CTS 500K pots the Long & Short Explained with Pics

canon_lespaul

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Useful thread....
Quick question from a real amateur PLANNING to attempt my first pot and capacitor change.
Do I need to remove the entire mounting plate from the cavity to change the volume pots and caps? I assume that would make things much easier for soldering the caps in place as compared to trying to do it all within the cavity?
Also are there tips or things to keep an eye out for when trying to remove the mounting plate?
Many thanks.
 

jonesy

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Useful thread....
Quick question from a real amateur PLANNING to attempt my first pot and capacitor change.
Do I need to remove the entire mounting plate from the cavity to change the volume pots and caps? I assume that would make things much easier for soldering the caps in place as compared to trying to do it all within the cavity?
Also are there tips or things to keep an eye out for when trying to remove the mounting plate?
Many thanks.

Yes most of the time the only way to get the old pots out of the plate is to completely remove it from the control cavity because there are usually hex nuts on the pots under the plate.

When you remove the plate push the pots back from the front, if one is stuck gently work it free and pull the plate straight out vs trying to pry up one side.

You don't have to use that metal plate, unless you plan on keeping the stock toggle switch. If you look at the plate there is a post in the center where the switch and output jack leads connect.

A lot of times when people upgrade pots and caps they will just go ahead get rid of the stock toggle with the plastic coated leads and install a toggle switch with the vintage braided wire so it's all 50's style.

I'm not a fan of the metal plate and prefer to mount the pots directly to the wood cavity like they did up until 1977. The long pots are double nutted so you can adjust how far the threads stick through the top as the thickness will vary where V & T controls are.

Hope that helps, have fun. :)

jonesy

 

canon_lespaul

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Thanks Jonesy, that's great help....
I am looking forward to undertaking the mods myself, but i am conscious of ensuring I am confident in knowing what i need to do, and more importantly, what not to do....
This forum has provided some great advice, thanks again.
 

Hiroku

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Hi Jonesy,
I just wanted to ask a question about my 2010 Classic.

In my control cavity I have the metal plate in there instead of the circuit board. Is this normal considering Gibson likes to change things around?

Thank you for your time.
 

jonesy

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Hi Jonesy,
I just wanted to ask a question about my 2010 Classic.

In my control cavity I have the metal plate in there instead of the circuit board. Is this normal considering Gibson likes to change things around?

Thank you for your time.
Yeah they went to the PCB board in 2008 for the majority of the production models but they still seem to be using the metal plate in the Classics and a few other LP's that have more of the vintage vibe. My 2010 Studio LP just had the PCB board in it. :)
 

Northwinds

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Great thread, especially about explaining how to adjust the height of the pots since every guitar is different and some stick up more then others. I always thought the plate acted as some sort of ground. I notice that many do not seem to come with the plate cover which for some reason I really dig like in my old and now in another member's possession '79 BB Custom
 

Coldacre

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does anyone know whether the 2013 Traditional has short or long shaft pots?
 

Caoimhin

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You and Martin6atring need to write a book on guitar electronics with all that knowledge.
 

jonesy

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I wonder what my 03 LP standard has..
Most likely if it's a Gibson you have the long shaft pots mounted on a metal plate...take off the cover and see what's in there :)
 

ak81

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Very informational post!

I am looking at putting 500k pots and new caps in my es-135 semi hollow body and don't know what to expect. Do you happen to know if it has long or short pots? Should I replace all four pots or do I just need volume or tone?

Also, it looks like I will be going through the pickup holes and the f-holes as there's no back access cavity. Will this be extremely difficult in your opinion?

Thanks for any info you can pass on.
 

jonesy

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Very informational post!

I am looking at putting 500k pots and new caps in my es-135 semi hollow body and don't know what to expect. Do you happen to know if it has long or short pots? Should I replace all four pots or do I just need volume or tone?

Also, it looks like I will be going through the pickup holes and the f-holes as there's no back access cavity. Will this be extremely difficult in your opinion?

Thanks for any info you can pass on.
Short pots in all the hollow bodies.

If it was my guitar I would remove all the original electronics and set them aside and then replace all the pots and caps with a new upgraded wiring harness with the best CTS550K pots, 50s wiring and .022 or even .047 oil caps for the P90s

Should be able to remove the bridge pickup and snake it all into the cavity through the hole that's there.

Not easy to get everything up inside there, you need to have patience and really take your time. I have done it many times so it's easier when you know some of the little tricks. :)
 

ncsouthpaw

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So now that someone (Bourns) finally makes the long shaft reverse taper pots, is anyone able to offer lefty wiring harnesses? I would just want the original wiring - the modern stuff with S1 switches and whatnot is just excessive for me.

Also, still nobody makes lefty taper pots with the push/pull switch, so they are just wiring righty pots backwards on everything since 2012 I think. Very annoying.

I even have 4 of the Bourns lefty pots, but have never soldered, so I'm hesitant to try learning on my first real Gibson.
 




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