help identifying my greco 1977 (PICS ADDED) UPDATED

vagabond09

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Hello fellow les paulers. I just recently bought an used greco 1977 les paul standard with a serial number starting with a B777***. I am the third owner of this guitar. I've looked at all the 1977 catalogues for greco, but I just can't figure out which model this is. The first owner exchanged the tuners to tulip tuners and the bridge pickup to a gibson. It has a 2 piece plain maple top and pancake mahagony body, with a 3 piece maple neck. The rosewood fretboard is really dark, but from what I know, they used to polish these fretboards to make them look like ebony boards. This is heavy... I expected it to be light because i've tried other 1977-78 grecos but this one is light. It is in tobacco burst. But I can't tell whether this is a eg-500,600,700. I've read the catalogue and the only way I can tell will be the pickup. So is there a way to know from the serial number of the pickup if it is U-2000 or U-1000? Or is there any other way to know which model this is? Any words and knowledge will be highly appreciated. THANK YOU!!

EDIT: PICTURES ADDED!!!!!

ALSO I ADDED A PICTURE OF THE TRUSS ROD.. IS THIS THE SAME AS THE GIBSON TRUSS RODS?




 

reborn old

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All the Maxon inked number tells you is the production date of the pickup.

This is a list of 1980 Greco EG models and pickups they were used with.
1976 model specs may vary slightly.

EG900 PAF DiMarzio
EG800PB U-2000 Maxon
EG800PR U-2000 Maxon
EG800 PU-2 Maxon
EG700 U-2000 Maxon
EG600PB U-1000 Maxon
EG600PR U-1000 Maxon
EG500 U-1000 Maxon
EG500C UD
EF500J U-1000 Maxon
EG500GS UD-DX (P-90)
EG480 UD
EG450 UD

Dimarzios all had stamped brass base plates.
U-3000, U-4000 and PU-2 Maxons generally had pickup model stamped on backs, but there were early exceptions with no stamps.
U-1000, U-2000 and UD pickups just had the inked date code.
You can sometimes tell which pickup it is from resistance values, but you are handicapped by only having the one pickup to compare.

U-2000's have alnico 5 magnets that measure 0 ohms corner to corner.
UD's have ceramic magnets that show infinite resistance corner to corner.
U-1000's can be either Alnico or ceramic.

Here are values provided by owners :

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/other-les-pauls/155804-mij-pickup-data-thread-no-cork-sniffers-6.html#post3149788

... and from doublecut:

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/other-les-pauls/155804-mij-pickup-data-thread-no-cork-sniffers-7.html#post3155618

Posting pics of your pickup, front + back of the guitar, and neck pickup cavity may help if all else fails.
 

vagabond09

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All the Maxon number tells you is the production date of the pickup.


EG800PB U-2000 Maxon
EG800PR U-2000 Maxon
EG600PB U-1000 Maxon
EG600PR U-1000 Maxon

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/other-les-pauls/155804-mij-pickup-data-thread-no-cork-sniffers-7.html#post3155618

Posting pics of your pickup, front + back of the guitar, and neck pickup cavity may help if all else fails.
Thank you very much for the information. But I was just wondering what does the PB and PR mean?
 

jacco

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It wil be either an EG-700 or EG-800. Those were the only ones offered in tobacco during 1977.
 

vagabond09

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It wil be either an EG-700 or EG-800. Those were the only ones offered in tobacco during 1977.
Its not really the tobacco burst where the outer color is black and inside is yellow. It is more like a brownish red burst.. kind of a mix of cherry burst but a bit darker and browner. I will upload a picture later.

I forgot to mention that it has fret edge binding. Do the higher models only have this?
 

jacco

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P stands for the 3 pickup model.
B = black
R = red sunburst
 

vagabond09

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i uploaded some pics of the guitar. I don't have the tools to open up the pickup cavity, so I will have to wait until the weekends to really see the instead. Thats when I plan on going to the repair shop and get a full setup. Also, as you can see, the fretboard inlays on the 3rd and 5th frets are pretty worn and yellowish in color. The first and the previous owners only played chords so the 1st-5th frets are worn, but the rest are almost 80-90% in life. But I want to even out the color on the inlay.. is there a way to make the other inlays as dirty or yellowish as the 3rd and 5th inlay?
 

reborn old

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Have you already tried just cleaning the 1st two fret markers with glass or kitchen cleaner on a paper towel, if a uniform look is all you're after ? Avoid using solvent cleaners like acetone or paint thinner.
If cleaners fail, 1200 grit paper might restore original marker color.

Aging other frets to make them match the first two would be a much tougher project.
 


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