Okay, because I'm on a roll and you guys inflated my ego, here's some more...
When I think of compressors, the last application I think of for them is electric guitar. A few people wrote that they felt that electric guitar through a tube amp is already compressed enough and there is much truth to that, especially with an overdriven amp. A little compression after the fact (like during mixdown when making an album) can definitely help to tighten up a guitar track though.
But that's not what I wanted to write about.
There's a producer named Bob Clearmountain who made his name by producing Bruce Springsteen's Born In The USA album. Now that I've mentioned that, listen to the sound of the snare drum in the album's title song - it's right there at the beginning:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZD4ezDbbu4]YouTube - ‪Bruce Springsteen - Born In The U.S.A.‬‏[/ame]
Yeah, it's a big 80's sound and might seem a little dated but ask yourself "How the hell does a snare drum sound like that?"
Answer: I don't know exactly, but this is how I would go approach it.
Effects order: gate, compression, reverb, gate, compression, reverb.
First off, there is no snare drum that sounds that way in reality. You hit a snare drum with a stick, and it doesn't sound like that. But, it's a record album and, when making records, we're not always going with reality - we're going with what makes a song sound the best we can make it mixed with a healthy does of artistic vision.
Gate 1: We gate the snare drum track(s) so that they're clean without interference from other drums bleeding through.
Assuming you have two snare drum tracks (top and bottom), group these together in a bus. Gating separately helps a lot because the bottom snare mic picks up more of the kick drum.
Compressor 1: This one might be optional, but let's use one to get the best natural sounding snare drum we can get to start with a good original signal. We might use parallel compression to really get it popping, but the main goal is to get a strong attack out of it and use a slower decay to "elongate" the signal by keeping the compression strong for a longer period of time.
Reverb 1: Use a big freakin' room setting with a short decay - short decay is important! It might be a good idea to run this in parallel so we have control over the dry and wet signals for fine tuning after we add the rest of the effects. We want an really thick sounding reverb, but we want it to decay pretty quickly because...
Gate 2: Set this gate to open really fast but to close fairly quickly as reverb 1 decays. The goal here is to use the reverb not as an ambient effect to simulate a room, but as something that adds "size" and "sustain" to the snare. Realistic room sound is not at all the objective - we'll add that later. By using a gate, we're cutting off the reverb trail at the point where we want it to no longer "sustain."
Compressor 2: Put the hammer down and compress the hell out of this but use a slow attack so as not to lose the initial hit of the snare; again, you might choose to use parallel compression in this spot as well but might not need it. What we're doing here is compressing the gated reverb signal so that that fast decay we set on the reverb it doesn't trail off fast but is held at a consistent level during the entire time that gate 2 is open. We needed to use the fast reverb decay in the first place so that gate 2 could close where we wanted it to without staying open longer than we want because of too long of a decay setting on the reverb.
We now have our big, fat, sustained snare sound.
Reverb 2: This is the reverb we use to add ambiance to the track as you would adding reverb to any other track.
That's a spicey meat-a-ball!
I'm not claiming this is exactly how Bob Clearmountain did it, but I think it's a pretty good guess.