Attempting harness with new soldering Iron. Advice?

Oldskoolrob

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Howdy,
Despite the many great offers here (of pre-made harness') I've had in PM's I'm going to foolishly attempt to build my own harness. I had a crack and it's buzzing like all ****. So I've bought a better iron (station as opposed to wand) and some better solder etc. New iron has variable temp - what temperature should I use, and what advice would you give for me to get a good ground on the pots?
Cheers,
Rob.
 
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sadmoodyfrazier

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Polish back of the pots to shine with a nail buffer and the solder will stick to it like hell to have that beautiful kind of solder point. I'm not comfortable with variable temperature soldering stations. I've alway used cheap 6 euros orange soldering iron and I've made the best things with that ones. The only time I've tried to use a soldering station I was going mad with solder not sticking so I've just abandoned that kind of tool.
 

ARandall

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380 C is about a good temp....especially for pot backs.

A good joint will melt the solder so its a smooth flat puddle. So 5 seconds on the items on the pot casing to heat them, then add the solder into the equation.
 

Oldskoolrob

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Ok cheers - so just out of curiosity (judging my old iron) if it's more than 5 seconds it's probably too cold?

Can I just 're-heat' my joints I did with the old iron or do I need to disassemble and start again?
 

ARandall

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Well, put the temp to where I suggested and you'll find generally you're fine.
The old joints might flow, but I'd get a solder sucker anyhow just to mop up the excess. New solder coming from the top of the joint will be better than trying to get old stuff to draw upwards anyhow.
Be aware that you could have fried internals with the slow heat of an underpowered iron.
 

geddy

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Take a look at the videos six string supplies have on you tube....they're pretty informative.

Eg

 

charlie chitlins

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Turn the pots to 0 before soldering.
Get 60/40 solder.
I crank my iron all the way up to minimize time.
Lay the whole taper of the iron against the pot for max heat transfer.
No need to sand or otherwise prep the pot.
Solder sticks to the plating. If you sand through it, solder will not stick to steel.
 

Freddy G

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Turn the pots to 0 before soldering.
Get 60/40 solder.
I crank my iron all the way up to minimize time.
Lay the whole taper of the iron against the pot for max heat transfer.
No need to sand or otherwise prep the pot.
Solder sticks to the plating. If you sand through it, solder will not stick to steel.
All of this^
 

Pappy35

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I went all hog wild when I did my upgrade recently bought a nice, temperature-controlled, soldering station, and got a roll of Kester 63/37 solder (I bought a roll but this size would be cheaper). This was a game-changer because it does not have a plastic phase when cooling, it goes from a molten phase directly to a solid phase (I think this called a eutectic metal). The practical effect is greatly reducing the chances of a cold solder joint.

I used a wedge-shaped soldering tip that was 4mm wide so there's lots of surface area to quickly transfer heat to the pot case. The key is to get the case hot, fast. I set the temperature to 350C, and dropped the solder in, and got out. That way you don't dump too much heat into it which will cook the resistor material. I ruined a pot like this. Buy an extra pot or use one of the old ones to practice.

Final tip, I cleaned the pot casing with rubbing alcohol to get skin oils off of it and used flux. Having said that, I think this wasn't necessary but I wanted to try the stuff and it worked really great.
 

Oldskoolrob

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Thanks for the advice. I jumped in with the new iron and re did all my earth joints - no more buzz! Hopefully tonight i'll get the chance to have a play and see if I've wrecked any pots lol! New temp control iron definitely made the job easier than the old wand.
 


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