How to tell if a Gibson Les Paul is fake...

BigAl

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Kølabrennern;851656 said:
I will keep posting these pictures in every thread regarding this matter until as many as possible have seen them. This is most likely what it will look like underneath the back and top veneers:
DSC_5812.jpg


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DSC_5810.jpg


Another discovery I made is that the logo is made out of some kind of pearloid-looking paper, and can be sanded off once you get through the top coats of poly. On mine the top did not have a single ply of veneer, it was more like 3, and under those again were extra veneer patches glued on over the "anomalies". When I was done taking off both top and back veneers, the guitar became around 0,5 cm thinner. The actual wood in the control cavity is so thin you can punch a hole in it with your hand without too much effort!


Sorry for the slight thread necromancy but, I must say, what a beautiful piece of woodwork that is. Nice to see quality woods cobbled together so professionally :lol:

Jeez what a horrid sight.
 

andyhardy

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The angle on the head stock isn't always the same on a real Gibson making it a pain to tell some times.
 

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Oze

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CounterfeitLesPaul1.jpg


CounterfeitLesPaul2.jpg


A recent counterfeit Les Paul... "looks" pretty darned good... next week they'll get the bridge and logo slant right.

This one is for sale by me for $2500.
Old post I know but the green tuners are a telltale sign of Chinese manufacture
 

Oze

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Can somebody PLEASE clarify for me whether or not Gibson LP Bridges screw directly into the body or do they screw into a metal insert in the body(kinda like a FABER).
All my LiJ Lesters screw directly into the body whilst Korean and Chinese built guitars screw the bridge into metal inserts....I came to the conclusion that the Jap guitars must have done this because Gibson did it and all mine are "Lawsuit era"....am right or wrong here?
(I have no Gibbo for comparison as my Trad Plus is on order)
 

EvLectric

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ABR-1's screw directly into the body. Nashville's have machined inserts. Gibson's can have both. But if it looks like an Epi bridge, then it's fake.
 

Oze

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ABR-1's screw directly into the body. Nashville's have machined inserts. Gibson's can have both. But if it looks like an Epi bridge, then it's fake.
Cheers...I asked the question in another thread but your answer is actually polite comparatively:D
 

rockstar232007

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Cheers...I asked the question in another thread but your answer is actually polite comparatively:D
Just to add to Ev's answer.

The ONLY current LPs you will see sporting ABR-1s (posts screwed directly into the wood) are most LP Classics (mainly the early ones) and RIs, because they are "historically" accurate.:thumb:

I'm not exactly sure, but I'm pretty sure the Taditional '60 (basically a RI Classic) has one too?:hmm:
 

-=[Shifty]=-

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Current Gibson USA production models all have Nashville bridges.
The only Gibson USA model I know of that had ABR-1 bridges are the Classics (not sure which years, though).
Custom Shop Historic Reissues have ABR-1 bridges.
Custom Shop Les Paul Customs have Nashville bridges.
 

Armitage

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CounterfeitLesPaul1.jpg


CounterfeitLesPaul2.jpg


A recent counterfeit Les Paul... "looks" pretty darned good... next week they'll get the bridge and logo slant right.

This one is for sale by me for $2500.



Ok, I got an email and couldn't figure out what it was about until I saw this post, when I said "by me" I meant near where I live, not that I had it for sale.
 

Tim91

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Hey do real les paul's have a thin veneer of wood on the headstock?
 

lǎo​wài

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Other quick ways to tell if it's a fake...

Truss rod cover with three screws? It's a fake. Two screws? Take it off. If you need a hex key to adjust the truss rod... It's a fake.

Quickest way to tell is if the bridge posts have slots for a screwdriver.

I was on Jingling Road in Shanghai today looking for a Korg Pitchblack+and saw a huge number of fakes in the stores being represented as genuine. Sad... An ES335 worth maybe 300 US going for 5700 US.

Neck binding should go over the fret edges too. Look for that as well.

**This post has been brought to you by Suntory beer, cheap Chinese wine and Strong VPN.

edit: And Johnny Black
 

Custom53

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This first one is one of the easiest to spot. Unlike Epiphones which vary between MIK and MIC, 99% of Gibson Les Pauls that sport the 2vol/2tone configuration have parallel knobs, if you were to draw a line through them you'd get two parallel lines. The fakes will have knobs that are skewed. If you were to draw a line through them they would intersect at some point in space.

realvfake.jpg

I know about everything you mentioned, and this is a very good lesson to people who really don't know..

But, the very first thing I look at is the volume knob in relation to the tailpiece..
If you draw a straight line across the tailpiece and across the volume knob, on a real Les Paul the line misses the center shaft of the volume knob. On the bell cap type knobs it will just miss the bulk of the knob. Most Fake Les Pauls I see the straight line will hit the center shaft of the volume knob.. Try it out and if you see what I am saying post a pic of both side by side for others to see...
 

Inside Guy

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"Bench Tested, Builder Approved" is an old Gibson Strings and Accessories slogan. It doesnt belong on a guitar. Not sure why the fakers think they belong together.
 

kasu

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Hey do real les paul's have a thin veneer of wood on the headstock?

Im no expert but holly veneer was/is used on some LPs, but black fibre is more common on Gibsies nowadays.
 

kasu

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Heres a couple of pics.

No glued wings on the headstock.
DSC000012.jpg


Some fakes actually have nibs, so nibs cant be used as a 100% sign of the guitar being legit.
DSC00023.jpg


The stripped top, this one was a gold top to start with.
DSC00042.jpg
 

joelc73

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How much weight do you give COA’s as I’m assuming those wouldn’t be too hard to fake?

I’m likely going to buy an R8 via Reverb or EBAY. Not being able to inspect an instrument before buying it makes it more complicated.

Just curious if anyone had an thoughts on validating authenticity from a distance.

Thanks in advance!
 

PierM

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How much weight do you give COA’s as I’m assuming those wouldn’t be too hard to fake?

I’m likely going to buy an R8 via Reverb or EBAY. Not being able to inspect an instrument before buying it makes it more complicated.

Just curious if anyone had an thoughts on validating authenticity from a distance.

Thanks in advance!

You tell it’s a fake from the guitar alone. COA doesnt matter.
 

joelc73

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You tell it’s a fake from the guitar alone. COA doesnt matter.
Thanks. It’s so hard to tell what’s what when you can’t hold it. I feel better when I see pics like this in the listing but I’m sure people have figured out ways to fake this stuff...
72BA8150-FFEF-4DDF-B967-F58A4AFB478B.png
 

PierM

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Thanks. It’s so hard to tell what’s what when you can’t hold it. I feel better when I see pics like this in the listing but I’m sure people have figured out ways to fake this stuff...
View attachment 395891

Isn't that hard, if you know what you are looking at. :)

That's a legit and original COA, guitar as well. It's a 2016 Standard Historic R8.
 

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