converting a bridge

[sangandongo]

So, over time I whittled down my Les Paul collection to three from 5. My '5X LP Junior Strings and Things conversion, my '71 GT Deluxe (my #1), and my '80 Deluxe Tobacco.

The '80 is my least played Les Paul. I am not a huge fan of the bridge. It's tone is bright and crisp, but I want slightly more darkness to it - like I get from my '71. Likely the mahogany neck in the '71 contributes a lot to that aspect, though I imagine the caps do too (I just bought some '71 Sprague caps for $6 I'll be tossing into the '80 to see how that changes matters.)

So, my next step is to address the bridge. It wobbles just a bit much for my liking. I prefer ABR bridges, honestly. I found a post conversion that screws right into the Nashville post cups, and honestly, that's the easiest solution and I may go with it, but I want to see what people think about a full ABR conversion: plugging the holes and redrilling for ABR posts.

Thanks!

 

[HOT-BRIT]

Faber make good ones check them out

 

[HOT-BRIT]

You will be able to easily convert back to original spec if you ever want to sell it

 

[Mildperv]

I've done quite a few conversions. Not too bad of a process. Result looks better with solid colors for matching, obviously. I drill out holes to match my plug bit. 3/8s I think is the closest to the Nashville bushing. I think 1/4 was a tad too small. I got the wood at Lowes. Nice piece of maple for hand rail end cap or something... Good size chunk for many projects. Worth the effort.

 

[macg1]

I would suggest a healthy dosage of chumbi, but not calumbi. easy mod, if you have the right chorpsy loooo.

So, over time I whittled down my Les Paul collection to three from 5. My '5X LP Junior Strings and Things conversion, my '71 GT Deluxe (my #1), and my '80 Deluxe Tobacco.

The '80 is my least played Les Paul. I am not a huge fan of the bridge. It's tone is bright and crisp, but I want slightly more darkness to it - like I get from my '71. Likely the mahogany neck in the '71 contributes a lot to that aspect, though I imagine the caps do too (I just bought some '71 Sprague caps for $6 I'll be tossing into the '80 to see how that changes matters.)

So, my next step is to address the bridge. It wobbles just a bit much for my liking. I prefer ABR bridges, honestly. I found a post conversion that screws right into the Nashville post cups, and honestly, that's the easiest solution and I may go with it, but I want to see what people think about a full ABR conversion: plugging the holes and redrilling for ABR posts.

Thanks!

 

[sangandongo]

Wow. I must say, that's the best "100th post" I've ever seen.

 

[gtr-tek]

Callaham makes a great conversion and is reversible: Callaham Vintage Guitars and Parts (Callaham ABR-1 bridge)

Faber is good too.

 

[F.V.]

Faber make good ones check them out

+1 for Faber - I own a few. I did the full conversion on my Spotlight - drilled/tapped the post insert holes, and used the conversion posts that screw right into the wood. Very solid. On the '82 (which is for sale - shameless plug) I used the ones that screw into the existing inserts. Works well, also, without having to make any mods you can't reverse. And bonus, Larry Corsa at CVG is a great guy to work with.

 

[Matt'Lefty]

I'm not impressed by faber's work.

 

[F.V.]

I'm not impressed by faber's work.

Why's that? Would like to hear what you think.

 

[Matt'Lefty]

After installing faber's tailpiece and bridge on my R7 I didn't get what I was hearing for. Sound didn't really become more open, but the tone has changed.
And when it comes to tone, as every musician has a different taste, one would say the tone has improved, other would say it didn't.

I've referred to Faber's work, because, uh. Let's say there is a company A and company B, both produce same guitar part, from the same material, but in a different way. That's it.
There are many ABR-1 bridges that are made from steel, and somehow, every company produces different sounding parts.

 

[sangandongo]

So, after having several Nashville and ABR types, the main difference I hear is the tinny nature of the Nashville style. They resonate more metallic in my ears, and I can only deduce that it is due to the poles being screwed into another piece of metal rather than the wood.

This very thing is what worries me about screw in conversions. I don't think it's the actual bridge piece that fails for me on Nashvilles, but rather it's the way the bridge is seated in the guitar.

 

[gtr-tek]

So, after having several Nashville and ABR types, the main difference I hear is the tinny nature of the Nashville style. They resonate more metallic in my ears, and I can only deduce that it is due to the poles being screwed into another piece of metal rather than the wood.

This very thing is what worries me about screw in conversions. I don't think it's the actual bridge piece that fails for me on Nashvilles, but rather it's the way the bridge is seated in the guitar.

Interesting that you say that. The most interesting part of the Callaham conversion to me is the replacement posts that don't screw in at all. Beats plugging the top and drilling. The steel ABR-1 construction is also good as the bugger should never sag unless I go to 14s or some such nonsense. Even then...

 

[slapshot]

I found a post conversion that screws right into the Nashville post cups, and honestly, that's the easiest solution and I may go with it, but I want to see what people think about a full ABR conversion: plugging the holes and redrilling for ABR posts.

Thanks!

i'd definitely go with the conversion posts.

 

[sangandongo]

Interesting that you say that. The most interesting part of the Callaham conversion to me is the replacement posts that don't screw in at all. Beats plugging the top and drilling. The steel ABR-1 construction is also good as the bugger should never sag unless I go to 14s or some such nonsense. Even then...

The Callahams seem to be the best option - they fit down into the stud hole, which I like. Seems like this would be the best way to transfer resonance from the strings to the wood and would achieve what I want from the conversion. I'll give it some thought and maybe pull the trigger next paycheck.

Thanks for all the feedback.

 

[riffsmachine]

I put an ABR1 Nylon saddles on a couple of historics(68'RI, R8) and on a 71'custom that had a Nashville bridge on.
Very,very nice result. More soft playin', more focused sound.

I'm mad about nylon saddles. I keep a couple reserve just in case.

One of these days i will open a thread about these kind of bridges to get more info. (There are not much on the web speaking about it)

 

[sangandongo]

How did your '71 have a Nashville? Why would anyone have done something like that?!

 

[riffsmachine]

I bought this guitar BEFORE join at MLP forum.(couple years ago)

So some months ago i founded a collector that selled an original 69' ABR1 nylon saddles bridge with relative alluminium tail piece.

This upgrade had change the playbility and sound of this instrument and is,of course, much correct period.

Then i start to search for other bridges like that and i founded some NICE made in Japan replica. They are made by MONTREAUX. They are made in nickel or gold plated. So i tried it on a R8 RI who not convince me. I just replace the bridge without move a screw.
Same with one 68' RI.

Now they play like cream.

 

[gtr-tek]

How did your '71 have a Nashville? Why would anyone have done something like that?!

Probably due to the original ABR-1 sagging. It was pretty common to replace them with current production parts in the '80s (or whenever this was done). I have a Nashville on my mid '70s 335 that I'll probably put back to an ABR-1 soon. The original bridge caved in after I got the guitar used in the early to mid '80s and the Gibson Nashville was the current part available at the time. It was considered an upgrade at the time!

 

[sangandongo]

I assume "sag" isn't actually the bridge itself collapsing, but rather the posts pressing inward towards the center?