Help me pick a kit and mods! Building an amp and combo for my needs

[Randy_Lahey]

So I have several amp heads I bought this year fairly cheap. Mostly Bugera heads but a Hughes and Kettner as well. Oh and a Spark to practice too. I’ll list below what I have.
bugera 333xl, 6262 infinium, t50 infinium, and their 1960 infinium(plexi clone). I still play the 333xl and the 6262 as they are awesome! But LOUD AF! The H&K Tubemiester 18 I’ve retubed and sounds good!

what I want is a combo amp that is a classic point to point build! I can wire, solder etc!!! So watching many videos of fender tweed builds and some marshalll plexus clone builds I’m still confused what I should do.

I play almost exclusively classic/makeup Kiss songs, Motley Crue, 80’s metal, AC/DC and that sort of stuff.
Right now my go to rig is my H&K Tubemiester 18 and pedals(tube screamers, chorus, reverb etc....). I can get the tones I want with some fussing. Played though a 4x12 line6 can with celestion v30’s.

I want something portable to take to a buddies to play along with his drums and eventually band practice.

So what kit build do you recommend given my genre of music and would a 1x12 or 2x12 combo be best? The 1x12 seems appealing due to weight etc! Any kits you know of that allow mods such as effects loop and/or allowing plug in to computer

as much as I like the Bugeras, they are PCB amps as is the H&K. I want the point to point build as I feel it would be more reliable and if I ever gig I want something I can bring to a club, plug into and use.

 

[KStopper65]

Get a 5e3 tweed kit, then mod it to a plexi style from Rob Robinette's website

 

[ARandall]

For mine, I'd go a compact head unit, then add a cab separately. Not only as its a smaller and lighter individual unit to carry, but you can do a modular expansion to however many speakers you want to stick in on top of.


Mojotone have kits....but they are of the more classic amps of the 50's/60's 70's.

Ceriatone have more than a few modded marshall type builds. But that starts to get away from turretboard or eyelet board (there are no true PTP builds AFAIK almost anywhere) for some models due to the complexity of the circuit. And of course the 'non - loud AF' lunchbox versions are all PCB as they need the space afforded by the PCB for it to fit into the small chassis.
Of course the PCB only has the components on it and has decent traces on it, which is just as reliable as a turret/eyelet board. Tubes are in sockets on the chassis