Body blank: full chunk or multiple pieces???

LPBR

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Hey friends!

Finally am ready to start my first guitar building project (that I will post here) and the very first step is to buy the blank for the body. Since I am in Brasil I will use a regional wood.

My question is about the blank configuration itself. Is not hard to me to get a full chunk of wood in the lumber store next corner. The problem is that I have read out there that one of the reasons why guitar makers uses multiple pieces is to avoid wood bending.

I wouldn't know to balance how much marketing and how much truth there is in this affirmative. While I imagine how hard is to big brands to achieve huge loads of full-blanks to feed their demand by the other hand I know that wood bending is part of life. However not being a wood master sometimes is a bit hard to me to believe that a such small chunk with good 1 3/4" in thick will bend.

Anyway, I have seen here and there some articles saying that when you have an unique chunk it would be safer to cut it and glue back the pieces together claiming that this way it won't bend. Again, dunno if this is just a myth.

What do you guys think about this?

:hmm:
 

ARandall

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There can certainly be some movement in wood. This was one of the claims made for the laminate bodies Gibson did in the early 70's. G&L also saw their necks down the middle and glue them together again - so they don't twist.

If in doubt, go 2 piece. If you get the 2 halves from the same block then they will have the best chance of mating sonically
 

emoney

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I'd think the big thing is making sure the wood is dry. I've got a few one piece bodies and none have moved. Like you say, the thicker it is, the more difficult I'd imagine. And, if you're going traditional LP style with a different species on the top then both piece would need to warp the same way.
 

LPBR

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Thanks for the input, fellows!

:thumb:

The guy whose I am willing to buy the chunk ensured me that it is super-dry. I actually gave up to pick the chunk from the lumber store because I remembered that the one in town that has the blank I need keep all their gross lumber in weather.

:facepalm:

Anyway, I am going to build a LP Special replica, so no top here, and therefore I will be depending exclusively on have luck with the main (and only) chunk.

I am seriously thinking on cut the chunk in the middle and then rejoin the two halves together.

:hmm:
 

fatdaddypreacher

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my woodworking experience is primarily in furniture, so the end appearance isn't as critical as in guitars, as many people focus on the one pc/multi pc aspect when looking at a guitar, color match, grain pattern, etc...but speaking strictly from a wood and stability point of view, let me over this. So much depends on the specie and quality of the piece, combined with how it was cut (face, quarter...whatever). the more stable piece would be two or even three pieces, even if it means it is one larger piece cut and reglued. from a structural standpoint, it is my opinion that one would be better served to take a slab, cut it in equal thirds, and flipping the center piece to change the grain direction. let me remind you that i speak solely from a structural stand point. the personal taste side of me says...............never cut a wide board unless absolutely necessary!.

i know this doesn't really answer your question, but i suppose where i'm going with this is; at the end of the day, what is more important to you. the off chance that it may cup or warp, or the asthetics of a one piece, seamless look.

i have done several one piece backs of spanish cedar, but the wood quality was very good. however, i always make it a practice of glueing up 3 piece neck blanks.
 

Spencer

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Starting with dry wood is obviously best, but it's important to remember equilibrium moisture content and how wood moves compared to how your piece is sawn. This is a decent reference:

http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/2_Wood_Movement/2_Wood_Movement.htm

Bruce Hoadley's book Understanding Wood is great if you don't own it.

I'd also suggest getting familiar with pith and what happens if it's part of your board. Likewise familiar with quartersawn vs. flatsawn. Lastly movement due to moisture with your particular wood species you'll be using, since some species move around much more than others. I saw my own lumber and have learned a lot over the last few years doing so. Both by trial and error and in reading up on it.
 

LPBR

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Being an amateur carpenter unfortunately to saw my own wood is not an option for me. I have a small wood shop in home for weekend jobs equiped with very small machinery, so basically all the lumber I get comes from the lumber store and normally I prefer the flattened planks ready to be worked.

Specifically for the case of my new project my concern is too much more structural than aesthetical, what means that I don't care if the guitar body has a visible seam. Actually the wood species I am going to use has very long grain pattern so I am confident that the join won't be too noticeable.

I have built some furniture with spanish cedar using joined planks that you barely notice that it is not an entire big slab.

So, I think that I will go for two pieces glued together!

:thumb:
 

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