A string constantly breaking at saddle

[Skyjerk]

Topwrap.

This is a workaround. Reversing saddles is also a workaround. Neither are actually solutions and may not even stop the breakage

If the string breaks consistently at the saddle, then theres a burr or pinch happening and the actual fix is to file/sand the notch smooth

 

[PermissionToLand]

Can't quite tell from the pics, but do you use flat wound strings. You mentioned wiping down after playing, but that won't get the stuff under the string at the saddle. Looks like a fair amount of crud and possibly corrosion build up at your bridge. Back to the unanswered question about hand washing before playing?

FWIW, (and most will denounce these as crappy) I use the Rogue bulk strings from Musicians Friend and while they may not last quite as long as some of the pricier brands, at $1.98 per set (on a 15% off special) I can change as often as I like. Even at regular price, that's $2.32 per set and these prices include shipping. They have been very consistent and before they switched to the "Rogue" brand, they had S.I.T. packaged the same as 12 of each gauge in a separate plastic sleeve for each size. I think they're the same strings with different branding. Be informed that the Rogue single set, six pack does not appear to have the same strings. I've been buying bulk like this since the late 80's! I would easily compare them to GHS Boomers or Ernie Ball Slinky line. You need to order each string/gauge as a separate item/part number. If you use flat wounds, you're outa luck on this deal!

Just Sayin'
Gene

Not flatwounds. And thanks for the tip on cheap strings.

I wash my hands fairly often anyway, and I never play with them noticeably dirty. The corrosion on the bridge is partly because the guitar is VOS aged, and partly because I often get very sweaty while playing.

This is a workaround. Reversing saddles is also a workaround. Neither are actually solutions and may not even stop the breakage

If the string breaks consistently at the saddle, then theres a burr or pinch happening and the actual fix is to file/sand the notch smooth

Thank you, IDK why so many people are suggesting things I've already done. The tailpiece is as high as it can go while still having some break angle. Top wrapping at this point would have the strings floating over the saddles!

Now, by filing, I'd be worried about opening it up too much. And is it not already too deep in the saddle?

 

[the great waldo]

Try coating the string with some thin oil or Vaseline at the bridge, I have a feeling the sweat and two different metals form a chemical reaction which makes the string metal become brittle. The oil should stop air getting to the metal and reduce any breaking. Try a set of coated stings elixir for example and see if that helps or Graphtec saddles.

Cheers

Andrew

 

[jkes01]

I was gonna suggest Elixer polywebs with the anti-rust coating on the plain strings, but thought you all would disown me for it.

I still think you have filed too much of that slot and filing anymore will only make things worse. The strings no longer follow the radius of the fretboard. Also, by top wrapping, allows you to put the tailpiece all the way down, creating the break angle needed so they don't flop around. If all else fails, get a replacement bridge, maybe GraphTech - ResoMax

 

[D'tar]

Imo... body chemistry would affect more than just the A string every time. Replace your saddle or better, treat yourself to a new bridge! In the long run you'll save money spent on strings and you can return the tail piece to its proper position tight to the body. Again just my opinion. Good luck. Theres lots of great advise here to keep your new set up working flawlessly.

 

[PermissionToLand]

I was gonna suggest Elixer polywebs with the anti-rust coating on the plain strings, but thought you all would disown me for it.

I still think you have filed too much of that slot and filing anymore will only make things worse. The strings no longer follow the radius of the fretboard. Also, by top wrapping, allows you to put the tailpiece all the way down, creating the break angle needed so they don't flop around. If all else fails, get a replacement bridge, maybe GraphTech - ResoMax

That's the stock saddle, I' haven't filed it at all.

Imo... body chemistry would affect more than just the A string every time. Replace your saddle or better, treat yourself to a new bridge! In the long run you'll save money spent on strings and you can return the tail piece to its proper position tight to the body. Again just my opinion. Good luck. Theres lots of great advise here to keep your new set up working flawlessly.

Funny you guys would mention getting a new bridge, because that what I tried to do a while back (with some help on here), but to no avail. The bridge is placed too far forward (and the posts were bending forward), so I would need something with longer saddle travel, and apparently that bridge doesn't exist with ABR posts. So I was stuck doing this band-aid fix:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYJIXdlOg-o

This bridge has been nothing but trouble for me. If I didn't buy this guitar used for about half what it costs new, I would be seriously pissed at Gibson.

 

[Bill Hicklin]

I don't think the issue is sweat or corrosion, or it wouldn't be just the one string (also, how much do you actually touch the string down there?). The issue is the saddle and its slot; it's either pinching or there's a burr/knife edge too significant for just string-burnishing to remove (nickel and nickel-silver string wraps just aren't all that hard). It seems that the sharpie is forcing its way between the wraps and impinging directly on the core.

I'd go with a fine file followed by folded 600-800-1000 papers to smooth it. Don't sweat the depth of the notch too much; it's far less significant at the saddle than at the nut. If all else fails, just replace the saddle.

 

[moreles]

Yes -- your slot is too deep and the string is contacting and perhaps binding on the back of the bridge. Either raise the tailpiece or topwrap. The saddle slot looks both deep and sharp. There are many articles about how to notch a TOM saddle; I use the hammer-and-string method myself. Changing the saddle, lubricating the new notch, and adjusting the TP should eliminate the problem, since there really are no other ordinary causes. You also might check and see where you are resting your hand (if you are) because you could be pressing on that string and saddle. And finally, so check to make sure your bridge has not collapsed. Good luck. Annoying!

 

[The Ballzz]

Bill,
I've always noted you to be a very smart guy and don't mean to pick nits with you. However, concerning your statement/question: "I don't think the issue is sweat or corrosion, or it wouldn't be just the one string (also, how much do you actually touch the string down there?). " While I totally agree with your assessment regarding it being just that one string, I must state that with the heel of my hand constantly resting on the bridge, to control full volume feed back, etc, that is the one area of my guitars that collects the most gunk, spooge and biological material, even though I don't sweat very much. It is my considered opinion that his problem is caused by a combination of the pinch/burr issue and the sweat/spooge. He did state that he sweats a lot when he plays.

Just Sayin'
Gene

 

[pawpaw]

Just a thought - In Dan Erlewine's book he describes rounding off the back edge of the slot where the string bends over it so it isn't bend over a sharp surface. You might want to try taking a file and rolling off the back exit to the slot.

 

[Frogfur]

Thats considerably better than a rope breaking over the edge of a cliff.. I'll say that!..

 

[Bill Hicklin]

Bill,
I've always noted you to be a very smart guy and don't mean to pick nits with you. However, concerning your statement/question: "I don't think the issue is sweat or corrosion, or it wouldn't be just the one string (also, how much do you actually touch the string down there?). " While I totally agree with your assessment regarding it being just that one string, I must state that with the heel of my hand constantly resting on the bridge, to control full volume feed back, etc, that is the one area of my guitars that collects the most gunk, spooge and biological material, even though I don't sweat very much. It is my considered opinion that his problem is caused by a combination of the pinch/burr issue and the sweat/spooge. He did state that he sweats a lot when he plays.

Just Sayin'
Gene

Fair enough. I was thinking of my own playing style, where I don't rest the right hand on anything except when palm-muting.

 

[PermissionToLand]

I don't think the issue is sweat or corrosion, or it wouldn't be just the one string (also, how much do you actually touch the string down there?). The issue is the saddle and its slot; it's either pinching or there's a burr/knife edge too significant for just string-burnishing to remove (nickel and nickel-silver string wraps just aren't all that hard). It seems that the sharpie is forcing its way between the wraps and impinging directly on the core.

I'd go with a fine file followed by folded 600-800-1000 papers to smooth it. Don't sweat the depth of the notch too much; it's far less significant at the saddle than at the nut. If all else fails, just replace the saddle.

Thanks, I will definitely try that. And if it comes down to it, any suggestions where to get quality ABR saddles? Stewmac's were VERY imprecisely cut, to the point that only one or two were even usable. I was really surprised because I've always been happy with their stuff before.

Bill,
I've always noted you to be a very smart guy and don't mean to pick nits with you. However, concerning your statement/question: "I don't think the issue is sweat or corrosion, or it wouldn't be just the one string (also, how much do you actually touch the string down there?). " While I totally agree with your assessment regarding it being just that one string, I must state that with the heel of my hand constantly resting on the bridge, to control full volume feed back, etc, that is the one area of my guitars that collects the most gunk, spooge and biological material, even though I don't sweat very much. It is my considered opinion that his problem is caused by a combination of the pinch/burr issue and the sweat/spooge. He did state that he sweats a lot when he plays.

Just Sayin'
Gene

I think you're right. I rest my hand on the bass side of the bridge quite often.

Just a thought - In Dan Erlewine's book he describes rounding off the back edge of the slot where the string bends over it so it isn't bend over a sharp surface. You might want to try taking a file and rolling off the back exit to the slot.

Great tip.

 

[jkes01]

Thanks, I will definitely try that. And if it comes down to it, any suggestions where to get quality ABR saddles? Stewmac's were VERY imprecisely cut, to the point that only one or two were even usable. I was really surprised because I've always been happy with their stuff before?

Did you try contacting them? Their their customer support is pretty good, shoot them an email.

 

[PermissionToLand]

Did you try contacting them? Their their customer support is pretty good, shoot them an email.

No, maybe I will. I've long since lost the receipt though, hopefully that won't matter.

 

[jkes01]

They should be able to locate the transaction. Let us know what they say.

 

[The Ballzz]

They should be able to locate the transaction. Let us know what they say.

Yes indeed, please let us know! It's good for us all to keep an eye on how customer service progresses and/or deteriorates at the vendors we often use. Things can change quickly in this world and it's good to know when something is headed South!
Thank You Sir,
Gene

 

[Bill Hicklin]

Thanks, I will definitely try that. And if it comes down to it, any suggestions where to get quality ABR saddles?

http://www.philadelphialuthiertools.com/search.php?search_query=abr-1+saddles

 

[Ole'Lefty]

"Mitchell Cord" abrasive is cheap, even if you buy 3 or more sizes. I use it on saddles and nuts- gives a nice polish and a "u" shaped notch. You have to really over -do it to change take-off points or your chosen notch depth. (I am very fussy about these operations; I have two sets of the S-Mc gauged nut files-separated for nut and metal-the no compromise files are one of the best investments a luthier or set-up guy can make.)