Bourns Pots arrived in the mail today

Dcbois

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I've compared the carbon trace to the polymer elements in guitars and found no immediate difference in the sound itself. The polymer elements seem easier for them to taper smoothly.

I use Bourns 500k push pulls in my LP now. They are of a much higher quality than the push pulls I replaced with them. The original push pulls were not Alpha or CTS, and performed poorly (scratchy and poor taper).

The sealed pots seems to make good sense for guitar. I like that you have three options on rotational tension.

I've also used them on pedal builds and consider them a great option, even compared to solid manufacturers like Alpha and CTS. Outside of these main three manufacturers (all good), I've found tolerances are lower and the taper in the carbon has less resolution (where the taper seems to have noticeable "steps").
I am thinking of installing one in my Ibanez RG770. Is it actually push pull or is it push push? You are happy with these?
Thanks..
 

jonesy

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I know it's been a while since I posted on this thread, and I just wanted to get back to you on the Bourns Pots. They are well designed and offer a wide variety of applications and styles. To be honest I have still been using good ol brand X on all my vintage style harness builds because that is what works out best for me. But I have recently been building some foot pedals. :naughty: and I think that the Bourns pots would be an ideal choice for them. The blue and black 82's and 95's are sealed so no dust can get in and they take up less room than a full sized pot. And the mini pots are also the perfect size for foot pedal enclosures and come with solid shaft so I can use the chicken head knobs. Thanks again to Bourns and again this is just my opinion YMMV.

jonesy
 

gadgetfreak

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I just recieved a wiring harness with bourns pot's wired in and I don't have anything but stock epi and cts to comare too, but the way the knobs roll back is pure fun, seriously they sound dead silent and the taper is amazing, I have never rolled back a pot so easy.

Again I am noobish to all this, I know tone and I know feel, so I can tell you they feel and sound great, but like I said I'm only comparing to limited field. With that said, there going in my Sg and my Sheraton ll
 

E.X

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I apologise for the thread resurrecting but if one Googles Bourns pots, this remains one of the first results shown, meaning folks still read this today.
As such, if i may correct certain assumptions regarding the 82 and 95 models for the benefit of others. Assumptions made both here and in another "review" that's linked by the OP.

- The OP here mentions the possibility of the pots melting of all things. As always when science's involved, we read the manual. Specsheet, should one have bothered to read it of course, dictates all manner of tolerances. But suffice it to say that barring a steady, persistent blowtorch bathing, the pots won't be harmed.
- The review the OP links from here states proudly that to the reviewer's (infinite am sure) understanding, no difference exists between Vintage and Premium other than their having different 'feet'. Their main difference is actually the tolerance, with the Vintage having half that of the Premium, hence the near double pricing. That's a good thing by the way. The 'feet' are an extra.
- Bears mentioning that company to company, measurements and testing criteria may vary. Without naming the offended brands (albeit you can Google this too), let us merely say that when Bourns says 10%, they mean exactly that. Others get a loose 13 or 14%, which they brand as "10", or have laxer requirements from the getgo.
- Resident experts whose comments may be found during other Google results (say in a certain thread in the GearPage forum) mention the Bourns' polymer element casing as a negative, preferring the tin encasing used by other brands. Once again, science. Really. I know it's mostly musicians and young people, but.. even so.
- Lastly and still in the subject of resident experts' comments, the pots are not merely sealed, but also internally grounded. That too is a good thing. Very.

End of facts. Once again, sincere apologies for the /necroing, but.. there's wrong and then there's cringe-worthy. Sorry :)
(as to how they sound compared to other pots, different topic plus i wanted to keep it objective)
 
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WannaLesPaul

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I apologise for the thread resurrecting but if one Googles Bourns pots, this remains one of the first results shown, meaning folks still read this today.
As such, if i may correct certain assumptions regarding the 82 and 95 models for the benefit of others. Assumptions made both here and in another "review" that's linked by the OP.

- The OP here mentions the possibility of the pots melting of all things. As always when science's involved, we read the manual. Specsheet, should one have bothered to read it of course, dictates all manner of tolerances. But suffice it to say that barring a steady, persistent blowtorch bathing, the pots won't be harmed.
- The review the OP links from here states proudly that to the reviewer's (infinite am sure) understanding, no difference exists between Vintage and Premium other than their having different 'feet'. Their main difference is actually the tolerance, with the Vintage having half that of the Premium, hence the near double pricing. That's a good thing by the way. The 'feet' are an extra.
- Bears mentioning that company to company, measurements and testing criteria may vary. Without naming the offended brands (albeit you can Google this too), let us merely say that when Bourns says 10%, they mean exactly that. Others get a loose 13 or 14%, which they brand as "10", or have laxer requirements from the getgo.
- Resident experts whose comments may be found during other Google results (say in a certain thread in the GearPage forum) mention the Bourns' polymer element casing as a negative, preferring the tin encasing used by other brands. Once again, science. Really. I know it's mostly musicians and young people, but.. even so.
- Lastly and still in the subject of resident experts' comments, the pots are not merely sealed, but also internally grounded. That too is a good thing. Very.

End of facts. Once again, sincere apologies for the /necroing, but.. there's wrong and then there's cringe-worthy. Sorry :)
(as to how they sound compared to other pots, different topic plus i wanted to keep it objective)
"when Bourns says 10%, they mean exactly that. Others get a loose 13 or 14%, which they brand as "10", or have laxer requirements from the getgo."

ahem... :rolleyes: "Just received these. Easily passed the eye test. Look like great quality. Rotation feels super slick. They are marked D500K. Had to look that up. Never saw a D taper before. Tested the 1st two, 520k and 510k. Oh cool... looking good! 3rd one 480k, not bad. The freakin last one, 410k :rolleyes: out of spec." (-18%)
 

cooljuk

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I apologise for the thread resurrecting but if one Googles Bourns pots, this remains one of the first results shown, meaning folks still read this today.
As such, if i may correct certain assumptions regarding the 82 and 95 models for the benefit of others. Assumptions made both here and in another "review" that's linked by the OP.

- The OP here mentions the possibility of the pots melting of all things. As always when science's involved, we read the manual. Specsheet, should one have bothered to read it of course, dictates all manner of tolerances. But suffice it to say that barring a steady, persistent blowtorch bathing, the pots won't be harmed.
- The review the OP links from here states proudly that to the reviewer's (infinite am sure) understanding, no difference exists between Vintage and Premium other than their having different 'feet'. Their main difference is actually the tolerance, with the Vintage having half that of the Premium, hence the near double pricing. That's a good thing by the way. The 'feet' are an extra.
- Bears mentioning that company to company, measurements and testing criteria may vary. Without naming the offended brands (albeit you can Google this too), let us merely say that when Bourns says 10%, they mean exactly that. Others get a loose 13 or 14%, which they brand as "10", or have laxer requirements from the getgo.
- Resident experts whose comments may be found during other Google results (say in a certain thread in the GearPage forum) mention the Bourns' polymer element casing as a negative, preferring the tin encasing used by other brands. Once again, science. Really. I know it's mostly musicians and young people, but.. even so.
- Lastly and still in the subject of resident experts' comments, the pots are not merely sealed, but also internally grounded. That too is a good thing. Very.

End of facts. Once again, sincere apologies for the /necroing, but.. there's wrong and then there's cringe-worthy. Sorry :)
(as to how they sound compared to other pots, different topic plus i wanted to keep it objective)
Why would a “vintage” pot have a tighter tolerance and why would tighter tolerance be considered desirable for guitar work?
 

E.X

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Just received these
Not sure which model you're referring to am afraid and there's a big difference, 10% vs 20%
But regardless of the variant and since we're at it.

Assume 500K and a 10% tolerance. This (tolerance) means two things, not one:

i) Variation in the actual end value, in this particular instance, 500 +/- 500*10/100 = 450 to 550K
Anything within that range is good and as promised. Your 480K as such is a good, acceptable value. Your 410K would be out of spec indeed (again though, if the tolerance is 10%. That's the blue one, aka 'Vintage'. The black one, aka 'Premium', has twenty. You do not mention which one you have).
* This in ideal conditions, as your multimeter has tolerances of its own. Am not here to defend a brand i'm not affiliated with, but if you have a bad or even average meter.. moot. Check what its margin of error is, you might be surprised. You'd need to add your meter's tolerances on top of the pots' tolerances, then do the math again. While connected, the multimeter's part of the chain, so you cannot exclude it from your measurements. Albeit yes, most folks unfortunately do. There are no perfect instruments!
** Also, temperature conditions do affect readings, as they relate to entropy, transconductance/transadmittance, etc.. It being why they also affect the actual performance of the devices. Not being pissy, but might as well type all this for anyone else reading.

ii) That between any two different pots of the same model, the resistance measured at the exact same rotational spot (ie that's the one you can't really measure with accuracy) on both pots would be not identical, but also within a 10% tolerance -ie margin of error- from one another. Think of it as 'sonic consistency'.

why would tighter tolerance be considered desirable for guitar work?
The above should help illustrate, but in short, because the higher the margin of error, the more disparate the sonic results, potentially to a degree where they would be noticeable.
All that said, this is not the factor, others considerations need be taken, but it is an important one.

And i don't know why they'd call it 'Vintage', marketing am guessing? :)
 
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cooljuk

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No, that answer doesn't help. Why would having pots with a tighter tolerance be a benefit in a guitar?

You didn't answer this - Why does a "vintage" pot have a tighter tolerance than a "premium" pot?
 

WannaLesPaul

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Not sure which model you're referring to am afraid and there's a big difference, 10% vs 20%
But regardless of the variant and since we're at it.

Assume 500K and a 10% tolerance. This (tolerance) means two things, not one:

i) Variation in the actual end value, in this particular instance, 500 +/- 500*10/100 = 450 to 550K
Anything within that range is good and as promised. Your 480K as such is a good, acceptable value. Your 410K would be out of spec indeed (again though, if the tolerance is 10%. That's the blue one, aka 'Vintage'. The black one, aka 'Premium', has twenty. You do not mention which one you have).
* This in ideal conditions, as your multimeter has tolerances of its own. Am not here to defend a brand i'm not affiliated with, but if you have a bad or even average meter.. moot. Check what its margin of error is, you might be surprised. You'd need to add your meter's tolerances on top of the pots' tolerances, then do the math again. While connected, the multimeter's part of the chain, so you cannot exclude it from your measurements. Albeit yes, most folks unfortunately do. There are no perfect instruments!
** Also, temperature conditions do affect readings, as they relate to entropy, transconductance/transadmittance, etc.. It being why they also affect the actual performance of the devices. Not being pissy, but might as well type all this for anyone else reading.

ii) That between any two different pots of the same model, the resistance measured at the exact same rotational spot (ie that's the one you can't really measure with accuracy) on both pots would be not identical, but also within a 10% tolerance -ie margin of error- from one another. Think of it as 'sonic consistency'.



The above should help illustrate, but in short, because the higher the margin of error, the more disparate the sonic results, potentially to a degree where they would be noticeable.
All that said, this is not the factor, others considerations need be taken, but it is an important one.

And i don't know why they'd call it 'Vintage', marketing am guessing? :)
These pots are not rated at 10% or 20% They are supposed to be 15%, so 410k is -18%. and you attribute that to my meter being off by 15,000 ohms? LOL ok Mr. Bourns... I apologize for assuming that your company would EVER ship a unit that is out of spec :doh:
 

E.X

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LOL ok Mr. Bourns... I apologize for assuming that your company would EVER ship a unit that is out of spec :doh:
This kind of attitude, you better be 15 years old; for your sake that is, not mine.
i) you're here discussing a pot you own that is neither the black nor the blue (them two being the topic of this thread); ie you came here to post somehting entirely unrelated. Different lineup, different construction, different material quality. Yet here you are, playing it smart.
ii) you can't even do that well enough on your own, you need be prompted to state the obvious so others may know what you're talking about.
iii) after being thus encouraged, you still fail to do the obvious, as you do name (finally) the source of your laments, but fail to tell us how good your meter is, because multimeter to multimeter, from 5 to 1000 bucks, there can be a diference. In tolerance! See how that keeps creeping back in?
iv) i respond politely and regardless. With numbers, so as to assist.
v) you post back with memes and retarded accusations. Congratulations i guess.

We're talking percentages here. Terms such as multiplicative, cumulative, etc., case depending, spring to one's mind. Now you have every reason to be incapable of grasping the basics, happens to some one imagines.
But please refrain from juvenile attacks. My posts were not made for your benefit, sorry to break it to you. Everything you need to make an informed decision has already been mentioned.
Give yourself a decade or more and come back when you've grown up a bit, notice how i refrain from stating anything that may be considered subjective. Notice how all you got out of it is that i'm all of a sudden "Mr. Bourns".

A very good evening to you.
 

WannaLesPaul

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Dude... you're really a legend in your own mind aren't you? I'm soooooo HURT! :D

i) you're here discussing a pot you own that is neither the black nor the blue (them two being the topic of this thread); ie you came here to post somehting entirely unrelated.

Huh ? Unrelated? In your original post, you said "when BOURNS says 10%, they mean exactly that"
Not black pots, not blue pots.... but BOURNS (period) says

I merely copied your quote and showed you that it aint exactly true. So, you chose to get all butthurt and launch another half page diatribe of insults. :rolleyes: please GFY

and the funny part is that, resistance spec aside... I really like these pots :laugh2:
 


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