CC #2 (Goldie) Pickups

bluesky636

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I've searched and searched and have come up with conflicting stories on the pickups in Goldie. Is the neck pickup a BB1 or BB3? Bridge BB1 or BB3? TIA
 

strat1701

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mine has NO STICKERS at all under the pickups. Not even the 'patent applied for'. Nothing, nada. There is a pic somewhere on here of it when I had them up and out. For sure the bridge is a bit more output than the neck, but not by much, so I would say BB1 in neck and BB3 in bridge.

found them



 

bluesky636

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And there-in lies the rub.

The Gibson web site for Goldie says this on the Home page:

"To recreate the tone of this rare Les Paul, Gibson Custom has selected a Burstbucker 1 for the bridge position and Burstbucker 3 for the neck, a pairing that accurately reflects the mismatch in output that was often found in original PAF sets. Together, they present a woody, throaty tone from the neck, and impressive chime and clarity from the bridge."

This contradicts the specification page. A search will show that some people believe the combination of neck/bridge is BB1/BB3 and other believe it is BB3/BB1.

Has anyone performed/can anyone perform a simple resistance measurement of each pickup at the output jack of their guitar? The measured values will be slightly lower than measuring the resistance of the pickups when removed from the guitar (due to interaction with the volume and tone controls) but will be close enough to tell which pickup is which.
 

strat1701

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I measure mine but I don't have the readings at the moment. They were in the mid to upper 7 range IIRC.
 

El Kabong

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Took these out of one of my Goldies...

8.90Ω BB3 Bridge
7.97Ω BB1 Neck

 

bluesky636

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Thanks for the info duaneflowers. I have played the real Goldie but unfortunately can't afford the CC version. I do have a very nice Epiphone 50th Anniversary 1960 Les Paul Standard V1 that came with a BB1 in the neck and BB2 in the bridge. I moved the BB2 to the neck and put a BB3 in the bridge which sounded good but was hard to balance. So I was interested in putting the BB1 back in the neck and keeping the BB3 in the bridge. I did and it really sounds great. About a 940 ohm difference between the BB1 and BB3. Very easy to balance and very nice tone. Glad I did it.



http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/epiphone-les-pauls/309187-almost-ngd-my-epiphone-1960-les-paul-standard-v1.html

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/vintage-les-pauls/336667-i-got-play-real-goldie.html
 

jlb32

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And there-in lies the rub.

The Gibson web site for Goldie says this on the Home page:

"To recreate the tone of this rare Les Paul, Gibson Custom has selected a Burstbucker 1 for the bridge position and Burstbucker 3 for the neck, a pairing that accurately reflects the mismatch in output that was often found in original PAF sets. Together, they present a woody, throaty tone from the neck, and impressive chime and clarity from the bridge."

This contradicts the specification page. A search will show that some people believe the combination of neck/bridge is BB1/BB3 and other believe it is BB3/BB1.
Gibson is known for making mistakes in their descriptions from time to time. Not sure who is responsible for the write ups but they don't get it right frequently.

Burstbucker 1 in the neck, Burstbucker 3 in the bridge IMO is more than likely the proper combo.
 

bluesky636

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Gibson is known for making mistakes in their descriptions from time to time. Not sure who is responsible for the write ups but they don't get it right frequently.

Burstbucker 1 in the neck, Burstbucker 3 in the bridge IMO is more than likely the proper combo.
Yup. But I have found threads that say the BB3 is in the neck. Guess they never looked or measured. The BB1/neck and BB3/bridge sounds really good in my Epiphone. Much better than the stock BB1/BB2 or my first mod of BB2/BB3 neck/bridge.
 

jamman

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Most likely , since The Original PAF's didn't have designations as to which position they went or Ohms #'s spec'd on them . The person who did the pup install, back in the day , Just grabbed (out of a bin of pups) and installed it .

I'd guess The pups in Goldie were just as Gibson wrote up . It would be 1 of the very few things , That would be easy to get right /Vintage correct .

It's well known that more then a few PAF's were install this way . No one checked things like this on the production line . Solder it , move it on to the next station :shock:
 

strat1701

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I just measured them-





They're pretty close, more bite and growl in the bridge but the neck is meaty too. As you saw mine don't have any stickers on them so who knows wtf these are. All I know is, BB1/BB3 or whatever they are, they sound good so they're stayin in there!
 

Steam

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It's well known that more then a few PAF's were install this way . No one checked things like this on the production line . Solder it , move it on to the next station :shock:

Should be really scary to the 'plastic fantastic' scene of the members here.
"Ouch, $ 250 for those lookalike volumepot-knobs?
Guess they make the guitar sound vintage."
 

bluesky636

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I just measured them-





They're pretty close, more bite and growl in the bridge but the neck is meaty too. As you saw mine don't have any stickers on them so who knows wtf these are. All I know is, BB1/BB3 or whatever they are, they sound good so they're stayin in there!
That's interesting. How do you have them adjusted relative to the strings? In my Epiphone, once the bridge was set to where it sounded good, the neck had to be set even with or just below the edge of the neck pickup ring regardless if it was a BB1/BB2 or BB2/BB3 combination. With a BB1/BB3 combo they are set almost exactly the same relative to the stings with the last fret depressed.
 

El Kabong

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I should be pulling the pickups out of my Aged Goldie tomorrow, so I'll see how they compare side by side with the first (Goldie Gloss) set...
 

El Kabong

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Got to it early... here are the Burstbuckers from the other Goldie... looks like the labels were actually removed for whatever reason... :hmm:

8.77Ω Bridge
8.59Ω Neck

 

bluesky636

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That's interesting. Assuming the pickups are all really BB1/BB3 combinations we have:

7.97K/8.9K for a difference of 930 ohms (DF #1)

7.72K/8.66K for a difference of 940 ohms (Me)

7.89K/7.93K for a difference of 40 ohms (strat1701)

8.59K/8.77K for a difference of 180 ohms (DF #2)

So BB1s run from a low of 7.72K to a high of 8.59K.

BB3s run from a low of 7.93K to a high of 8.9K.

The difference between BB1/BB3 pairs runs from a low of 40 ohms to a high of 940 ohms!

The Gibson website gives specs of 6.5K for a BB1 and 8.4K for a BB3 and a difference between the pair of 1.9K. Spec for a BB2 is 7.4K. I also notice that the specs given for the True Historics seem to be 8K for the neck and 8.5K for the bridge.

Given that modern winding machines are pretty accurate and consistent in their turn counts, either Gibson is deliberately winding to a "random" number of turns for each pickup or their QC is atrocious.
 

ajory72

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Just wondering if these are supposed to be "replicas" - best word I can think of - or say reproduction, I know they are mean tot be in the vein of the original, but apart from missing stickers didnt PAF's have nickle bobbin screw not brass?

I mean putting a Patent applied for sticker on a pickup they have patented seems like they are going to degrees of originality, so why miss the screw thing?

[take 0.001% mojo off these pick ups]

ps I am half serious - the answer is near enough is close enough...and one day....maybe one day... not only will our 50's reproductions have binding bleed, PAF stickers, but correct screws!!! :)
 

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