Hand plane jointer less than $100?

[kfowler8]

Looking at some of these no 7 hand plane jointers. Man they can be expensive. For an entry level, is here a decent one for less than $100? Used brand maybe? I've seen some older Stanley modes on eBay.

 

[Barnaby]

You can find them on eBay and elsewhere for sure, although I suspect old tool shops and similar would be better. My #6 was less than $100 (but the postage was horrible to Japan). The only thing is that you probably need to be prepared to restore it. This is not particularly difficult, but is hard work. Here's a thread where I do exactly that (and so do some other, much more talented people).

 

[kfowler8]

Thanks Barnaby I remember now that thread. Are there certain things to look for or stay away from?

 

[Barnaby]

Thanks Barnaby I remember now that thread. Are there certain things to look for or stay away from?

Gosh...um...the short answer is 'yes', and the long answer is 'maybe too many to list'.

Bottom line (in my opinion) is that you should look for a plane where the sole is not pitted badly with rust (surface rust is OK) and the mouth is unchipped. It can always be flattened if a little warped or scratched, but chips need special tools and tons of time to repair.

Blades, handles, chipbreakers...these can all be fixed up more easily or simply replaced, but the sole and mouth are crucial. Here's one on eBay that looks OK - but buying anything like this is always a bit of a risk! Here's another...

 

[poro78]

Stay away from anything that has plastic parts.

 

[Ole'Lefty]

Unless you are going to joint things much larger than guitar components, don't fixate on a 7 or 8. My favorite jointer for the stuff we see is a Stanley Bedrock 606 "flatside. Mine is completely "renewed" but is not perfectly flat. I am a bit of a heathen because I will say, "That is flat enough." Regular 6's usually go for less, a bit the influence of a Stanley expert(and he, Patrick Leach, is expert.) Google "Blood and Gore." Also, Stanley may be the most famous name in vintage quality planes but there are other smaller scale brands that are just as good. I have a mix of Bedrocks,Stanley/Bailey, Millers Falls, and a small variety of Lie Nielsen and Veritas planes. I'll add the photo of many of my planes that I frequently have shown when handplanes come up. Not shown is a Bedrock 608 Flatside that I have-not renewed but with aftermarket blade and capiron that I have not needed. It was not a cheap acquisition, even though it is not pretty-everything that matters is there.

I have been doing very good honing of a variety of blades since I was 7 or 8.I was taught to use a plane properly at about the same time. I never quite lost touch with that heritage even at the present power tool level I have.

Let me throw this out to you as gospel-A properly setup and sharpened plane can control cuts to .002 inch--two-thousanths of an inch. I have a couple setup to .001 cuts.

 

[H.E.L.Shane]

I agree with lefty in that if you are only going to have ONE good hand plane..

a 7 or an 8 would not be my first choice..

HOWEVER... I have two 7's... OLD ones.. and spent as much getting them tuned as i did on the planes themselvs...

I mostly use my 7's for final truing of the over the body shim on a neckthrugh guitar.. the joint has to be perfectly in plane with the neck or you'll het a fretboard hump.. and the 7's perfect for the job! (and 8 would be nice too, but i haven't found one at a decent price!)

Here's the deal on planes... either buy a NEW one and figure paying sereral hundred dollars for it.. (if its a new plane and costs less than $100.. its probably junk)

or buy an OLD one and have it sharpened and trued.. (but your still going to end up with $1-200 at least)

For example.. A LieNielson #7 is as good or better than my stanley-bailey.. but its $425 bucks!! (i paid that for my jointer machine BTW)
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=7


My two favorite tools in the shop are both older than my grandfather!!!!

 

[kfowler8]

Unless you are going to joint things much larger than guitar components, don't fixate on a 7 or 8. My favorite jointer for the stuff we see is a Stanley Bedrock 606 "flatside. Mine is completely "renewed" but is not perfectly flat. I am a bit of a heathen because I will say, "That is flat enough." Regular 6's usually go for less, a bit the influence of a Stanley expert(and he, Patrick Leach, is expert.) Google "Blood and Gore." Also, Stanley may be the most famous name in vintage quality planes but there are other smaller scale brands that are just as good. I have a mix of Bedrocks,Stanley/Bailey, Millers Falls, and a small variety of Lie Nielsen and Veritas planes. I'll add the photo of many of my planes that I frequently have shown when handplanes come up. Not shown is a Bedrock 608 Flatside that I have-not renewed but with aftermarket blade and capiron that I have not needed. It was not a cheap acquisition, even though it is not pretty-everything that matters is there.

I have been doing very good honing of a variety of blades since I was 7 or 8.I was taught to use a plane properly at about the same time. I never quite lost touch with that heritage even at the present power tool level I have.

Let me throw this out to you as gospel-A properly setup and sharpened plane can control cuts to .002 inch--two-thousanths of an inch. I have a couple setup to .001 cuts.

That's some serious planeage right there!!!!

 

[Ole'Lefty]

And, bench planes is one other rare place where tools were not designed to scare off we sinister-handed people. When you get into rabbeting planes the dexters show up again. It is one set of tools that I can swap sides during use and be comfortable. Well, as you know, we adapt in many cases. I flunked "cutting-out" in first grade and on, even after the school morons of the time quit trying to change me (circa 1952 A.D.).

 

[Brian I]

Is it weird that I joint with a low angle smoothing plane?

There are a lot of really good deals to be had at garage sales, estate sales, antique stores, and even ebay if you're willing to do some restoration. IMHO, nothing is more satisfying than taking a rusty POS and turning it into the high end tool it once was.

 

[Ole'Lefty]

Most any well-sharpened bench plane above a #3 will serve to joint. So, it is not woerd. If you look at my post with pics you see the shooting board with a #9 box miter plane. More often, shooting boards are used to fine tune end grain pieces. Supposedly, that calls for low angle. But edge quality and technique really have more effect on smooth planing. I have another ugly shooting board for acoustic size joints and often grab an unusual choice-manufacturer and type. I grab a Lie-Nielsen 5 1/4 that I had made with premium coco (#9 has that too and threaded for the side handle on both sides and you can see this rig is set up right-handed). The only handplane of Dad's I have left is his Type 19 5 1/4, now with Hock steel; so I show it and have memorialized his in the working world with as premium a bedrock-style bench plane as one can buy-Dad was as premium as a Dad could get. Before the exciting memorial purchase that junior jack jointed a lot of edges, even with the original steel. I do like the type #17-19, the WWII years and just post. Thicker castings and a few unique economy twists that harm it not at all-and they sell for less because of those very characteristics like black painted tote and knob, bakelite adjuster wheel. My premium smoother is the dull blue toward the left side in back-it is a 50's vintage Record 4.5 with an M2 Andrews iron from Aussie Paul Andrews -took forever to hone to my standards, but it refreshes with stropping for a long time before return to the Shaptons.

If you look closely you can see the tote of an L-N #1-unused. I donated it to a Christmas charity auction last year on Woodnet. Then there is a # 2 which I use like a block plane if my hands are giving me fits. I need to seriously trim down the herd.

 

[vista]

Decent #5s can be found reasonably and make a great all round tool. At 14 " they are more than adequate for anything on a guitar. This is my first choice for a bench plane. Also a lot easier to true the sole and just for managing. A #7, while an awesome plane is a little cumbersome to use.
With approxiametely 60 planes in my collection I would still like to add a #52 chute plane. Any one have one for sale or trade?

Brian

 

[vista]

I agree with lefty in that if you are only going to have ONE good hand plane..

a 7 or an 8 would not be my first choice..


My two favorite tools in the shop are both older than my grandfather!!!!

I dont know why I there are not more people using the drawknife. I can rough out a neck in under half an hour with a sharp drawknife. Yours looks like the twin brother to mine. Since owning a nice long bed joiner, sadly, I rarely reach for the #7.

Brian

 

[emoney]

Just wanted to point out that here in the 21st century, there are jointers now that are
actually powered by electric motors. Yep, most even have at least 3 blades, some quite
a bit more than that. And, they do a lot of the work for you.

Just sayin'........

 

[vista]

Just wanted to point out that here in the 21st century, there are jointers now that are
actually powered by electric motors. Yep, most even have at least 3 blades, some quite
a bit more than that. And, they do a lot of the work for you.

Just sayin'........

Yeah right, what next electric guitars? some one even tried to tell me about some kind of electrical mail. Shocking too say the least!
but seriously, the satisfaction of the feel of a sharp plane and the wisp of a ribbon of wood is worth the time it takes to set up a plane.
brian

 

[Brian I]

Just wanted to point out that here in the 21st century, there are jointers now that are
actually powered by electric motors. Yep, most even have at least 3 blades, some quite
a bit more than that. And, they do a lot of the work for you.

Just sayin'........

Yes, but those electric jointers don't produce the same quality glue joint a well honed plane does

 

[jkkkjkhk]

Most of what I see here is people saying to find old used ones and fix them up. Other than $$ reasons why would someone want an older tool when a brand new one can be had? Serious question too. If looking new what's a good planer to look at? I'm looking on google and not a lot of info that I can find. I keep seeing the brand stanley but looking around they seem to be going for only $100 an under. Is that average price for one?

Sorry to steal your thread OP

 

[vista]

The best bang for the buck will be an old Stanley or a bailey,though millers falls, union,Sargent and many others all made good tools. garage sales and flea markets are usually a good source. In my experience generally the older the better. Prewar era is pretty good. Since the early 70's Stanley has had the bulk of their planes made in scheffield, England. I would stay away from the latest version of Stanley's more popular planes as they have not received good review.of course if money is no object buy lie-Nelson or veritas. I recall recently an article in fine woodworking on bench planes

Good hunting
Brian

 

[Brian I]

Most of what I see here is people saying to find old used ones and fix them up. Other than $$ reasons why would someone want an older tool when a brand new one can be had?

It's really just financial reasons. You can buy a lie nielsen or a Veritas that is just as good, if not better than the original, pre war stanley planes many are based on.

 

[jkkkjkhk]

thanks, yeah those are a nice bit of cash but I'm sure they're totally worth it.