58 Flying V Black Korina & Deluxe

fti

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Hi Folks,

Back in Sept 2016 I started my second build - a 58 Flying V. I came across this link http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/threads/58-flying-v-plans.227763/ and downloaded the Schenker plans. Also managed to find another set of plans which were a little more detailed http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/48083-how-about-a-modernistic-58-v/. I relied on both plans for my build.

Helping hands are always handy



It may not seem it, but this is considered clean in my case. For my build I largely rely on a drill stand which I picked up second hand for about 25 EUR. It's a Wabeco drill stand and has a long reach and it can be adjusted radially


The templates were drawn out on MDF and roughly cut with my jigsaw.


Sanded close to the line


I couldn't find any white Korina.. so I ended up going with Black Korina. Definitely don't regret it. Love how it looks


Because the 58V grains runs towards the centerline, I had enough would over for a 2nd body. So I decided to build two V's. The second one would become a deluxe version with P90's.


Will post more photo's later :)
 

fti

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Hope you guys don't mind. I've been busy with this build for a long time and have a lot of photos to share.

Big enough for two necks


This is where coffee came in handy. After I took this shot, I took a sip of my coffee and realized that the router was facing the wrong way! Also, I decided to put in a curved slot for the truss rod. I found out afterwards that the 50's Gibsons didn't have a curved slot but a straight angled slot. Oh well....


Better. Used a 5mm router bit to cut the channel.


Rigged up some support and angled 17degrees towards the table saw.


The blade only reached this far, and I sawed off the rest by hand.


I only cut close to the line. The rest I routed.


Tada


My other helper :)


Measured out the depth for the truss rod nut


Didn't have a sport facer, so I rigged up the drill stand to sand out the truss rod cavity.


Centered. By the way, I had to add a drill head to be able to increase the reach.


It kinda worked, but the channel is marginally too wide. I'll use some wood dust and glue to build up the sides later.


Roughly cut out the bottom of the neck with a jigsaw. That was no fun at all.


These right-angled aluminum beams are super-handy. I used them for almost all major parts of this build.


The neck heel at 3degrees.


Roughly cut out the heel


Used the safety-t-plane (first and probably last thing I'll order directly from the States taxes here in NL are just too high).


Relied on my trust L-beam angled at 3degrees.


Glued-up


and cut out
 

ARandall

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Nice.

Don't worry too much about the TR access being too wide. If you cut the headstock faceplate hole the right size then its odds on most of anything visibly oversized will be hidden
 

TheHarleyMan2

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How accurate are those plans on that website? I tried to download one and it wants me to download other crap on my computer so I didn't download anything and it won't let me download the plans also, how do you get the plans to print up full scale if I bring the file to the print shop? Any help would be good.
 

fti

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Nice.

Don't worry too much about the TR access being too wide. If you cut the headstock faceplate hole the right size then its odds on most of anything visibly oversized will be hidden
Thanks! The original V's don't have a faceplate. But this hole is well covered by the TR cover.

Nice work.

Here's a link to a couple I did, hopefully you can see everything, if not you'll just have to register.
http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10123&t=44660&p=621460&hilit=korina#p621460
Kevin Looker
Thank you for sharing. I'll have to register to see the photos. I'll do that later.

How accurate are those plans on that website? I tried to download one and it wants me to download other crap on my computer so I didn't download anything and it won't let me download the plans also, how do you get the plans to print up full scale if I bring the file to the print shop? Any help would be good.
The two that I have are quite accurate. There are some minor differences, and next to these plans I've googled like crazy to find specs. Let me know if you need some specific information.
 

fti

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How accurate are those plans on that website? I tried to download one and it wants me to download other crap on my computer so I didn't download anything and it won't let me download the plans also, how do you get the plans to print up full scale if I bring the file to the print shop? Any help would be good.
Also thought this was handy. http://www.best-eurospruce.com/30.html
 

emoney

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Looking great, and can't wait to see this one through to the end! Kudos.
 

fti

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Looking great, and can't wait to see this one through to the end! Kudos.
Thanks! This build has taken me some time... 3 kids, full time job, etc... you know the drill. But I've actually gotten quite far already. I'll post them in stages - also allowing me to sort them properly. :)
 

fti

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Cut off the anchor and tapered off the edges




Silly. This test fit was a little too tight and it took some persuasion to coax it back out.


On to the bodies. I was shooting for 2 bodies. from these two slabs.


Used the aluminum L-shaped bars to guide the cut. It worked surprisingly well.


I'm terrible at maths so I was ecstatic when this worked out. Two V's it is!


Fashioned this contraption together with the L-shaped beams to make a straight sanding block.


...and sanded the halves flat. This worked great!
 

fti

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Glued up the body halves. I thought long and hard about how to glue up the body halves because of slippage. As it turned out I had enough wood on top to screw the halves together. I then carpet-taped some ears to the sides and they held up pretty well against the force of the clamps.



This is about the moment where I thought I was going to make it!



Another change from the original 58. Rather than going for B. Rosewood, I decided to go for ebony. First time for me and what beautiful wood it is. Extremely forgiving because you can repair many mistakes with fresh ebony dust and CA glue.

Measured out the fret distances by relying on the fret calculator from Stewmac.


Fashioned a depth stop and used a guide to cut a straight slot. Worked surprisingly well, but you need to be focused.


Made a simple fingerboard sanding jig and sanded it to a radius of 12".


Drilled out the MOP dots 6mm if I'm not mistaken.


Nice! I was also happy with the distance of the 12th dots markers. These should fall somewhere between the E and A/B strings.


I'm a bit embarrassed by this contraption. It was supposed to be a fret bender, but it ended up being easier to bend the frets by hand. :p


Hammered in the frets and seated them in with CA glue. Used the dremel with cut off wheel to slice the frets - much better than pliers.


Although the photos don't show it, a lot of effort goes into making the fingerboard. If I'm not mistaken, this photo was taken after a complete re-fret as well. At first I pressed in the frets with my drill stand, but I wasn't so happy with the result because I had too many gaps under the frets. I ended up hammering in the frets with a soft blow hammer and this did wonders.
 

fti

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The bodies needed to be sanded down a little. This ended up being extremely great exercise. Use a dust mask!


Used this piece of acrylic sheet and taped some sandpaper on one side and window sucker thingamajig to act as a handle on the other.


Ordered some bindings from Rall guitars in Germany and they also provide you with a pack of gummy bears!


A little out of sequence, but here's a shot of the frets being pulled out. Heated up the frets good before I yanked them out. Since the frets were seated with CA, I wore a mask as well.


Routed out the neck joint. Since the tenon is angled, this does not need to be angled.


The shoulders don't need to be angled either.
 

fti

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..continued... the shoulder's need to come down a smidgen to allow for the FB to lie flat against the body. I marked the area where the FB ends and where it should flat with the body.


according to helper #1 it's a snug fit. Note the foam carpet .....just in case.


still at 3deg.


hogged out ad routed


stupid, but I just eyeballed it and it worked.


I first pre-drilled with a much smaller drill bit, then followed it up with a 6mm long drill bit.
 

fti

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Apologies for the fragmented posts. Something keeps coming in the way of my posts.

Here's the other hole towards the jack.


the other V will be sans pickguard. So the control cavities will be routed in the back. I basically flipped the template to the back and routed the same cavity in the back.


same for the jack


I traced out the cavities and made some new templates for the cover plates.


should have taken a better shot.... but I made sure that the depth was based on the pickguard material I had lying around (left over from my first Telecaster build).


cut this out with a jigsaw and sanded close to the line.


and filed it to fit


I was quite happy with this. It was a first for me and I redesigned the cover for the control cavity.


routed for the binding


and the headstock


binding the FB. This glue is great stuff! It smells like you could imagine glue sniffers to go crazy about, but not only does it glue the binding well, it also slightly melts the plastic.


glued up the sides and held it together with the L-beams


then fitted the back-end


first I filed around the frets and then filed flat in between


it's a messy job, but not that difficult at all


you get these nubs


which you can round off with a fret file


angle the nubs towards the fret ends. I just eye-balled it. Just go slow and check frequently


and ended up with my first bound FB
 

fti

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Took so many photos, it's difficult to sort them and edit them.

used this as a guide, worked great with a hand held drill


glued in the side dot marker 2mm with CA glue


glued up the body binding. Only needed to heat the binding at around the shoulders. Yet again the UHU glue worked well. Managed to get a toe-shot :)


and binding on the headstock


Really happy how this worked out. I think it may have been around this stage where I had my "Doh" moment. Initially I wanted to have a tobacco sunburst, but I realised that the neck joint would leave a gap. So I decided to go Goldtop.


glued up


bought a sheet of brass 1.5mm. Unfortunately this was the smallest size I could order..... another 30eur poorer. Apologies for another foot shoot. Btw... I'm still undecided if I should just lacquer the V or have it gold plated. I drew out the V from the measurements and did not rely on the template.


I was really surprised how difficult it was to cut the brass plate. I figured a simple hand saw should give me a rough cut, but that took too much effort. Thank god for the dremel and cut off wheel.


after much cutting and filing with files I ended up with this. The nails I picked up at the hardware store. I cut off the pointy bits with the dremel.


My helper #3. He help sand down the pickguard to the line. The pickguard was really difficult to find. It's 4-ply originally b/w/b/w; I flipped it w/b/w/b.


used the router bit to do the rest


originally the 58 pickguard is beveled at 30deg and the jack plate at 40deg. I eyeballed it with a stanley knife


started on the jack cover




I drew out the circle with a pencil. remained clearly visible. I filed the cover up to the pencil mark.


Ok. I don't advise anyone to do this. If you do, do it at own risk :) But after I filed it to shape, the stanley knife was great to clean it up and bevel to about 40degree.


happy with the result


Test fitting
 

fti

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This really had me laughing. Found some corrugated rubber but I could only order at 1sqm. But this stuff is great. I can use the rest for something else. Oh this piece is meant for the leg rest anti slip thingamajig.


held up the guitar in place


the rubber ends perpendicular to the corner of the pickup ring


made a template with sides to fit over the sides


used clamps to hold it fast to the body to avoid slippage


this is about the second time I pulled out the router. the rest of the work I've done with my drill stand.


happy with the depth


happy with the result. This part of the build was scary because it was easy to mess this part up.


test fitted


drew out the lines. don't let the squiggly lines fool you. It's all measured :). I decided to take the neck down in facets.


called in the help from helper #3


used a rough file and it took off the wood quite easily.


relied on photos to make sure I didn't go off course.


good enough for me
 
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fti

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on the deluxe I decided to use bushings on both the top and back sides. I drew out the lines and carefully drilled them out. I just went about it very slow and it ended up straight.


tada... btw. please note the oops moment with the bridge posts. I mis-measured, but thankfully I had already decided to go solid gold for the top. I can easily cover this up.


this deluxe version will sport two p90's with cream covers.


broke off this piece to use as a marker pin for the FB.


if you look carefully you can see where the pins stuck to the FB.


My FB ended up thinner than I wanted. So I made sure that the FB would be glued up across the whole neck just in case it may warp.
 




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