ESP Eclipse vs Tokai

andrius

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Are ESP Eclipse from E-II or post-2010 Standard series as good as Tokai LS160? It seems like they are in the same price category. Apart from things like ESP being not full thickness body (which is fine with me), different pickups (they can be replaced) and differences in neck profile shapes - are the woods used and the craftsmanship of the same quality?
 

lucien

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I can't really answer your question directly because they are really quite different...but I will try to help.

The current LS160 should be pretty decent. Entirely made in Japan, nitro, indian (african?) rosewood fingerboard, 2pc body and in house Tokai pickups - it's hard to say which one has better craftsmanship but I would say they are both 1st class in that price range.

A few years back when the E-II line up was announced, the local guitarists / musicians all went crazy and bought the very last stock of ESP headstock ESP guitar available in the city. From what I understand the E-II are on par with Edwards (which products are domestic for Japan only) and does not share the same quality as the original ESP line-up (which got replaced by E-II as export products). It's all gibberish really, but the common consensus seems to relate quality of E-II guitars with Edwards.

I played an ESP Eclipse about 2-3 years ago. Yes the body is not as thick as Tokai/other MIJ lesters, has a black satin finish, binding was yellowish and cool, pickup was either EMG or heavier sounding duncans, ebony fingerboard and a fast skinny neck profile...if I was a session musician I would buy it - seemed to me a very good quality, no nonsense live/workhorse guitar. I have never played a E-II eclipse, but they look similar.

my 2 cents, hope that helps...
 

GERRYGTR62

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never tried a Tokai, but I love my Eclipse II Std, it's a well-made, fast-playing shred machine and the tone from the EMG 60/81 rips!! They have passive models loaded with Duncans, so I'd say try one out if you can
 

Drew224

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The Eclipses are geared towards very heavy music. A more apples to apples comparison would be an Edwards (run by ESP) vs a Tokai.
 

luis

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A fair comparision would be a korean Tokai (or chinese) vs Ltd (korean and chinese then).
No japanese Tokai would be equal to a Ltd in my book.
 

tele52

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I have an EII eclipse with duncans. Very much a great all around guitar. The fit and finish of this $1499.00 guitar is better than a Gibson CS. You won't find a single flaw, The fretwork is amazing, and that's what makes a great guitar great. The neck is wonderful, the belly cut comfortable. It's amazing that you guys look down on Japanese guitars. The Japanese build amazing machinery. The old MIJ fenders have a very high resale, if you can find one.
Gibson's best days are behind them. They need to get rid of Henry.
 

Mosster47

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The current LS160 has a one piece back. It's the exact same specs as an R8. You can get a brand new one for $1,300 plus shipping from Japan to whether you are. The pickups in an R8 will be way better than the MK-2's, so expects to be into it for $1,600. That means you can buy two new for the price of one new R8. The LS-160's aren't weight relieved at all which is good/bad depending on player preference.


I can't really answer your question directly because they are really quite different...but I will try to help.

The current LS160 should be pretty decent. Entirely made in Japan, nitro, indian (african?) rosewood fingerboard, 2pc body and in house Tokai pickups - it's hard to say which one has better craftsmanship but I would say they are both 1st class in that price range.

A few years back when the E-II line up was announced, the local guitarists / musicians all went crazy and bought the very last stock of ESP headstock ESP guitar available in the city. From what I understand the E-II are on par with Edwards (which products are domestic for Japan only) and does not share the same quality as the original ESP line-up (which got replaced by E-II as export products). It's all gibberish really, but the common consensus seems to relate quality of E-II guitars with Edwards.

I played an ESP Eclipse about 2-3 years ago. Yes the body is not as thick as Tokai/other MIJ lesters, has a black satin finish, binding was yellowish and cool, pickup was either EMG or heavier sounding duncans, ebony fingerboard and a fast skinny neck profile...if I was a session musician I would buy it - seemed to me a very good quality, no nonsense live/workhorse guitar. I have never played a E-II eclipse, but they look similar.

my 2 cents, hope that helps...
 

syndromet

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The current LS160 has a one piece back. It's the exact same specs as an R8. You can get a brand new one for $1,300 plus shipping from Japan to whether you are. The pickups in an R8 will be way better than the MK-2's, so expects to be into it for $1,600. That means you can buy two new for the price of one new R8. The LS-160's aren't weight relieved at all which is good/bad depending on player preference.

They don't have exact same specs as R8, as the Tokai doesn't have nibs and just the top coat is laquer.
 

Mosster47

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They don't have exact same specs as R8, as the Tokai doesn't have nibs and just the top coat is laquer.

Sorry, forget people care about there being plastic where fret should be. I've never seen anything that says there is any Poly used on the premium spec guitars. Link?
 

syndromet

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Sorry, forget people care about there being plastic where fret should be. I've never seen anything that says there is any Poly used on the premium spec guitars. Link?

I don't remember where I got that info, but I remember that being one of the things I thought about when I was choosing between my Bacchus and a Tokai. As far as I can remember, they both had a poly base coat with laquer on top. I might be wrong, though...
 

fleahead

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Guys, question for you. I have an Edwards GT with poly, but the top is the satin finish. I rather prefer gloss, is it possible to buff to a gloss or should I leave it as is?
 

syndromet

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Guys, question for you. I have an Edwards GT with poly, but the top is the satin finish. I rather prefer gloss, is it possible to buff to a gloss or should I leave it as is?

Shouldn't be a problem to buff it up. Remove all hardware and go ahead.
 

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