Explorer neck angle ?

pwhite

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Does the body on an Explorer have a neck angle on it like the les paul? if not how does the fretboard meet the body? Is the neck just angled and there is a gap

 

PoorMan

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It is angled...to what degree I do not know.

I have an MIJ Edwards Explorer I can measure if you are interested.
 

SG Lou

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Does the body on an Explorer have a neck angle on it like the les paul? if not how does the fretboard meet the body? Is the neck just angled and there is a gap

I'm guessing here but i'll bet the angle is no more then an SG's neck angle,
2.5 - 3.0 degrees.
The base of the mortise is routed out at the angle like on a LP, the tenon on the neck is at 90 degrees aka Flat. The fingerboard dosen't have gap. A filler piece is cut to match the neck angle and glued to the back of the FB to fill in the gap.
 

eilonudi

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I have checked for you the angle with my 07 explorer and my iphone and the angle is 3.3 digrees
 

eshuffle

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My explorer build was 2.5 at the 20th fret.
 

pwhite

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I was thinking 2.5 for the neck mortise in the body, but still unsure about the neck to body gap. Lou is that the way the SG is, the top of the body has a gap with filler strips and if so what would you suggest as filler, same material as body. Here I blew it up a little.
 

SG Lou

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I was thinking 2.5 for the neck mortise in the body, but still unsure about the neck to body gap. Lou is that the way the SG is, the top of the body has a gap with filler strips and if so what would you suggest as filler, same material as body. Here I blew it up a little.
If memory serves me correctly, early to mid 70's was the time they put the
filler piece in. Everyone that I have seen was always a light colored wood on the opaque painted SG, transparent colored ones used the same wood , Mahogany or Walnut.

SG's from 61 thru mid 66 used what is commonly referred to as a Box Joint.


1961


1962


1963


1965


Check out my Walnut SG build, I explain how the Box Joint is done!

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luthiers-corner/63388-black-walnut-sg-build.html

From mid 66 on through the present with the exception of the 61 RI and the Custom Shop pieces used this style joint know as Mortise and Tenon

1966



1970


Explores and V's used the Mortise and Tenon style joint from day one.

With a mortise and tenon syle joint the top of the body is ramped to match the neck angle as on a LP so the Fingerboard sits flat on the top of the body and no filler piece is needed. On the picture below the face of the mortise is ramped to match the neck angle. You can clearly see the machined area.





I have seen this on V's so I don't see why you can't do it on an Explorer, depending on how much of the FB extends onto the body past the neck/body joint. Do a "search" for Flying V build here on the forum, I do believe we got a couple that show the neck joint in great detail.
 

Rhubarb Red

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On a 58 Explorer, the neck joint is just like the picture Lou posted above of one of his SGs and he's correct in saying there's a "ramp" between the end of the neck pickup ring to the end of the body (the ramp angle corresponding with the neck angle) and the bottom of the fingerboard end sits on this when the neck tenon is pushed into the mortise.

As usual, how they actually did it in Kalamazoo (and Fullerton) back in the day is a lot more straightforward than we assume. :)
 

pwhite

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So would you feather that mortise down some, otherwise the binding would set below the body, correct? Also I have been thinking about finishes, has Gibson ever made a goldtop explorer I know they did a copper?
 

pwhite

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Took some serious searching but finally found it. Thanks for the help fellows

 

DanielDeGregoriis

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Took some serious searching but finally found it. Thanks for the help fellows

It's done the same way on the Flying V's... I noticed this when I saw that the pickguard of my V is slightly bent.

It looks exactly the same as an uncarved LP-top, with only the neck- and pickup plane present:



Ofcourse the neck angle on the v isn't that severe.
 

peterhbyrne

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help! should i set my tenon depth flush with my body mortise at the end of the tenon or where the tenon meets the body or split it in the middle and ramp down the body above the neck p.u. and sand down the bit of tenon below neck p.u. ? does this question make sense or maybe I'm overthinking it? it's my first build. it's a 58 v with long tenon and the curved heel not the step. any pointers or help is much appreciated.
 

pwhite

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I ened up cutting my tenon straight or square on my neck and angled the mortise in the body. Then angled the top of my explorer to make the fretboard sit flat on the body just like the picture above. I don't know about the V body but the explorer pickguard is bent around the front of the neck pickup where the body is angled. Are you doing the fretboard glue up before or after the neck is set?
 




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