How about an SG build??

pshupe

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I found some SG drawing on the internet and a few threads around lately. So I thought I would make up some Fusion models for another vintage Gibby model.

Here are the plans I have.
drawing01.jpg


This modeling was a little beyond me so I enlisted a few hours from ejendres, again, to start a 3d model. This one could be quite slow as it will the the last on my plate to finish up. So this is where we sit. Here is the model Eli completed for me and I can modify this quite easily to finish up the body and toolpaths for my CNC.
Fusion01.JPG


and a rendering, just because it's cool.
Fusion02.JPG


I will probably cut this first body out of Black Walnut as I have a ton of the stuff kicking around and it should make a really nice SG.

Cheers Peter.

PS - Skyjerk - Is this enough build threads for me now?? :dude:
 

Bobby Mahogany

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Nice stuff!
:thumb:

P.S.: If you want to call Skyjerk, use @Skyjerk and he'll be aware you mentioned him.
I can't wait to see this project develop.
:D
 

pshupe

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I have another one up my sleeve, just incase! LOL.

Cheers Peter.
 

ejendres

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That render looks great! I’m excited to model up the rest of the guitar.
 

dcomiskey

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@pshupe, do you have a large size image of the first plans? I'd like to see whatthey have the angles set at compared to what I have.
 

pshupe

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What angles? If you send me a pm with your e-mail address I'll send you the file. I think it is on the german guitar drawing website. Link

I also purchased a set of plans which I think are much better as far as detail but they are also lacking some info. Here is a screen cap of the plans I purchased.
Capture.JPG


You can google these and I think amazon sells them and ALS - Australian Luthier something??

Cheers Peter.
 

dcomiskey

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Sorry, just the neck angle. I’ve seen 2, 3 and 4%. Thanks!
 

pshupe

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The first drawing I have posted says 3 degrees.
Capture2.JPG

The one I purchased does even show it as a dimension. Even the for sale ones can be crap. I'm going to work mine out so the bridge is quite low. I do have a bigsby so I may have to adjust for that. I bought a maestro lyre vibrolo for my firebird and had issues with the bridge being too low. I like low bridges but that vibrolo uses a spring steel mechanism and the strings come out of it quite high. Thanks for jogging my memory.

Cheers Peter.
 

Ripthorn

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I built an SG for a friend (so I have some templates and such). I used a 2.5 degree neck angle for a pigtail wraparound. It worked out very well, so that is what I will do for my personal SG build as long as the bridge allows it.
 

pshupe

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Cool - I'm leaning towards 3 degrees but I will do up some drawings. Remembering to take a look at my bigsby to see how high the strings come off the tremolo. I think it's fine because it under wraps on a bar, AFAI remember.

Cheers Peter.
 

ARandall

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2.5 deg is usually ok.....but it depends on your fretboard dimension as well as fret size too.
 

pshupe

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Yeah I usually fit my neck before I glue on my board and take some dimensions. Once I'm happy with what that is giving me I will size the board and fret and glue on then do some final fitting. As we say these are some of the only dimensions that really matter.

Cheers Peter.
 

cain61

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Yeah I usually fit my neck before I glue on my board and take some dimensions. Once I'm happy with what that is giving me I will size the board and fret and glue on then do some final fitting. As we say these are some of the only dimensions that really matter.

Cheers Peter.
Are you building an SG Custom with three pickups?
 

Danelectro

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I just measured the neck on my 1961 SG Standard at 1.6 deg.



I started to document this guitar a few years ago, but then I got busy and it never happened. I have CAD drawings of a few features. If there are any specific dimensions you need, drop me a PM

 

pshupe

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Hey Cain - I think I'm doing a standard probably a '65, as I think they had a better neck joint. Also I have a friend that is getting a '65 to take some measurements.

Danelectro - thanks for the offer. I might want to make some CAD drawings for the '61 to see the differences between that and the '65. I'll shoot you a pm when I get a change. Thanks again.

Regards Peter.
 

Danelectro

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Danelectro - thanks for the offer. I might want to make some CAD drawings for the '61 to see the differences between that and the '65. I'll shoot you a pm when I get a change. Thanks again.

Regards Peter.
Drop me a PM because I may not see a reply here in the thread.

Also, if you need any plastic, I'm able to make accurate repro parts







 

pshupe

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Will do, Danelectro.

So what's up with the neck join on the '65? I think I am going with that year. I've been doing a little research and find a lot of evidence that shows a little ledge underneath the heel at the neck join. Can someone confirm or deny or otherwise shed some light on this construction? Thanks.
Capture.JPG


Currently this is not shown in my model. Possibly because it is based on an earlier versions. It looks to be an extension of mahogany body.

Cheers Peter.
 

Danelectro

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Will do, Danelectro.

So what's up with the neck join on the '65? I think I am going with that year. I've been doing a little research and find a lot of evidence that shows a little ledge underneath the heel at the neck join. Can someone confirm or deny or otherwise shed some light on this construction? Thanks.
View attachment 338219

Currently this is not shown in my model. Possibly because it is based on an earlier versions. It looks to be an extension of mahogany body.

Cheers Peter.
I don't have a '65 with a heel like that to look at, but I suspect that the stepped area is an extension of the mahogany body. Compare it to the heel on my 1961 which looks much different at a glance, however you can see that there is an extension of the body at the top of the heel. It could be that the '61 was stepped similar to that '65 when the neck was glued on, but then the heel was heavily sanded such that it creates a smooth transition between the neck and the body. On the '65, the heel begins farther down the neck, so the step remained squarish and was not blended.







Although the heel extension looks like a thin piece of wood, I measured the distance from the back plane of the body to the top of the extension at .350" [8.9mm]. The horn bevel that is sanded into the backside of the body reduces the thickness of the extension to roughly 3/16" at the heel.

 
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