Grainfiller?

marksoundguitars

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What do you guys use for grainfiller?

I've done a bunch of F style guitars, used several different grain fillers, and never been satisfied with any of them. I'm new to the LP side of things, so I want to get it right.

After re-reading Gil Yaron's thread on that other forum it got me thinking about grainfillers again. So I decided to try what he did to see if it would work for me.

I bought some 4F pumice, boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits, and some dark red mahogany aniline powder. Today I mixed up a little in a small plastic cup and did a test board to see what it looked like.

uJZFLvYm.jpg


It looked good to me, so I jumped in with both feet.

I brushed it on like I'd seen in the Gibson tour videos, waited a few minutes, then rubbed off the excess with cheesecloth. There was enough left in that batch that after the first round dried I did another one for good measure. It looks good, the color is light enough that I can darken it with toner if it needs it, and hopefully all the open pores are filled.

yRSxXENl.jpg


Right now it feels gritty, so after giving it some time to dry I'll wipe it down with dry cheesecloth and shoot some sealer.

If this works, it's the easiest grainfill I've ever done.

Hoping for some tips and tricks, to make this one better than the last.
 

B. Howard

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I currently use UV cured pore filler. It's the best thing out there and by far the easiest. Wipes on like honey, hiy iy with the light and sand. That's it, done! I have tried everything over the years on all types of wood. Pumice & shellac, paste filler, epoxies, drywall compound, sprayed polyesters.....all work. Some better than others depending on what you are putting over them.

The stuff you see in the gibson videos is a traditional oil based paste pore filler designed to work with a nitro system. They and martin are about the last souls on earth that still use that in a factory setting.

I think your mix will continue to shrink back quite a bit over time as boiled linseed oil takes a good while to completely dry. I can also see scratches left in the wood from rubbing off the pumice.....these may light up very bright after you spray your clear. Usually not to be fully noticed until buffing. Also if the oil is not completely dried your pores will likely turn hazy or your finish may fisheye.
 

Open_Book

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The home-brew was nice,.........AFAIK Gil went to using Mohawk - which is what someone shipped him.
 

pshupe

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You have to be careful when you are wiping off the grain filler. Make sure to wipe across the grain because if you don't you can pull the grain filler out of the pores. I have heard good things about egg whites. It seems you just sand it in with a light grit sand paper and make a slurry that fills the grain.

Regards Peter.
 

TheX

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I'm an AquaCoat user.
 

marksoundguitars

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I'm happy to report that the homebrew grainfiller worked. I'll adjust the proportions next time, but I'm pretty happy with the results.

The thing is, up til now I haven't found a grainfiller I was 100% happy with. I've used Bartley's, Famowood, Timbermate, drywall mud, and a few other things, depending on the project.

For this type of project, it looks like this stuff is going to work for me.

Others' mileage will vary. :)
 

timgman

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I have had good luck with tinted drywall filler.:)

I heard people dye this black and have a good experience.. it sands easy and is easy to tint. Best yet in small area's it's inherently designed to cover quickly and not shrink.
hmm,
 

The Ballzz

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I might be mistaken here, but I think that I've read about folks using Mohawk's "EZ-Vinyl Sealer" as their grain filler, effectively condensing two operations/steps into one. Not sure if it could be colored/tinted or not.
Just A Thought,
Gene
 

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