Daisycutter 10W kit by Phaez - the build chronicles

blues.junior

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...aka looks like everybody, just about everywhere, is about to get a Phaez :)

Seems like a lot of good people are going to be behind this project, some very good documentation is being put together by Rayzer59 with Randy's full support, and I had the privilege of reading the first draft (thanks Ray) and I can say that it will be massively helpful. Anybody with hands and a soldering gun will be able to put this thing together.

On to the build.
I'm at the very beginning, the kit is sitting pure and quiet waiting for lazy me to sort out all the parts. Randy shipped the kit with the following parts already mounted on the chassis: OT, PT, tube sockets, power/standby switches, power plug, grommets.

Will start a list of parts that are not included (so far, all of them are items that anybody starting a project like this should have in their toolkit/garage/"i know i have one of those somewhere" places):
- tubes (2x12AX7, 1 of EL34/6L6/KT66/6V6 - circuit is self biasing so yes it will take any of those power tubes)
- buss wire (i get it from Tubedepot, using 18AWG)
- industrial strength glue (Goop, as per Randy's instructions)
- the knobs for the 5 pots (great opportunity to add a personal touch)

Will maintain this list as I progress with the build.








Next stage will be sorting the electronic components and measuring them for accuracy.
Turret board will go out, to make some room for the input cable installation.
I think I will solder the bulk of the components on the turret board with the board removed (easier to work with the board as it is a flat surface when out of the chassis).

Most importantly, everybody's input is welcome here, as this would, ideally, become a reference guide for building the DC10W.
 

randelli

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What a great kit! Most of the hard part is already done for you....

I think you will miss the fun of getting aluminum shavings in your fingers while drilling the chassis - but hey, I'm just weird that way :D

Enjoy the build and post lots of pics!!
 

Rayzer59

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I must say that I backed into writing the assembly manual. When Randy first said he was going to do a kit, I volunteered to test the assembly instructions by doing one of the first builds. Somehow that turned into me writing the guide. Still not sure how that happened.

Anyway, all of you who are building this great kit, please feel free to send me your comments and suggestions. I am working on updated schematics (there is a steep learning curve on the software I used, and I was in a rush to get the first set of schematics out), and after that I expect to revise the guide based on your input.

In the mean time, all you builders change the batteries in your meters (do you really remember how old they are?), clean off the tips on your soldering irons, and remember to HAVE FUN. Set a timer and walk away from time to time. A tired builder makes mistakes.

Ray Goodman

rayzer59 (at) gmail.com
 

Ed B

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Subscribed! This is gonna be fun.
 

V2

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I'll probably have the kit in a couple more weeks, after Randy gets a few other parts I ordered. I'll add some build photos too, perhaps focusing on unique aspects of my build. Looks like V (blues.junior) will be the first to document the entire build process here.
 

McCloud9

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Subscribed! This is gonna be fun.
A big +1 on that! It just happens that I stumbled onto a another website where this amp was being discussed and a youtube video review, and the sounds of this amp, not to mention the cost of the kit really got my attention!

Thanks to blues jr for posting this thread and to Rayzer59 for creating the manual! It will be very interesting to see how this is done! I'm not much of a build it yourself guy when it comes to electronics projects where high voltages are involved though. Have fun with building this amp!
 

Chop'emDown

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My kit is in the mail! Should have it in a few days and hope to have it put together sometime next week.

I'm subbed as well.
 

phaezamp

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Knobs and the foot of 18ga bus wire shoulda been included. My bad. I have a feeling this is going to be a very active thread...
 

blues.junior

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So I started with some prep work and ended up turning my Hakko on and doing some actual soldering. The turret board is out and I soldered as many components as I could with the board out.

Resistors checked for values (had some trouble measuring the 1Mohm but I'm sure it's my dvom)


Turret board our of the chassis, mounting holes are marked so I don't solder anything on top (note to self: need to mount back in chassis without removing soldered components in the process).


Current state:









I gotta make a Goop (Goop | Plumber's Goop | Home Depot Canada yay Home Depot) run before I involve any of the chassis mounted parts into soldering.

I couple of useful links:

- decode color coding on resistors: Resistor color code calculator - 3, 4 and 5 band resistors
- decode capacitor markings: Electronics 2000 | Capacitor Code Calculator

More to come.
 

randelli

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I do not have the layout in front of me; but I question the orientation of the capacitors on your turret board. I am assuming that the bottom of your partially loaded board, in the pictures, is facing the same direction as the empty board. I also assume that you will ground the bottom edge of the power rail and output tube cathode resistor as it is the furtherest from the output tube. If that is the case, you will be OK with the 470uf/63V and 2.2uf/100v caps. What I don't know is whether the 10uf/400v caps are polarized, and if so, which is the negative end. I guess I am saying you should verify that the caps are facing the right direction in relation to the ground.

Other that my concerns above it is looking really good! Enjoy it!
 

blues.junior

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Come on Randelli, are you actually reading into the layout?...outrageous! :)
Bottom turret (per pic) on the 470μF is the negative and will be connected to the ground bus. The 470μF is the only electrolytic cap on the board.
Good catch!


I do not have the layout in front of me; but I question the orientation of the capacitors on your turret board. I am assuming that the bottom of your partially loaded board, in the pictures, is facing the same direction as the empty board. I also assume that you will ground the bottom edge of the power rail and output tube cathode resistor as it is the furtherest from the output tube. If that is the case, you will be OK with the 470uf/63V and 2.2uf/100v caps. What I don't know is whether the 10uf/400v caps are polarized, and if so, which is the negative end. I guess I am saying you should verify that the caps are facing the right direction in relation to the ground.

Other that my concerns above it is looking really good! Enjoy it!
 

Rayzer59

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I do not have the layout in front of me; but I question the orientation of the capacitors on your turret board. I am assuming that the bottom of your partially loaded board, in the pictures, is facing the same direction as the empty board. I also assume that you will ground the bottom edge of the power rail and output tube cathode resistor as it is the furtherest from the output tube. If that is the case, you will be OK with the 470uf/63V and 2.2uf/100v caps. What I don't know is whether the 10uf/400v caps are polarized, and if so, which is the negative end. I guess I am saying you should verify that the caps are facing the right direction in relation to the ground.

Other that my concerns above it is looking really good! Enjoy it!
The 2.2 is bi-polar, and I believe the 10s are Metallized Polypropylene, and are oriented the same way as the ones in Randy's original build. I am sure Randy will check this thread often and correct me if I am wrong.

Good job with the pictures, keep them coming!
 

phaezamp

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Rayzer, you just beat me! I was just going to say the same thing.

edit: to answer your question below the 10uf/400v are non-polarized
 

randelli

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Good to hear! I have seen caps blow before so I was being cautious. So are the 10uf/400v non-polarized?

I thought the 2.2 were bi-polar - sometimes they look happy and, well, nevermind :)
 




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