Binding separation problem on Japanese Orville LP Customs

darkvoice

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I've been browsing the web for some Japanese Orville by Gibson guitars and noticed that some of them have binding defects. Plastic binding either starts to separate from the body (developing a gap along the binding) or it breaks into layers (it's a 3-ply on the back and 4-ply binding on front).

How common is this problem? If one gets a guitar with such binding issues - what's the remedy for this? Can it repaired and how?

These guitars are about 30 years old, does this mean that other LP Customs of this age or older also have or will develop similar issues with the binding? Is this problem unique to Orville only or is it observed on other Japanese LP Customs as well?

Is this a problem for American Gibson LP Customs too?
 
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nopea

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I have played a many Orvilles, Burny's, Greco black beauties over the years while browsing the local second hand shops here in Japan, I have yet to see this issue once, so I wouldn't think it is common.

My 1999 Dyna Gakki made Burny RLC (John Sykes) does not have such an issue.
 

Roxy13

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The only ones I've seen with the cracked binding are some from the 70s that used celluloid. Most that I've seen are Greco and Aria Pro II. I have one of each actually. The Aria's binding has off gassed so badly it rotted. I'm in the process of getting it off to replace it, but on the poly finished guitars this is a massive pain in the butt, and very time consuming.

I've never seen it on a Fujigen built guitar after 1980.

Here is my Aria so you can how extreme it was.

ariaviolincustom5.jpg
 

m5570

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Why don’t you post some photo examples of what you’re talking about as I’ve never seen it on an Orville either. I have a couple Aria’s that do but no Os.
 

Troy McClure

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Japan has a humid climate so probably where the guitars ended up in a much dryer climate and the wood's shrunk. What's the humidity like where you live? Could probably superglue and clamp the binding back to the fret board and drop fill the body binding with black CA glue if they bother you too much. Post them up on the luthiers section of the forum as I'm sure they'd be able to talk you thru any procedures if you want to sort them.

Had a few ObG's and never come across it in the UK .
 

kakerlak

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Here are some examples.

Photo 1: binding separation in the cut area by the neck:
View attachment 570822

Photo 2: separation of layers in the binding:
View attachment 570823

Photo 3: separation of binding on the side:
View attachment 570824

Photo 4: separation of binding on the neck:
View attachment 570825
Ah, that's like old Guilds, whereas the stuff Roxy posted is like old Gretsches. IMO, I don't think you have to worry about the from-the-inside-out crumbling, staining of adjacent finish, and oxidization of nearby hardware with binding that's simply shrinking and pulling away in the cutaways.

You may be able to get away with heating it up and gluing it back down, though it being so many plies probably works against you getting it to stretch back in place. The other option is to cut it, glue down the loose sections and then fill the gap from the cutline, though, again, being so many plies works against achieving a slick result.

But it's not a time bomb that warrants stripping it all off to protect the guitar itself.

I don't know what it is about different plastics. Some seems fully stable for decades (Gibson got lucky), some shrinks, but stays whole and some crumbles.
 

darkvoice

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Japan has a humid climate so probably where the guitars ended up in a much dryer climate and the wood's shrunk. What's the humidity like where you live? Could probably superglue and clamp the binding back to the fret board and drop fill the body binding with black CA glue if they bother you too much. Post them up on the luthiers section of the forum as I'm sure they'd be able to talk you thru any procedures if you want to sort them.

Had a few ObG's and never come across it in the UK .
would it help to re-humidify guitar by placing it into a case with high humidity?
 

Roxy13

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Yeah, celluloid is a time bomb lol. It can eat hardware and frets. I've seen celluloid pickguards that ate through the lining in the top of the case.

OP, I would fill those in myself with either clear CA and clamp it all back down if possible. If it won't budge with clamping then I'd use the black CA to fill in the gaps, and strip sand and polish once it's all built up.
 

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