An Even Better Guitar Polish

Dolebludger

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To answer a few questions posed above, first, the 303 Touchless Sealant gives the back of the neck a very smooth, non-sticky feel that is just what I want. Second, there is nothing wrong with using car products on guitars, because both things use the same kinds of finish. Third, dedicated guitar polish is more expensive than the 303, when you compare price with product amount andconsider how little of the 303 it takes to de a guitar
 

efstop

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I don't believe auto manufactures use lacquer on cars anymore. Poly, or likely a waterborne based paint. For instance, the paint on your MB is not the same paint as on a German built one, as they still use solvent based paints. EPA standards are a lot tougher than the German standards. Your car has a harder finish than a German one.

303TS's manufacturer is quite dodgy about the chemical makeup. It is not wax, it's synthetic, basically quartz dust and a carrier.

Personally, I wouldn't use any auto polish on a guitar that isn't carnauba based, or I'd use a guitar polish.
 
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TCON

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I have the meguirs wax and need to get the orbital hand polisher out to help me get the swirls out. I use fast fret on the neck and strings before and after Im done playing. I even wash my hands first and then put the fast fret on my fingers. I like the glide with no resistance feel. I keep all my guitars in showroom condition, thats just the way I am.
 

Dolebludger

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TCON,

If you use Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound, you don’t need a powered random orbital buffer to remove scratched from your guitar. In fact, the size of the buffing pad would get in the way, unless you first strip the guitar surface of all parts. For guitar scratches,, I use the product in a dampened microfiber cloth, and buff only the area of the scratch with the cloth over a finger.
 

Tone deaf

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I have the meguirs wax and need to get the orbital hand polisher out to help me get the swirls out. I use fast fret on the neck and strings before and after Im done playing. I even wash my hands first and then put the fast fret on my fingers. I like the glide with no resistance feel. I keep all my guitars in showroom condition, thats just the way I am.
I use "Swirl Remover" (the finest car polish) to do the final buff. I do have a 10" random, orbital car buffer and I have used it on my guitars (usually with all the hardware removed and one of the two items or the other clamped to the work bench).

This thread is good for it helps to bring up that caring for your guitars includes both physical and chemical interactions. Use too much grit and elbow grease, you'll be through that nitro in no time. Use the wrong chemical and you could have a sticky finish, forever.

There are lots of great threads with lots of excellent proven products in them. There are lots of knowledgeable folks here with good info to add. Whenever you think about trying something new on a guitar you love, do your homework, first.

I have polished everything from plastic (headlamps on my cars) to my stainless steel dive watches on my bench grinder (with polishing wheels installed) and everything in between. There is a right way and a wrong way to do just about everything. Even if I am doing something I have done before, if it wasn't recently, I'll double check before doing it.
 

Dolebludger

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Tone Deaf,

Thanks, and i’ll try some swirl remover on guitars and cars. I can’t use a 10” buffer on guitars, unless the swirls are on the back. But I can use it with a microfiber in the front and neck.

Now, let me say goodbye to this thread with a few comments. From my call to 303’s parent company, I learned that it is officially recommended for ALL automotive finishes ( including obsolete ones), glass, bright metals, and hard plastics. It is friendly to touch up jobs. I know as I’ve done these on finishes protected by this product. Finally, the reason to use it over a guitar polish from a music store is that this 303 product seems to almost repell dust and fingerprints, whereas guitar polish seems to attract these things.
 

Dolebludger

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It has been a few months since I first applied this to the finish of my guitars, it stays on, fingerprints wipe off easily, and the guitars look like new after 30 to 58 years old. I have never found anything else that will produce this result. It is certainly not for the “relic guys” but, for the rest of us, it can’t be beat!
 

redcoats1976

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will give it a try.and as for the "bama car" all that comes to mind is"hold my beer whilst i bolt on this fender".but lots of cars are built in kentucky and other furrin states and they seem to git along jist fine.BTW i used a 6 inch random orbital polisher and some ultimate polish on my 2017 GT tribute,shined it up pretty nice.not a brand new NOS standard shine but a semi shine like a VOS.
 
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Dolebludger

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Well, the “bama” car, I must say that I have had it for 2 1/2 years abs haven’t had a single warranty problem. That’s good, because the nearest dealer is 250 miles away.

Now,to guitars, if a buffer and Ultimate Compound doesn’t make it look like new, try some of the 303 Sealant I recommended above. You might just be pleasantly surprised.
 

ehb

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I use carnauba on all of mine...
 

LtDave32

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One thing that as a guitar maker, I'm constantly reminding people concerning waxes.

Say you wax your guitar, then play it for a good while, then take it out and wax it again.

When you apply the new wax to the guitar, all you are doing is pushing around the old, dirty gunky gooey wax.

And all that gritty crap that has embedded itself in the nooks and crannies along with the old wax.

Don't do that.

Get some naptha, Also known as "camp stove fuel" (Wal Mart, $12.00 a gallon) and a rag and clean off the old, crappy, dirty gunky gooey wax, and especially that funky goo on the fretboard and under the frets.

NOW, put on the fresh wax.
 

Dolebludger

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Lt Dave,

That is the benefit of the 303 Sealant. It does not leave a waxy finish that absorbs dirt. It gives a hard finish that cannot absorb dirt.
 

efstop

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Clean with lighter fluid (cheap)
Polish with a decent guitar polish (maybe not so cheap)
 

Dolebludger

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And, of course, you want to get your guitar pretty clean before you apply the 303 sealant (though is seems to have some mild cleaning properties on its own). If you have been using real or synthetic wax on it, the naptha cleaning mentioned above sounds like a good idea. But AFTER you use the 303 sealant, all that will be needed for a long time is a simple wipe down with a microfiber cloth. It does not attract or hold dirt, but in fact doesn't give dirt and gunk a finish it can stick to. As I stated in my post above, it produces a very thin ceramic finish that, on cars with normal use, is advertised to last only six months. But on guitars, it seems to last much longer, as guitars aren't driven out in the rain, snow, and muck like cars are.

You see, I don't like any finish or finish material that is thick on any of my guitars. Yes, I lake poly and I like lacquer -- but only if it is thin. So the last thing I want on my guitars is a thick paste wax or oil of any kind. That's why I like the 303 ceramic sealant. It is very thin, doesn't hold dirt or gunk, and is very easy and quick to apply.
 

Dolebludger

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Hey, if you have other polish/cleaners you like, stick with them. But many players haven't found things they like, and thus my post.
 




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