Fretboard width (angle)

[andy007]

As you move down the fretboard from the nut to the 22nd fret, the fretboard gets wider. Does anybody know what that angle is?

 

[BPW666]

Do you want to know what is called, or a numerical value? The actual value varies from guitar to guitar, it's more or less dictated by the combination of, nut width (typically around 43mm for a modern 6 string electric), scale length and bridge type (trems tend to have a wider spacing than fixed bridges). Your best bet is to measure the specific guitar and make a scale or beter yet 1:1 drawing of the nut to bridge area. Remember you need a mm or two either side of the strings, that's included in the 43mm for a nut but needs to be added to the e to e spacing of the bridge.

Are you building from scratch or working with a pre existing guitar?

 

[Skyjerk]

As you move down the fretboard from the nut to the 22nd fret, the fretboard gets wider. Does anybody know what that angle is?

there is no set angle. Its based on where the E strings are.
Where the E strings are and their angle in relation to each other changes depending on scale length, and the nut and bridge string spacing.

I make my fretboards so that there is a 1/8" gap between the outside strings and the edge of the fretboard

 

[andy007]

I'll buy the Bartlett plans and calculate based on the dimensions. My old template has degraded and I need to make a new one. If MDF gets wet it distorts and is ruined.

 

[Tone deaf]

I'll buy the Bartlett plans and calculate based on the dimensions. My old template has degraded and I need to make a new one. If MDF gets wet it distorts and is ruined.

Take the measurements straight off the guitar. It is a trapezoid. Math is cool...

PM me the measurements and I'll calculate all the angles for you.

 

[andy007]

I can't get that info until this weekend. I'm in a boring conference call at work right now. I'm reading mylespaul posts instead of paying attention.

 

[Tone deaf]

I used to have a great adjustable taper jig for my table saw. I will have to build another one, one of these days. I think I got the concept from Norm on the Yankee Workshop (or whatever his show was called).

 

[tabascom16]

A little bit of trig. I think the nut is 1.685" nominal. At 23rd fret it may something like 2.35"? 18" between the two distances. Subtract the two widths to get 0.665". Then divide that by 2 to get 0.333. Then you need to figure out if you need to use sine, cosine or tangent. In this case it is the tangent function (opposite/adjacent). The opposite side of the triangle would be the 0.333" and the adjacent would be roughly 18" if using the 23rd fret spot. 0.333/18 = 0.0185. You would then need to use the inverse tangent function on a calculator to get the angle of approximately 1.059 degrees.

 

[Spotcheck Billy]

A little bit of trig. I think the nut is 1.685" nominal. At 23rd fret it may something like 2.35"? 18" between the two distances. Subtract the two widths to get 0.665". Then divide that by 2 to get 0.333. Then you need to figure out if you need to use sine, cosine or tangent. In this case it is the tangent function (opposite/adjacent). The opposite side of the triangle would be the 0.333" and the adjacent would be roughly 18" if using the 23rd fret spot. 0.333/18 = 0.0185. You would then need to use the inverse tangent function on a calculator to get the angle of approximately 1.059 degrees.

Hey, tabascom, we are trying to stick with English here.

 

[tabascom16]

Basic "English" to my engineering brain. I tried to translate! Anyways, I forgot a digit that threw off the calculations. The 23rd fret is about 2.235" on some templates I have. This would make the angle about 0.875 degrees.

 

[fatdaddypreacher]

well, you're probably right, but i came up with .8749998, but then again, i was doing it in my head.

 

[Pete M]

If you are using Bartlett's plans (or standard Les Paul measurements) you take the nut width, the width at the fretboard end, the full length on the fretboard then join the dots. You can draw it out in 2 mins, it's not rocket surgery.

 

[pshupe]

I am also a little perplexed by the question. You do not need the angle. There are 3 dimensions you need. The nut width, width at the other end of the board, and the distance from the nut to the other end of the board. Then you need a ruler and cut along those 4 lines. Am I missing something here. Why would you need the angle?

Regards Peter.

 

[Skyjerk]

A little bit of trig. I think the nut is 1.685" nominal. At 23rd fret it may something like 2.35"? 18" between the two distances. Subtract the two widths to get 0.665". Then divide that by 2 to get 0.333. Then you need to figure out if you need to use sine, cosine or tangent. In this case it is the tangent function (opposite/adjacent). The opposite side of the triangle would be the 0.333" and the adjacent would be roughly 18" if using the 23rd fret spot. 0.333/18 = 0.0185. You would then need to use the inverse tangent function on a calculator to get the angle of approximately 1.059 degrees.

You could do all this math (which is impressive, BTW. I dont know trig) but to what end?

This isnt rocket science

I've built 17 guitars. 12 were original designs, 4 were Strat style, one was LP style. Not once have I used any trig, nor have I needed to know the precise angle of the fretboard taper.

 

[Freddy G]

I am also a little perplexed by the question. You do not need the angle. There are 3 dimensions you need. The nut width, width at the other end of the board, and the distance from the nut to the other end of the board. Then you need a ruler and cut along those 4 lines. Am I missing something here. Why would you need the angle?

Regards Peter.

And also the string spread at the bridge.

 

[cmjohnson]

You would want the angular information if you were to have your templates CNC machined by your friendly local machine shop.

Or if you are using CNC to cut neck mortises that are done PRS style, which are full fingerboard width including the taper.

 

[pshupe]

You would want the angular information if you were to have your templates CNC machined by your friendly local machine shop.

Or if you are using CNC to cut neck mortises that are done PRS style, which are full fingerboard width including the taper.

I CNC a lot and also Laser cut stainless steel templates. All I want is a CAD file with one dimension. Like this -

This gives me the shape and one dimension so I can be assured the scale is correct. I've been building stuff for about 40 years and I almost never use an angle. You can normally discribe any object with straight dimensions. Like a fret board.

I'm a CAD monkey by trade so maybe I am biased about creating drawings but it is the simplest way to "not" screw up $100s of dollars of exotic wood. IMHO! ;-)

Cheers Peter.

 

[cmjohnson]

For me, the simplest way to not screw up exotic wood is to pick up the phone and order my fingerboards from my supplier, inlaid, radiused, slotted, and profiled to my specifications. If they screw it up, they eat it, not me.

I do have a neck and mortise tapering fixture I use on my manual mill. I can't tell you what the degrees of taper are but it's right.