more money for various reasons.That 78 Custom is not worth $3300.00...$2500-$2800 or so, if it is a player.
It looks so legit, i just puked a little in my mouth...Does this one look legit? I may order and try it out.