ExNihilo Vintage Burst Build

[marijnsloth]

im about to build 4 flametops and this was my go to site. damn wanted those pics.

The files received too much traffic, they'll be back up after the limit passes. Don't know for sure what the timeframe is, but I'm guessing a month.

 

[todd4946]

Sorry if I missed it in the thread, but I didn't see how you cut the 4 deg. neck angle into the neck mortise (or on the heel). Did you use your box/hinge jig for the mortise? Thanks!

 

[Shandog]

Sorry if I missed it in the thread, but I didn't see how you cut the 4 deg. neck angle into the neck mortise (or on the heel). Did you use your box/hinge jig for the mortise? Thanks!

Use the mortise template set on the 4 degree angle that's already on the body. If I remember correctly he used 2 tiny finishing nails on each side to hold it in place. The holes get covered by the fret board later You'll also have to use clamps and some scraps underneath to stabilize the template against the body.

BTW... What happened to the Bartlett LP build sticky thread?

 

[todd4946]

Thanks for the reply. I thought he routed the neck plane after the mortise and contours. Maybe I missed that bit, but that would work (route neck plane on body, then mortise, then contours). Thanks again

 

[todd4946]

Woops, i stand corrected. you are of course correct - i went back and checked and the neck plane was routed first.

 

[Shandog]

Neck plane/ pickup plane/ neck mortise/ pickup routes.

Remember that the pickup routes are still follow the neck plane....but lay where you routed the body know as the "pickup plane".

 

[todd4946]

Thanks again Shandog. Do you (or does anyone) know why the control cavity is routed at an angle? (Pg. 9) Is this required to seat the pots perpendicular to the carve and/or to make the pot holes perfect circles? I'd never noticed this detail before.

 

[Stephmon]

The control cavity angle levels the clearance between the pots and the carve. It doesn't impact the shaft holes, as they are perpendicular to the pre-carve plane, rather than the carve.

 

[todd4946]

Ah, I get it now, Thanks!

 

[gplayer]

how could i get those updated carve templates?

I don't know if this is the way the carve template is supossed to look now or if someone else has posted the updated version already, anyways this is the one I'll be using if I can't find an updated version.

 

[ExNihilo]

Yes, that is correct.

 

[RobStark]

It is different every time I do it. I adjust the height of the bit and the angle of the cut by trial and error until I see that the router will start cutting at the end of the fret board and stop cutting just before the bridge.

Can someone please help me understand? I keep hearing that you start your pickup plane where the fretboard ends but how do you know where the fretboard will end exactly as this stage in the build? I mean, sure I know that the fretboard meets the body around the 16th fret, but just placing the fretboard on the guitar at the 16th fret can't be all that accurate of a measurement right? How is is that one determines where EXACTLY the fretboard will end on the body? Do you have to have the neck and fingerboard finished at this stage in order to determine where to start your pickup plane????

Thanks

 

[pshupe]

You should know the length of your fret board and you know the dimension from the nut to the 16th fret. Therefore you know the dimension from the edge of the body to where your fret board ends. Just mark a pencil line where that is and use the quote you included.

Cheers Peter.

 

[emoney]

The key here is "around" I think. Sure, it might be off a 1/16th, even as much as an 1/8",
but that much won't affect your p'up plane. Do as Peter suggested and measure after the
16th fret and draw a line. Start there and go backwards until it no longer touches the body,
which is usually right before the bridge/tailpiece. If your router still wants to dig in all the
way to the bottom of the body, the strap button end, then you're putting too much angle
in this plane. Mine usually work out around 1.2-1.4 degrees..ish.

 

[ExNihilo]

but just placing the fretboard on the guitar at the 16th fret can't be all that accurate of a measurement right?

It's accurate enough. As long as you don't start the pickup plane underneath your fret board, you are OK. 1/16th-1/8th inch give or take is fine.

Do you have to have the neck and fingerboard finished at this stage in order to determine where to start your pickup plane????

You could also use your plans (Bartlett, StewMac, Catto etc.)

 

[nuance97]

Yes to the above. You just need a rough approximation of the end of the fretboard, and from that add a little wiggle space so you can be positive you don't start it under the board. 1/8-1/2" would be fine. It's really not that critical. And don't get so hung up on the "1.2-1.4 degree" number. As long as you start your puckup plane somewhere near the end of the fb and end it somewhere beyond the bridge pickup then the geometry will work.

 

[RobStark]

Thanks to all for the replies. Helpful!

 

[xroadie_jim]

Hello everyone,

This Gibson Les Paul 1959 is a replica built in Brazil by Luthier Gustavo Lage !!! What think the guitar? was made of mahogany centennial.

Vídeos 1959 Bralizian Replica :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bzjf2wa8xyE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbW0AqFrCeE





---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This another Brazilian guy named "Sergio Kuns" also built this les paul gold top, very well built !!! It is not luthier! he is curious and was investigating how it's done, then did!

The following photos of the construction process on your facebook profile:

https://www.facebook.com/sergio.kuns/media_set?set=a.3590382578103.113946.1829532843&type=3


Excuse me my english, i'm Brazilian

Beautiful work. He needs to do that car next...

 

[gplayer]

Here is the carve template I will use in case anyone wants to try, it is not my work so I'm not taking any credits for it it's just a re-traced version of Scott's carve template set that includes the second version with the straight lines as he mentioned a while ago, if this breaks any rules or is inappropriate in any way I apologize in advance, take a look and let me know if it needs any changes.

 

[kevin walsh]

Hi Scott,

I'm brand new to this forum and can honestly say that since joining I sit here whenever I have a free minute, this is absolutely stunning in every way!

I'm a firm believer in being dead straight and upfront about life so with that in mind would you please give me your permission to download your carving template?

As I will soon be doing my own 59" build and they look very good indeed, I'm just making my templates at the moment and being a Carpenter by trade here in the UK I was always taught 25 years ago when I was an apprentice that preparation was key so I'm taking every care possible with them.
Its great to use the tools I have everyday for work on something so rewarding and finding this site has really kicked up my determination, having Gibson Les Paul's here at home its plain to see that the factory build quality is somewhat lacking in comparison to what I see here
(I hope that's ok to say, don't want to upset anyone on my first post if I can help it!)

Anyway I thought it important to ask.

Regards

Jon

Hi Jon,
I too am new to this forum and I'm going to have a go at building my first guitar, a Les Paul. However I cannot find how to download Scott's templates. It may be that this and related posts are too old. If you managed to download them and you still have them can I get a copy from you please. Live in South Wales and am about to retire in 6 weeks time so looking forward to this project. Best regards. Kevin