Are amps like V8’s?

LeftyF2003

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2010
Messages
8,037
Reaction score
9,773
There ain't no substitute for cubic inches.
There is no substitute for moving air.

The speaker cone needs to "work"... and multiple-driver cabinets such as a 212 and 410 do work against us when trying to get good "bedroom" levels.
We are moving 2x or 4x as much air as we really need to, when we are in an environment where we don't need the SPL or dispersion of 2 or 4 drivers.

But the cabinet dimensions also color the tone. The Blues Junior get such mixed reviews because the cabinet, even though it is open-back, is really too small for the 12" speaker. It would sound much better with a 10... or with a larger cabinet.
My Carvin X100 is a 1-12 combo, but the cabinet is the same size as the 4x10 that I built to match it.
By comparison, the Blues Junior is so small that some speaker magnets will hit the components.

Small amps can absolutely sound great.
The tweed Fender 5E3 is probably one of the most recorded amps in classic rock.
The ender 5F1 and 5F2-A Champ and Princeton are right up there, being very commonly heard on American rock albums... yet they are 5w and 15w amps.
Ted Nugen had an old Gibson GA5 cranked into a lot of his mixes to provide a little more dirt on top of his Twins and Showman heads.

The more cones you have, the more air you need to move to get them to sound good.
Like your car works best when it's in the band between peak torque and peak HP, speakers also need to be in the zone... and like engines, they sound awesome right before they blow up :D

Drop back to a 1-12 or even a 1-10 cabinet, and elevate the cabinet off of the floor, and move it away from the wall.
Angle it so the driver is pointed more at you... high frequencies are very directional, and when the speaker is blasting past your ankles, it can sound muffled and muddy.
Like a high horsepower small block, a small amp with an efficient speaker will go a long way. I use a DRRI with a Celestion G12-30 at big outdoor shows and have no problem with monitoring. As to my V8 - 1970 GM LT1 1st gen in a '69 Camaro running at spec getting 350 HP to the tires... The car balances much better than a big block and still puts out enough HP to move this thing like it's ass was on fire so, what's not to like? :)

 
Last edited:

Brek

Senior Member
Joined
May 15, 2020
Messages
919
Reaction score
731
100 DBs without protection, over even moderate periods = hearing loss.
WHAT?

already lost a fair bit from days spent shooting shotty's all day with no protection in my yoof. regrets? yup. put it this way 100db does not sound loud, oh penny dropped, this explains why my wife screams at me to turn it down lol. My high end cuts of at 14,000 khz last time I checked.
 

Brek

Senior Member
Joined
May 15, 2020
Messages
919
Reaction score
731
oh god, the neighbours, they will have heard the opening rif for black dog more times than Page.
 

CB91710

Silver Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
5,758
Reaction score
11,211
WHAT?

already lost a fair bit from days spent shooting shotty's all day with no protection in my yoof. regrets? yup. put it this way 100db does not sound loud, oh penny dropped, this explains why my wife screams at me to turn it down lol. My high end cuts of at 14,000 khz last time I checked.
I can't hear anything over 7khz when I pull up tone sweeps on web pages.
Whether I don't hear it, or it's buried in the tinnitus, I'm not sure... 7-9khz there's a "presence" that I can sense, but I wouldn't call it "hearing"
My wife goes apeshit like a dog if I play a 14khz tone. The whistle from the engines spooling up in the movie Top Gun bother her.
 

Brek

Senior Member
Joined
May 15, 2020
Messages
919
Reaction score
731
I would like to do a test again as last proper one was in 2007, I test my frequency with some on line test, prolly not 100% but enough I guess.
 

Brek

Senior Member
Joined
May 15, 2020
Messages
919
Reaction score
731
Had a session with the origin 5 today with the new tele style guitar, used the spl meter the whole time and sobering findings. I am often exceeding 100db at 1 meter, and have been ignoring the ringing in my ears after playing. Really ‘kin stupid. Me hearing is down already and been risking making it even worse. That little origin even with low power selected, volume at 9 o’clock which is barely on (kid you not) is over 100db with the alnico blues, man, did not think about that when building the cab for my playing use. I think the way forward is to make a mini stack with 2 of the celestion ten 30’s which will give a 16ohm load for the origin to drive. The are 5db less at 1m against the alnico’ s. They have a modern sound so will see what the 10 band eq does to tune them. All the amps mentioned are all superb but leave me in same boat. that I cannot, in that room use that volume at all. I am going to order a set of those waza air headphones and dip my toe into the water re modelling. Will allow late night playing in the lounge so I don;t disturb anyone. The laney lionheart 5w studio head was a very interesting proposition, decent design and a built in remap circuit. If I can sell one of the Marshall’s might look to get one of them. I have a cheeky bid on a Marshall one watter if I can bag that at a good price might just moth ball the class 5 and origin 5 whilst I try and sell them, and have 1w as the plug and play into a speaker amp with a couple of pedals in front.
 

CB91710

Silver Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
5,758
Reaction score
11,211
Had a session with the origin 5 today with the new tele style guitar, used the spl meter the whole time and sobering findings. I am often exceeding 100db at 1 meter, and have been ignoring the ringing in my ears after playing. Really ‘kin stupid. Me hearing is down already and been risking making it even worse. That little origin even with low power selected, volume at 9 o’clock which is barely on (kid you not) is over 100db with the alnico blues, man, did not think about that when building the cab for my playing use.
That's a lot better than me sitting on the edge of my bed in front of a Peavey Deuce with a 4x12 under it (so 6 12's) with that 120w amp dimed ;)

It really doesn't take a lot to hit 100db. My '08 Tacoma was 96db in the cab on the freeway.
I actually think a lot of my hearing damage is from wind noise riding motorcycles.
 

MW110

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2016
Messages
29
Reaction score
24
I had the same issue...had!
I tried lots of different tubeamps, stock Marshalls from 1W to 50W, Origin, SV20, JMP1, JTM1.....many different boutique amps like Carr Mercury V, Kool, Dr. Z, Two Rock, ....you name it, I checked it.

After 3 years of intense search I think (hope) I am done.
The best amp for low volume rock tones is the Cornell Plexi 7. It is a heandwired ptp, non mastervol tubeamp, that has four different power settings. 7w, 1,5w, 0,25w and 0,05w.
It sounds very close to real Plexi. It takes boosters and overdrive pedals very well, but is a bit weak on the clean side. I got two 1x12 cabs loaded with old Celestion G12H-30 (55hz) Blackbacks and it sounds amazing!!! Btw, the volume is lower with two cabs connected than with just one cab alone.

To get a wispering low volume level with saturated poweramp tube I also use an Aracom power attenuator. It is all analog and the best money can buy.

I hope that helps. If you have any questions, let me know.
Cheers from Germany, Mario.
 

baileyboy1

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
97
Reaction score
117
You’re looking for a a reasonable-volume 60’s/70’s classic rock machine, right? If you want an affordable option that does this well, look on your local used market for a Peavey Classic 30. Seriously - in addition to the Classic 30, I have much more expensive amps...a Mesa Mark V, a Mesa Rectoverb, and an EVH 5150 iii 50watt head. At the price point for classic rock tones, the Classic 30 holds its own. Put a boost or mild OD in front and you can go into tasty higher gain tones as well. You won’t get 3x the Classic rock tone at 3x the price. I’ve done that search before...
 
Last edited:

jwalker99

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2016
Messages
7
Reaction score
3
Generally I agree that the best digital modelers are great for closely replicating and recording the sound and feel of a big amp cranked with headphones on. Fractal Fm3, Kemper and also the Universal Audio OX are the top products IMHO. If you want big sound in the room then get a Kemper Kabinet or any FRFS powered clean speaker or just studio monitors.

Ironically, I Was able to get BIG recorded sound from a miniature VOX AC 50 watt mostly digital amp w "Nutube" in the preamp section. I tried it with the universal Audio OX smart attentuator.

This is the tiny amp, about the size of a medium size pedal. https://voxamps.com/series/mv50/

I have used several vintage amps with the OX and they all sound good. But wasnt expecting such fine tone with a tiny head. Works well with the vintage 12 inch cab, 4x10 tweed and the cleaner marshall 4x10s.
 

cybermgk

Singin' the body lectric
Silver Supporting Member
Gold Supporting Member
V.I.P. Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2011
Messages
14,792
Reaction score
20,796
Had a session with the origin 5 today with the new tele style guitar, used the spl meter the whole time and sobering findings. I am often exceeding 100db at 1 meter, and have been ignoring the ringing in my ears after playing. Really ‘kin stupid. Me hearing is down already and been risking making it even worse. That little origin even with low power selected, volume at 9 o’clock which is barely on (kid you not) is over 100db with the alnico blues, man, did not think about that when building the cab for my playing use. I think the way forward is to make a mini stack with 2 of the celestion ten 30’s which will give a 16ohm load for the origin to drive. The are 5db less at 1m against the alnico’ s. They have a modern sound so will see what the 10 band eq does to tune them. All the amps mentioned are all superb but leave me in same boat. that I cannot, in that room use that volume at all. I am going to order a set of those waza air headphones and dip my toe into the water re modelling. Will allow late night playing in the lounge so I don;t disturb anyone. The laney lionheart 5w studio head was a very interesting proposition, decent design and a built in remap circuit. If I can sell one of the Marshall’s might look to get one of them. I have a cheeky bid on a Marshall one watter if I can bag that at a good price might just moth ball the class 5 and origin 5 whilst I try and sell them, and have 1w as the plug and play into a speaker amp with a couple of pedals in front.
No experience with the Waza Air, personally. The different '3d scapes' sounds interesting, but apparently, some people hate it.

Here is the most balanced review I read on them

WAZA Air Headphone Amp Review

I disagree with his evaluation of the price point somewhat. If you look at similar options in that level of 'modelling', and add both wireless connection, just by itself, and it is competitive. Add in decent headphones, to another rig, even more so. NOW, if you already have wireless and headphones (many of us do), then yeah, it is a little pricey.

You might want to look at the Positive Grid Spark amp. It really sounds good, a LOT of different amp models, and it is really sounds awesome at low volume, is damn good on amp feel and touch. It's on sale now for $249 US. All else fails, it is a great powered, stereo bluetooth speaker for playing music. Great value, imho. TONS of reviews out there, vids etc, because they sent a LOT of the amps to Youtube and print, music reviewers right out of the gate. Granted some of them may be a little "got it free so good review:' Only real complaints on it, are the leather strap breaks easily, It doesn't ship with a decent grounded power supply, and for some that means hum until they replace the supply.

Me, I also think it lacks a little on the Headphone driver. YOu really need the right pair of headphones, to get close to same tone you hear from the speakers.

Positive Grid Spark

We also have a thread going here: https://www.mylespaul.com/threads/spark-amp.437063/

You might also look at the Yamaha THR10 II little desktop Modellers. MANY attest to them.

And, I once had a Blackstar HT1 1 Amp tube head. I got it when all the Marshall 1 Watters were coming out . It was substantially cheaper. It had one of the best headphone emulated out tones, I had ever heard on a tube amp. THis was their Mark 1 Mark II is out. With the Headphone jack engaged, you didn't need the head plugged into a Speaker Cab, an internal load was engaged. I assume the Mark II is the same. One draw bak I had with it was, it didn't have a full EQ, just the ISF thing. Others snobbed on it, because it used op amps to boost gain, even though the clipping was still in the tubes. Trust me, ANY little 1 watter with just a preamp and an O tube, is getting help there. It's a little like using a pedal. But pedals usually clip, where as these op amps allegedly don't.

Still sounds pretty good, if you like it's flavor of distortion. .


Or go a little more for their 5 Watt version, which gives you full EQ, FX Loop, 5W or 0.5 watt, separate volume and gain for the clean and drive channels.


Or the 20 Watt head, that can do 2W as well.

 

matthew bear

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2008
Messages
5,407
Reaction score
6,850
A couple for consideration:



although the above champ is a 110v version, which I am not sure about, step down transformers will they mess up the amps response?


The above is a later ‘81 version, still has the saggy sound?
It seems it’s the tweed version clapton used, just listened to a strat being played trough one, instant Layla. Also, one of my page reference tones I have just read about, was page going direct into desk for main black dog riff, which blows everything I thought to smithereens. I think these guys are having fun with us dropping little nuggets of info to see if they get repeated and incorporated in tone ‘Canon’, heard that the Rev has two stories for ‘la grange’ one is the tweed, the other is a Marshall 100w head, same with his use of 8’s. I just want sagggg..... maybe I should start a YouTube series called, ‘Does it sagggg?’ Lol. Thanks all inputs and opinions. Seems like I still got a lot to learn and understand before committing to an amp especially if I go balls deep with something in the higher end price range. The blackstar is going for sure, going to persevere with the little Marshall’s for a while,I have all the speaker options to play with, 4 different 10in a 2x12in alnico blues. Just a case of tweaking them if I get a sound I like will leave them at that setting for my simple plug and play idea.
Of that list, I’d go with the Carr. I own a 1960 tweed champ, and having a modern amp just feels a little more secure, I feel like the champ is gonna blow up when I crank it :laugh2:
 

NotScott

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2012
Messages
3,262
Reaction score
7,941
Of that list, I’d go with the Carr. I own a 1960 tweed champ, and having a modern amp just feels a little more secure, I feel like the champ is gonna blow up when I crank it :laugh2:
If it feels like it's gonna blow up, you're doing it right! :dude:
 

matthew bear

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2008
Messages
5,407
Reaction score
6,850
In a small room like OP has, a champ will deafen you... I’d go with a modeler. There are affordable ways to get into it that don’t suck, things have improved immensely in recent years
 

cherrysunburst00

TUBE AMP JUNKIE FOR LIFE
Silver Supporting Member
Gold Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2015
Messages
17,913
Reaction score
36,219
I had the same issue...had!
I tried lots of different tubeamps, stock Marshalls from 1W to 50W, Origin, SV20, JMP1, JTM1.....many different boutique amps like Carr Mercury V, Kool, Dr. Z, Two Rock, ....you name it, I checked it.

After 3 years of intense search I think (hope) I am done.
The best amp for low volume rock tones is the Cornell Plexi 7. It is a heandwired ptp, non mastervol tubeamp, that has four different power settings. 7w, 1,5w, 0,25w and 0,05w.
It sounds very close to real Plexi. It takes boosters and overdrive pedals very well, but is a bit weak on the clean side. I got two 1x12 cabs loaded with old Celestion G12H-30 (55hz) Blackbacks and it sounds amazing!!! Btw, the volume is lower with two cabs connected than with just one cab alone.

To get a wispering low volume level with saturated poweramp tube I also use an Aracom power attenuator. It is all analog and the best money can buy.

I hope that helps. If you have any questions, let me know.
Cheers from Germany, Mario.
DAMN, I want a Cornell Plexi 7.

What was it about the Carr Mercury V that you didn't care for? I love both the Mercury as well as the Mercury V. Carr Raleigh is very nice too.
 

MW110

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2016
Messages
29
Reaction score
24
I had the same issue...had!
I tried lots of different tubeamps, stock Marshalls from 1W to 50W, Origin, SV20, JMP1, JTM1.....many different boutique amps like Carr Mercury V, Kool, Dr. Z, Two Rock, ....you name it, I checked it.

After 3 years of intense search I think (hope) I am done.
The best amp for low volume rock tones is the Cornell Plexi 7. It is a heandwired ptp, non mastervol tubeamp, that has four different power settings. 7w, 1,5w, 0,25w and 0,05w.
It sounds very close to real Plexi. It takes boosters and overdrive pedals very well, but is a bit weak on the clean side. I got two 1x12 cabs loaded with old Celestion G12H-30 (55hz) Blackbacks and it sounds amazing!!! Btw, the volume is lower with two cabs connected than with just one cab alone.

To get a wispering low volume level with saturated poweramp tube I also use an Aracom power attenuator. It is all analog and the best money can buy.

I hope that helps. If you have any questions, let me know.
Cheers from Germany, Mario.
DAMN, I want a Cornell Plexi 7.

What was it about the Carr Mercury V that you didn't care for? I love both the Mercury as well as the Mercury V. Carr Raleigh is very nice too.
The Mercury V sounds very good, but unfortunately was still too loud for me. At very low volume the sound was dull and dead.
 

Arf

Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2020
Messages
45
Reaction score
25
There is "suitable", "workable", "sufficient", and "satisfactory" tone at low volumes. There is "great small amp" sound at low volumes. But when you cut your big amp loose, any illusions you had of capturing THAT at low volumes goes out the window - quite the snap back to reality. It's never going to happen
Not contradictory, but hard to get with tube amps. What follows is imho, and as always ymmv.

First, what many players consider 'big amp' tone, is the visceral aspect of an amp making a speaker or speakers really move air. This is also usually larger speakers moving larger air. The only way to duplicate that is with largish speakers, really working and moving a lot of air. THis generally equates to higher volumes. And yes, this CAN be achieved with both tube amps and modellers. I get it with my Axe FX into a matrix amp really pounding my Xitone 2x12. But it's loud.

So you have to determine if that is what your missing/wanting in 'big amp' tone. If it is, well there really only one way to get it.

Often, however, what people call 'big amp tone' is a combination of an amp running hotter, or into distortion, and the interaction of those driven tubes, output transformer and speaker. It is both to, but also response of the amp with the player, and vice versa.

THis, is where, imho, tube amps, with power scaling fall short. They get part of that equation. THe tubes can still be hit hard, react somewhat the same, sound the same. But, depending on how it is accomplished, the power scaling, the amp will have varying degrees of similar reaction with the OT. And ALL of them will never match the same interaction with the speaker. It can't, it's never driving the speaker as hard, let alone how that affects the OT. Using different speakers MIGHT be able to get the same interaction, but will also just sound different by definition.

In reality, this is why, imho I think a GOOD reactive load box is a better choice than these power scaling amps. YOu can still have the amp cranked up, which gets all the same interaction of tubes, OT and speaker. Where THIS system often fails, is when it is then used to drive a normal speaker cab. See above, about lower volume signals in bigger speakers, air moving etc. Now, if it is something like one of the Torpedo products, that also uses IRs of large Cabs etc, and designed to then drive smaller speakers, that reproduce the full spectrum, like studio monitors, imho that is the best of this route. The only thing you miss, imho is the air moving visceral thing. But, again, can only get that one way.

And, if all you want is getting that tone, and playing feel, without shaking the walls, there is also Isolation boxes. However, imho, this is not a great option, unless recording. For everyday play, outside the box, you will REALLY not like the results.

And then there is the Fletcher Munson effect on ALL of our hearing. Just taking a tone, and lowering it's volume WILL sound different to our ears. Which effects ALL of the above approaches, unless they account for it, which generally only something like the Torpedo load box products do (or modellers).

BUT, if that guitar, tubes, ot, speaker interaction above is NOT what you're not 'hearing' (more like feeling), then ye power scaling amps can get you there.

ALL of which, is why I went the modelling route. At low volumes, I get all of the above, the tone, the feel of all those parts interacting as a cranked or hot amp would, with the high end modellers, in spades. I even get the amp in the room tone. And now, even lower end modellers are getting damn close on all fronts. I am continually amazed at the inexpensive Spark amp, in this regard. The only thing I am not getting at low volume is the visceral air moving of a loud amp. That is unless I play my rig loud. And, trust me, the Axe through the Matrix at 500 watts per channel into the Xitone 2x12, can get as loud as any large watt tube amp (actually a tad louder) .

I went all of the routes above, low watt tube amps, power scaling, reactive load boxes etc etc. But, I settled on the modelling rig because, it was just a lot easier, for me, took a lot less space (As I DO like to use a lot of different amp tones, which would otherwise equate to a lot of amps and Cabs, and it was for a while).

So, bottom line, is you need to identify what YOU mean by 'big amp' tone, Once you have that, and hopefully I have helped in that regard, you can determine the best approach to take.
"What many players consider big amp tone?" Well for me it's the sound of a big amp. It's not a hypothetical, it's not theoretical, it's not Bigfoot, it's actually what it is. it really is a thing! There's nothing to decide or believe. I have a couple and I know what they sound like. When you take some time to give yourself the perspective and peel the paint with a half-stack or 2x12 combo until your skin hurts, the notion of "Big amp sound at low volumes" becomes laughable. Sure, I use low level overdriven sounds at my place of residence but I don't fool myself, especially after losing myself for a couple hours with my Dr. Z Prescription ES through four Greenbacks in my Marshall bottom, with or without my attenuator. Or wailing on my '67 Twin. Big amp sound at lower volumes don't exist, and I'm sick of reading about it in magazine ads and Manufacturer's websites. It is, in fact NOT a thing, as you kids like to say nowadays. The complexities of what happens when you bring a large amp up to where it sounds it's best could fill a book, way too much for a post on any forum or even a magazine article. Just appreciate that great sounding small amp for what it is and enjoy it..
Not contradictory, but hard to get with tube amps. What follows is imho, and as always ymmv.

First, what many players consider 'big amp' tone, is the visceral aspect of an amp making a speaker or speakers really move air. This is also usually larger speakers moving larger air. The only way to duplicate that is with largish speakers, really working and moving a lot of air. THis generally equates to higher volumes. And yes, this CAN be achieved with both tube amps and modellers. I get it with my Axe FX into a matrix amp really pounding my Xitone 2x12. But it's loud.

So you have to determine if that is what your missing/wanting in 'big amp' tone. If it is, well there really only one way to get it.

Often, however, what people call 'big amp tone' is a combination of an amp running hotter, or into distortion, and the interaction of those driven tubes, output transformer and speaker. It is both to, but also response of the amp with the player, and vice versa.

THis, is where, imho, tube amps, with power scaling fall short. They get part of that equation. THe tubes can still be hit hard, react somewhat the same, sound the same. But, depending on how it is accomplished, the power scaling, the amp will have varying degrees of similar reaction with the OT. And ALL of them will never match the same interaction with the speaker. It can't, it's never driving the speaker as hard, let alone how that affects the OT. Using different speakers MIGHT be able to get the same interaction, but will also just sound different by definition.

In reality, this is why, imho I think a GOOD reactive load box is a better choice than these power scaling amps. YOu can still have the amp cranked up, which gets all the same interaction of tubes, OT and speaker. Where THIS system often fails, is when it is then used to drive a normal speaker cab. See above, about lower volume signals in bigger speakers, air moving etc. Now, if it is something like one of the Torpedo products, that also uses IRs of large Cabs etc, and designed to then drive smaller speakers, that reproduce the full spectrum, like studio monitors, imho that is the best of this route. The only thing you miss, imho is the air moving visceral thing. But, again, can only get that one way.

And, if all you want is getting that tone, and playing feel, without shaking the walls, there is also Isolation boxes. However, imho, this is not a great option, unless recording. For everyday play, outside the box, you will REALLY not like the results.

And then there is the Fletcher Munson effect on ALL of our hearing. Just taking a tone, and lowering it's volume WILL sound different to our ears. Which effects ALL of the above approaches, unless they account for it, which generally only something like the Torpedo load box products do (or modellers).

BUT, if that guitar, tubes, ot, speaker interaction above is NOT what you're not 'hearing' (more like feeling), then ye power scaling amps can get you there.

ALL of which, is why I went the modelling route. At low volumes, I get all of the above, the tone, the feel of all those parts interacting as a cranked or hot amp would, with the high end modellers, in spades. I even get the amp in the room tone. And now, even lower end modellers are getting damn close on all fronts. I am continually amazed at the inexpensive Spark amp, in this regard. The only thing I am not getting at low volume is the visceral air moving of a loud amp. That is unless I play my rig loud. And, trust me, the Axe through the Matrix at 500 watts per channel into the Xitone 2x12, can get as loud as any large watt tube amp (actually a tad louder) .

I went all of the routes above, low watt tube amps, power scaling, reactive load boxes etc etc. But, I settled on the modelling rig because, it was just a lot easier, for me, took a lot less space (As I DO like to use a lot of different amp tones, which would otherwise equate to a lot of amps and Cabs, and it was for a while).

So, bottom line, is you need to identify what YOU mean by 'big amp' tone, Once you have that, and hopefully I have helped in that regard, you can determine the best approach to take.
"What many players consider big amp tone?" Well for me it's the sound of a big amp. It's not a hypothetical, it's not theoretical, it's not Bigfoot or a Unicorn, it's actually what it is. it really is a thing! There's nothing to decide or believe, like whether or not the world is round. I have a couple and I know what they sound like. When you take some time to give yourself the perspective and peel the paint with a half-stack or 2x12 combo until your skin hurts, the notion of "Big amp sound at low volumes" becomes laughable. Sure, I use low level overdriven sounds at my place of residence but I don't fool myself, especially after losing myself for a couple hours with my Dr. Z Prescription ES through four Greenbacks in my Marshall bottom, with or without my attenuator. Or wailing on my '67 Twin. Big amp sound at lower volumes don't exist, and I'm sick of reading about it in magazine ads and Manufacturer's websites. It is, in fact NOT a thing, as you kids like to say nowadays. The complexities of what happens when you bring a large amp up to where it sounds it's best could fill a book, way too much for a post on any forum or even a magazine article. Just appreciate that great sounding small amp for what it is and enjoy it.
 


Latest Threads



Top