Do sunburst 60's tribute Les Paul Studios definitely have a nitro finish?

kevin65

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I read some articles about people having problems after applying a nitro clearcoat to goldtop 50's tribute and 60's tribute LPs and that theses gold tops had some sort of enamel finish rather than nitro which caused the reaction. Does anyone know if this is just an issue with goldtops fininshes on these guitars? Do the sunburst finishes (cherry, honey) use nitro? I'm thinking of doing a faux binding on my cherry sunburst 60s' tribute and plan to apply some clear nitro to the edge of the maple cap but want to be sure about the factory finish first. Thanks.
 

emoney

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Kevin there's been a ton of discussion on these guitars throughout MLP as it pertains
to that finish, so I'm sure the info you're looking for is here somewhere hidden in that
search feature. However, why not strip the old finish and start anew? That way you
don't have to worry about adhesion or reactive properties and you get the look you're
after?
 

kevin65

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Thanks emoney. I had a look but only found discussions on goldtops, so I'm assuming that the other tribute LPs do indeed have a proper nitro finish. I'm happy with the current finish, and only wish to strip the edge of the maple cap. Getting nitro products in Ireland is almost impossible, I was lucky to get my hands on some clear nitro lacquer, so a refin is out of the question:).
 

chequepoint

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I think I may have been the first one to discover the goldtop's are enamel. I haven't followed too closely to see if other people have also earned that knowledge =) But I can tell you that the back, headstock, etc. were all your basic Gibson "nitro". I'd assume that the other guitars in the line are all the heavily plasticized Gibson "nitro" as well.

They just couldn't find a way to do a proper goldtop in lacquer in the amount of labor that they budgeted for those guitars. The lack of honesty in the marketing materials, etc. was annoying at best but Gibson's gonna do what Gibson's gonna do..
 

kevin65

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Thanks for that info chequepoint. I plan on just sanding the edge of the maple cap and clearcoating with some nitro, so at least now I'll be confident that there won't be any reaction issues. On seeing discussions on the goldtops, I was concerned that this might be a potential issue with other colours in the range also. There have been threads on faux binding and some people with 50's and 60's tributes have done them, but the only finish mentioned for the binding area was tru oil, no mention of using any lacquers. Now it just a case of finding the time to get it done:).
 

emoney

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I think the biggest challenge you may encounter is that "nitro" is not the "nitro" it used
to be and each manufacturer is mixing theirs just a tad differently. I know I've used two
different types of rattle-can and they are miles apart. I guess the only thing I'd suggest
is to try and find the least noticeable area and spray a smidgeon of what you have and
see what happens, i.e. reaction, etc. You know, of course, that they're using the
non-glossy type?

The key to getting a good 'faux binding' is all in the taping really. I just finished a build
and once I got the body tape, the rest was a cake walk.
Binding3.jpg
 

kevin65

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I have a rattle-can of clear satin nitro and plan to spray a small amount at a time into a container and apply with an artists brush and this will give a nice thin coat. I'll first apply a small amount on the edge of the cap where I plan to sand, so if there is a reaction it's no big deal. At least I'll know and a purchase of some tru oil will then be required. Thanks again:).
 

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