Bronze powder #256, what's the right quantity?

[Mojomojo]

Hi,
I recently bought on Ebay what I thought would be one dose of the bronze powder and I received about 5 pounds of the stuff in 2 metallic cans!
So how much of the powder is necessary for a Lespaul top?

 

[fatdaddypreacher]

i'm not sure, but i believe that's enough for at least one.

 

[Ripthorn]

I think I used something on the order of a couple teaspoons, no more than 2 tablespoons, for sure.

 

[Zeppelinguy685]

Yeah I had a similar experience buying way too much of it. You really only need a couple of teaspoons worth in about six ounces of lacquer to do a top. I ended up dividing it up and selling it cheap on Reverb in little 2 oz jars. I priced it so in the end I had a half a pound left over (a lifetime supply for me) and made my money back.

 

[cmjohnson]

For 8 ounces of 50/50 nitro, add 3 teaspoons of powder. That's enough to cover about eight square feet and get full coverage. Be aware, the leftover in the sprayer or can will oxidize and the clear lacquer will turn green in a matter of days. A very pretty shade of emerald green. So don't try to save the unsprayed material.

Credit to Lt. Dave for this information.

I'd be glad to buy some of that surplus powder off you.

 

[Mojomojo]

Thank you all for your replies!

 

[ARandall]

i'm not sure, but i believe that's enough for at least one.....

....car!!

Yes, way too much.

But there have been plenty of enquires about it here and there are always regulars who might want it for the future. So if you get the word out I'm sure you can sell/give it away to others here. Its been a long time since the last forum buy of the right flakes.

 

[fatdaddypreacher]

yeah...i have a fellow forum member friend gift me some a couple of years ago i have sealed away. i think he also said something like a couple of tablespoons will do a top. mine will probably go bad before i get to it.

 

[Mojomojo]

So if you get the word out I'm sure you can sell/give it away to others here. Its been a long time since the last forum buy of the right flakes.

I m located in Peru at the moment so cannot ship to the US, costs would be too high. I will be in France in May and am planning to sell it by small quantities on Ebay/Reverb.

 

[lowatter]

My aren't we international around these parts.

 

[LtDave32]

Take note:

Spraying #256 (3 tsp in 8 oz of NCL) may leave a sort of "black sand" appearance when freshly sprayed.

Don't worry about it, don't mess with it. That will go away as it dries.

 

[Mojomojo]

And what' s the correct proportion of nitro/thinner?

 

[LtDave32]

And what' s the correct proportion of nitro/thinner?

50/50.

Some lacquer comes spray-ready.

Some needs to be thinned.

If your NCL is thick like Karo syrup, then i is pure, unthinned NCL.

It will need to be thinned for spraying. The usual, "utility" mix for instruments is 50 / 50.

There are thinner mixes for top coats, "flash" coats, etc. But 50 / 50 lacquer will get you there just fine.

Now, I cannot stress this enough.. Use the recommended thinner for the lacquer you are using.

If it is Mohawk, call Mowhawk. get their correct specific thinner for that lacquer you are using.

Cardinal? Get the Cardinal thinner for that specific Cardinal lacquer.

The difference will be AMAZING. . Do not settle for the Home Depot, dry, cold, acetone-heavy "Kleen Strip".

The right stuff from the MFG is cheaper anyway. Night and day difference. Trust me.

Now, as to the spraying.

When you're all mixed up and ready to spray, give it a light dusting. An incomplete, voids and holidays, light dusting.

Do this.

Walk away. Resist temptation to put an even coat down right now, and walk away.

Revisit in an hour. Lay another coat down, this time a little bit thicker.

Walk, away..

Third time will get it where you want it. Buy the third coat, it will be rich and beautiful. Then you can start the top clear coating.

Reason being, a sag of clear with gold powder will look horrible. trust me, please. It will look like dookey.

Dusting a dry coat, then another, then another, this gets coverage (after the 2nd and third coat) without inviting any kind of sag.

You are spraying a vertical instrument where gravity is going to be a factor.

This is not like plain clear where you can let a run just dry out and sand it flat. You do not want a sag to happen.

 

[Mojomojo]

50/50.

Some lacquer comes spray-ready.

Some needs to be thinned.

If your NCL is thick like Karo syrup, then i is pure, unthinned NCL.

It will need to be thinned for spraying. The usual, "utility" mix for instruments is 50 / 50.

There are thinner mixes for top coats, "flash" coats, etc. But 50 / 50 lacquer will get you there just fine.

Now, I cannot stress this enough.. Use the recommended thinner for the lacquer you are using.

If it is Mohawk, call Mowhawk. get their correct specific thinner for that lacquer you are using.

Cardinal? Get the Cardinal thinner for that specific Cardinal lacquer.

The difference will be AMAZING. . Do not settle for the Home Depot, dry, cold, acetone-heavy "Kleen Strip".

The right stuff from the MFG is cheaper anyway. Night and day difference. Trust me.

Now, as to the spraying.

When you're all mixed up and ready to spray, give it a light dusting. An incomplete, voids and holidays, light dusting.

Do this.

Walk away. Resist temptation to put an even coat down right now, and walk away.

Revisit in an hour. Lay another coat down, this time a little bit thicker.

Walk, away..

Third time will get it where you want it. Buy the third coat, it will be rich and beautiful. Then you can start the top clear coating.

Reason being, a sag of clear with gold powder will look horrible. trust me, please. It will look like dookey.

Dusting a dry coat, then another, then another, this gets coverage (after the 2nd and third coat) without inviting any kind of sag.

You are spraying a vertical instrument where gravity is going to be a factor.

This is not like plain clear where you can let a run just dry out and sand it flat. You do not want a sag to happen.

That' s great info, thanks for that!
How quick do I have to use the mix before it starts to oxydize and turn green?
Btw Lt Dave, your website doesn' t seem to work, I was curious to have a look at your work, I ve read great things about your guitars.

 

[LtDave32]

That' s great info, thanks for that!
How quick do I have to use the mix before it starts to oxydize and turn green?
Btw Lt Dave, your website doesn' t seem to work, I was curious to have a look at your work, I ve read great things about your guitars.

Well you see, I know as much about website design and function as I know about microbiology. I suck at it.

So I went to Yahoo Business, did a DIY "thing" from there. The templates absolutely sucked, the webpage sucked, I was not happy.

-So I let it run itself out of time. I have something in the works with a friend who's well-adept at design, placement and getting "hits" and such. I'll be paying her to take care of it all.

Just as soon as my business slows down a bit. Right now I'm swamped. Just starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Far as the shelf life of the bronze mix..

It's only 3 tsp in 8 0z of lacquer. I'd mix it the hour I'm going to spray it. One thing will become very apparent after your shot; the under surface needs to be perfect.

I mean perfect. What I would recommend to do is shoot a "guide coat" of grey (so you can see it) primer sealer across the top, look for any imperfections, fix them, primer again, look for anything else.

When there is nothing else to be seen, it will be ready for your GT finish.


I'd toss it after a few days. The only reason to keep it is to do the entire spray job over again. And you might not have enough left over.

One can of #256 will give you a lifetime of GT finishes. It's a 1 lb can.