CTS pots for volume.

[Hichisky]

After learning a bit on pots, I'm thinking about putting some 500k ones in vs the 300k. Im talking about my LP Traditional. I was looking at these:
500K Pot, By CTS

Would they work? Looking at the pots cavity of my guitar they are all mounted through a metal plate (which I believe to be the ground). I'm not sure what the diameter of the pot shafts are, so I wonder if the CTS ones would fit? Also the CTS are long shaft; do I need this or short shaft? I'm thinking with the cap of the Les Paul and the metal plate between the pots and it, that the ones currently in are long shaft, but I'm not sure.

Lastly,
Would you suggest that there are better pots to buy?
Maybe just some 500k pots labeled by Gibson?

 

[MATTM]

You'll need long shaft. Those CTS pots are fine and most likely an upgrade from what's in your guitar now (assuming it's totally stock). You could also go with CTS500XL's which are long shaft with a tighter tolerance (10% as opposed to 30%). They meter approximately 500-550K and have a great audio taper.

I'd also get rid of that mounting plate, wire up the new pots 50's style, and get some new caps. If your going to swap pots, now is the time to do everything right

 

[Hichisky]

Hmm interesting, martin6string. You now got me wondering if I should change out the tone pots too, because yes, it's all stock. Only makes sense to do them too if I'm going to go through the trouble of doing the volumes. That is if they work just as well for tone.

There is a whole kit here:
* WD Music Products - LES PAUL® WIRING KIT LONG

Though I don't think I need all that and could probably save quite a bit buying only the pots (x4)?

Thanks man.

 

[tazzboy]

These are the two place I got my pots from

500k Audio Split Long CTS Guitar Pot 10% Tolerance - Full Size Pots by Carolina Guitar Parts

CTS Pots | BCS Custom Guitars

and of course jonesy if has any to sell.

 

[Hichisky]

Thanks for the links, tazzboy. So if I were to put these 500k pots in replace of the 300's, is there a possibility that it could get "too" bright sounding? That is with the 57s. I know this is a tad bit subjective, but In my epi LP it has Gibson 57 classics with 500k pots and it's not too bright, however it is of course without a maple top though (it's a custom in ebony, so no veneer either).

 

[mobprop667]

i got a set of cts 500xl pots from sjoesy here on the forum. they are great, and i cant say enough about jonesys customer service. i have ordered pots and caps from him, and they always arrived sooner than expected and were exactly what he said they would be.

 

[tazzboy]

Thanks for the links, tazzboy. So if I were to put these 500k pots in replace of the 300's, is there a possibility that it could get "too" bright sounding? That is with the 57s. I know this is a tad bit subjective, but In my epi LP it has Gibson 57 classics with 500k pots and it's not too bright, however it is of course without a maple top though (it's a custom in ebony, so no veneer either).

in a since yes. But if you read the thread http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/tonefreaks/48038-how-use-controls-les-paul.html You shouldn't run into that problem too much.

 

[MATTM]

Hmm interesting, martin6string. You now got me wondering if I should change out the tone pots too, because yes, it's all stock. Only makes sense to do them too if I'm going to go through the trouble of doing the volumes. That is if they work just as well for tone.

There is a whole kit here:
* WD Music Products - LES PAUL® WIRING KIT LONG

Though I don't think I need all that and could probably save quite a bit buying only the pots (x4)?

Thanks man.

Sure thing. Check out my store if your interested: Martin Six String Customs items - Get great deals on pre-wired, pre wired items on eBay Stores!

 

[Mookakian]

You'll need long shaft. Those CTS pots are fine and most likely an upgrade from what's in your guitar now (assuming it's totally stock). You could also go with CTS500XL's which are long shaft with a tighter tolerance (10% as opposed to 30%). They meter approximately 500-550K and have a great audio taper.

I'd also get rid of that mounting plate, wire up the new pots 50's style, and get some new caps. If your going to swap pots, now is the time to do everything right

Short, sweet and to the point, great post martin, why haven't i seen you in here more often, always hear the name pop up, apparently you do some great work

 

[Lowdown]

You'll need long shaft audio/log pot,as already mentioned.
But when changing/removing pots you're going to have to decide beforehand whether you want to keep the plate that your controls are fixed to or remove it and redo all the wiring in the cavity from scratch. Also upgrade the caps if you haven't already.
Now if you decide to just replace the pot/s and caps you'll have to remove ALL the knobs and nuts from the face of your guitar to be able to remove the plate and get to the pots. BEFORE doing this,take a pic of the inside of your control cavity for later reference-which wire goes where. Also grab a schematic of the 50's wiring and do this. It is better IMO...
After you've desoldered the wires from the pot/s you're removing you need to get a pair of needle nose pliers or similar and gently lift the tab on the pot holding it to the plate. Unscrew the nut and replace with your new pot.
Eh. It ain't hard. Nothing to it, and you'll get the extra buzz from knowing you did it and didn't need to pay anyone.
BUT,if you've never done this or any soldering/wiring work before...practice on something else first 'til you're confident.
And no,there will be no icepick to the ear difference between your 300k and a 500k pot.
I personally use a 500 in the bridge and a 300 in the neck. Go figure...
CTS brass shafts. Up to you whether you want vintage or flat back modern style?

 

[Hichisky]

You'll need long shaft audio/log pot,as already mentioned.
But when changing/removing pots you're going to have to decide beforehand whether you want to keep the plate that your controls are fixed to or remove it and redo all the wiring in the cavity from scratch. Also upgrade the caps if you haven't already.
Now if you decide to just replace the pot/s and caps you'll have to remove ALL the knobs and nuts from the face of your guitar to be able to remove the plate and get to the pots. BEFORE doing this,take a pic of the inside of your control cavity for later reference-which wire goes where. Also grab a schematic of the 50's wiring and do this. It is better IMO...
After you've desoldered the wires from the pot/s you're removing you need to get a pair of needle nose pliers or similar and gently lift the tab on the pot holding it to the plate. Unscrew the nut and replace with your new pot.
Eh. It ain't hard. Nothing to it, and you'll get the extra buzz from knowing you did it and didn't need to pay anyone.
BUT,if you've never done this or any soldering/wiring work before...practice on something else first 'til you're confident.
And no,there will be no icepick to the ear difference between your 300k and a 500k pot.
I personally use a 500 in the bridge and a 300 in the neck. Go figure...
CTS brass shafts. Up to you whether you want vintage or flat back modern style?

Thanks for the very informative post. Much helpful. Yes, I will probably be removing the plate. Seems better that way for some reason. As far as getting screen shots, yeah, I got some. Though I have looked at the wiring so many times, I honestly remember the whole circuit lol. I will practice more soldering before moving on to the "big gun"!

Thanks again.

 

[MATTM]

Short, sweet and to the point, great post martin, why haven't i seen you in here more often, always hear the name pop up, apparently you do some great work

Thanks

 

[GitFiddle]

Thanks for the very informative post. Much helpful. Yes, I will probably be removing the plate. Seems better that way for some reason. As far as getting screen shots, yeah, I got some. Though I have looked at the wiring so many times, I honestly remember the whole circuit lol. I will practice more soldering before moving on to the "big gun"!

Thanks again.

Hichisky, Easiest thing in the world. Get a 50's wiring harness from Jonesy.
ToneMojo.com Got your Tone-Mojo Working?
Just desolder your pickup wires, pull the whole mess out and drop in the new one and resolder the pickup wires. I did it to my R7 in an hour and couldn't be happier.

 

[HiddenVire]

Was wondering what the difference the tighter tolerance on the XL's makes?

 

[MATTM]

Was wondering what the difference the tighter tolerance on the XL's makes?

The "XL" is just the code for Long Shaft pot. As far as the tolerance, those pots, which are the one's I use, are spec'd at 525K with +-4% tolerance, even know they are "marketed" and stamped 500K. The reason is so that even in a worst case scenario, the pot will meter at least 500K.

 

[HiddenVire]

The "XL" is just the code for Long Shaft pot. As far as the tolerance, those pots, which are the one's I use, are spec'd at 525K with +-4% tolerance, even know they are "marketed" and stamped 500K. The reason is so that even in a worst case scenario, the pot will meter at least 500K.

Thanks!!

 

[MATTM]

Thanks!!

No problem. I have a page on my blog that has pictures and detailed specs on these pots if your interested in reading into it further....

http://www.martinsixstringcustoms.c...taper-guitar-pots-the-ultimate-potentiometer/

 

[Hichisky]

I just now did receive my supplies and measured the pots. I got five so that I could choose the better ones. I am very satisfied with the measurements. All were over 500k but one, and none went out of the 10% tolerance range. For $5 each, I highly recommend Warmoth.com to purchase CTS pots.

Readings are:
489k (one that will probably not be used)
506k
520k
543k
548k

Now I just need decide which to put where. I'm thinking of maybe the 543k & 548k for volumes and the other two for tone? Or possibly the other way around?

I also need to figure out how the heck I'm going to strip the premium wire lol. It's nice stuff. It's got the inner wire strand, then the cloth insulation, then the outer braided wire, THEN some clear thin insulation over that (I had no idea it had this also). So again I ask, how the heck do I strip this "complex" wire? lol
I'm sure I can get it done, it's just at the moment I'm at a slight loss.

 

[GitFiddle]

I also need to figure out how the heck I'm going to strip the premium wire lol. It's nice stuff. It's got the inner wire strand, then the cloth insulation, then the outer braided wire, THEN some clear thin insulation over that (I had no idea it had this also). So again I ask, how the heck do I strip this "complex" wire? lol
I'm sure I can get it done, it's just at the moment I'm at a slight loss.

This clip is always worth watching. It may help. Seymour shows just how he uses that wire and solders it to the pots. (Right around 5:43)

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgib50ROqRc]YouTube - Seymour Duncan's guide on replacing pickups[/ame]