50's wiring with coil splitting?

[NINFNM]

Hi.

Is it possible to combine 50's wiring and coil splitting (with tone push-pull pots)?
I have my fralins with yhe split option and I wonder If I could also wire the them to 50's wiring. That extra top end sound great, but frankly I have no idea about it

 

[mrdannyboy]

I think so, is this what you mean? Not the greatest demo

 

[mrdannyboy]

is page's not 50's wiring with coil splitting

 

[geddy]

50s wiring just changes where the cap is connected input side of pot or output side. No impact on coil splitting

 

[NINFNM]

Thanks.

I don't know then if this mess is modern or 50's:

Maybe is impossible to say from this pictures...

 

[SGeoff]

holy smokes..i'd redo that just to get rid of the ugly. with the benefit of knowing just what is in there, and why

 

[NINFNM]

Ugly, that's it.

I've had a close look and it's modern wiring what I have

maybe it's time to take advantage of it and redo the whole thing

 

[TrippyStormtrooper]

Historics and RI’s are 50’s out the box right? Hence the taper and falloff last 8-9 on volume and treble? Piggybacking in this thread for a quick answer.

 

[az2000]

Is it possible to combine 50's wiring and coil splitting (with tone push-pull pots)?

Yes, 50s tone is just moving the wires to different lugs on the pots. The graphics on this page seemed clearest to me:

https://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/tips-and-tricks/lespaulwiring

Coil splitting is a bit more confusing because there are different ways to do it. You can choose the coil you want to be active. And, I've seen 2-3 ways to do it. This site: http://www.1728.org/guitar.htm and http://duhvoodooman.com/musical/humbucker_mods/humbucker_mods_2.htm were the easist for me to understand.

From what I learned in my googling: parallel coil wiring is recommended for "single-coil sound." (The default coil wiring is serial.). The reason: you continue to have humbucking from two active coils. (I'm preparing to do that to my Epiphone LP Special-II using toggle switches.). I assume you have 4-conductor pickup leads? If not, it's not difficult to convert your pickups.

If I were you, I'd do the 50s tone first, get used to that sound. You don't need new pots. Later, replace your pots for coil-cut (or parallel coil wiring). Keep it simple, not a big project. You can even use "microhook" jumper wires to experiment with tone mods. You could play with out-of-phase humbuckers, serial humbuckers (default is parallel).

 

[NINFNM]

I have just changed the connections to 50's wiring, but keeping it ugly
Now it cleans better, but I have noticed a more abrupt run of the tone control when the volume is not at 10, this doesn't happen with full volumen, then the tone control is more gradual compared to modern wiring.
I will keep with 50's. Mostly cause soldering is always an adventure for me, in a bad way, burning Wood, cables, fingers…

Yes, 50s tone is just moving the wires to different lugs on the pots. The graphics on this page seemed clearest to me:

https://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/tips-and-tricks/lespaulwiring

Coil splitting is a bit more confusing because there are different ways to do it. You can choose the coil you want to be active. And, I've seen 2-3 ways to do it. This site: http://www.1728.org/guitar.htm and http://duhvoodooman.com/musical/humbucker_mods/humbucker_mods_2.htm were the easist for me to understand.

From what I learned in my googling: parallel coil wiring is recommended for "single-coil sound." (The default coil wiring is serial.). The reason: you continue to have humbucking from two active coils. (I'm preparing to do that to my Epiphone LP Special-II using toggle switches.). I assume you have 4-conductor pickup leads? If not, it's not difficult to convert your pickups.

If I were you, I'd do the 50s tone first, get used to that sound. You don't need new pots. Later, replace your pots for coil-cut (or parallel coil wiring). Keep it simple, not a big project. You can even use "microhook" jumper wires to experiment with tone mods. You could play with out-of-phase humbuckers, serial humbuckers (default is parallel).

Thanks for the advice. I had in former times a pair of Duncans wired in series/parallel for that reason, but one day I switched to coil splitting and surprisingly the volumen drop was less.
Now since 8 years I sport a couple of Fralin Unbuckers and couldn't be happier. Uneven coils with perfect and uncompromised PAF sound (tele on steroids thing), and negligible volumen drop in single mode.

 

[az2000]

I have just changed the connections to 50's wiring, keeping it ugly
Now it cleans better, but I have noticed a more abrupt run of the tone control when the volume is not at 10, this doesn't happen with the volumen at 10 though.
Not a big issue, I will keep with 50's.

I'm not experienced, but you might play with the value of your capacitor(s). Even the same 0.022uf can vary in actual value. (I was reading that that variation can cause one guitar to sound better than another.). There's also a "treble bleed" mod involving a cap and resister. Google for it. StewMac calls it "golden age treble bleed." You might find that improves your 50s' response. Or, maybe that bleed with modern tone wiring would sound better. (I haven't tried it. I don't know much about it.).

Mostly cause soldering is always an adventure for me, in a bad way, burning Wood, cables, fingers…

I was the same way. With a properly powered iron and a bit of practice, I feel much better about soldering. One thing that helped me the most (besides a properly-powered iron, in the 40-50w range) were small micro clamps that I can use as heatsinks, or to hold a wire to a lug as I solder it.
https://i.postimg.cc/m2vxSxyq/61n0y-Rb-R3-DL-SL1220-800x395.jpg

​

 

[pblanton]

The best thing that helped me with soldering is some of these...

Amazon.com: WGGE WG-026 10 Pieces and 5 Colors Test Lead Set & Alligator Clips,20.5 inches (1 PACK): Home Improvement

Buy WGGE WG-026 10 Pieces and 5 Colors Test Lead Set & Alligator Clips, 20.5 inches (1 PACK): Test Probes & Leads - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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They help you to test circuits before soldering them up, and you can push the rubber covers back and use the clips for holding the parts together while you solder.

Soldering wires to lugs is the easiest part, but soldering wire ends together has always been an issue for me. I usually slip a piece of heatshrink down one of the wires and then solder them together, then slide the heatshrink over the connection and lightly rub the soldering iron tip over the heatshrink tubing to shrink it. I don't usually make butt-end connections like that unless I'm working on a battery powered circuit for something like active pickups, or an internal preamp, then I often need a "Y" connector for the battery power lead.

My most recent project like this is a Les Paul with single master volume, and single master tone, coil splitting, killswitch with LED-ring, a TONE MONSTER SG-2D FULL THROTTLE PP Mid Boost Preamp and a set of Seymour Duncan Invaders.

Preamp: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114254069452.
Pickups: https://www.seymourduncan.com/single-product/invader

It's the most complex guitar mod I've ever done and it's so full of tone options.

 

[MATTM]

Thanks.

I don't know then if this mess is modern or 50's:

View attachment 338797

Maybe is impossible to say from this pictures...

That's currently wired modern style. If you want it 50's style, just move the cap lead on the volume pots from the outside lug (where the pickup connects) to the center lug (where the switch connects).

 

[MATTM]

Historics and RI’s are 50’s out the box right? Hence the taper and falloff last 8-9 on volume and treble? Piggybacking in this thread for a quick answer.

Not all years of Historic's were wired 50's style, nor did all have audio taper pots.