For my two cents, the scotch brite idea is where it's at. I prefer the 3M pads. They have grit ratings like sand paper.
If you're sure you're into this plan, here's how I would do it.
Check out this video. It's me working on a butcher block table.
At 8 mins I start talking about the 3M pads and the grits. On your guitar try the lightest (white I believe) first. *Lightly* try that in the area you want to relic. You can always do more, but you can't undo too much. If the white isn't getting enough removed for you, go up in coarseness. Once you get the finish removed to the point to you want, you need to sand/polish with those pads from coarse to to fine. In that video watch what I'm saying about the perpendicular directions, then polish in circular motion. After those pads, I'd get a set of 3M polishing papers and go through the coarse to fine wet finish/polish process. Basically get the seam from the exposed wood area to the finished nitro smooth and clean.
Once you get all the way through the papers and coarse to fine (use some polishing compound and meguiar's after all of that), the whole area is going to be really shiny. At that point, then get on to continuing to play it. It'll scuff, 'satinize' , etc... on it's own from there. The exposed wood area will also continue to grow in size after that point naturally from your playing.
Just my two cents here, but as many others have said - just play it and let it do its own thing. For every one “good” relic job that I’ve seen, there be been 50 terrible ones where the guitar just looks awful from someone trying to artificially sped up the process. I’d just play it and enjoy the journey - the well loved-look will show itself soon enough