- Aug 1, 2015
- Reaction score
Subject matter also lending a hand on a good photo:
Good point with regard to image orientation. The following photo was originally taken horizontally, but I've posted it vertically on a few occasions, just to give a different perspective:Shadows - they can be used to draw the eye to points of interest. Also play around with image orientation, sometimes the image looks better with a changed perspective. This picture was originally upright on a stand, it was rotated 90 degrees.
Assume any lens produces some kind of distortion of its own, and software treatment will raise grain while enhancing something else.What is the best way to shoot the entire guitar and minimize the lens distortion and perspective issues?
I have a Nikon D3300 and I've had decent results using a 55-200mm zoom and shooting from fairly far back and zoomed in. then I use camera raw to remove the distortion
and dick around with other details like exposure, contrast, and a crap-load of other things you can tweak in camera raw
If I use my 50mm and shoot from much closer I get perspective issues like when you can see the top edge of the body and the bottom edge of the headstock
(if that makes sense)
Its not perfect, but it looks pretty good.
Only issue then is the image starts to look pretty grainy....
I end up with this, which looks pretty good, but its not as good as I'd like. Particularly the fact that body is in pretty sharp focus, but the headstock is not.
Obviously this is an unfinished build, but I like to take progress shots as well as the finished guitars
Have you ever tried using HDRI as a background for your renders? Then you do not have to worry about reflecting nothing. I used to do a lot of architectural renders and this is a common way of really livening up something that is really sitting alone in space.I was just thinking about this thread when I was doing my last run of renders, and it struck me that there's a big difference between the two!
In photography you want to keep all your light temps the same and avoid stray reflections - whereas I find if you do this with renders the image ends up looking too sterile and computer-generated!
I'm not the best at rendering by any means, bit I prefer to use a natural lightbox and if reflections are too distracting I might adjust the F-Stop to put them out of focus. The problem is, rendering with a plain light box it isn't always obvious reflective surfaces are really shiny or if they're just black, white or grey. That doesn't seem to be such a problem with real photography.
Here are some renders for reference just in case you're interested! Please forgive the texture mapping continuity issues