335 Electronics Installation (a.k.a. How to take years off your life)

Grahams Cat

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Hi, Thanks for uploading. I found this article very helpful. However, trying to get the harness back into the guitar has had me running around my backyard with an axe! I've made two so far. I've mounted the pots on a template etc and wired up using braided cable insulated with clear plastic tubing, the same used to draw the pots through the holes. I've used cable lengths pretty much the same as the Gibson effort I removed and have referenced pics of pro harnesses.
I'm having real issues with getting the damned thing into the guitar as it keeps tangling and getting stuck. Should I make the cables longer to add flexibility or will this make things worse? My last effort snapped the leg off my PIO cap, and is slowly driving me mad! I'd appreciate any advise! Thanks G
 

freddarl82

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I'm having real issues with getting the damned thing into the guitar as it keeps tangling and getting stuck. Should I make the cables longer to add flexibility or will this make things worse? My last effort snapped the leg off my PIO cap, and is slowly driving me mad! I'd appreciate any advise! Thanks G
When I did mine, I used a template to build (as you did) but allowed just a little bit of slack in the vintage braided cables running between the pots. You've got to give yourself a little bit of "real-world" tolerance in order to work the pots up into the holes, IMO.
 

Grahams Cat

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:rofl:Ha ha..........at last!
The damned thing works!!! Def worth making a larger harness. Keeping everything distanced from the switch is the key to avoiding congestion through the pick up aperture. A pair of angled long-nosed pliers helps guide things along via the f-hole. Also earth leads long enough to secure each pick-up pot set prior to stuffing the next set in is useful as too many plastic tubes soon takes up the access.
For the jack-socket I shaved the plastic plug down on a patch lead & fed it through, again with a lead long enough to secure with the switch sitting in the pick-up well.
:band: Now finally enjoying my BKP Stormy Mondays and the family's talking to me again. Manys thanks to Hillbilly for that article & everyone else.
 

MiniB

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Hah....I love this thread title...

"335 Electronics Installation (a.k.a. How to take years off your life)"

I always tell people that if they haven't tried replacing the electronics/pickups on a 335 before, get ready for the most frustrating day of their lives. :)

It gets better the more you do it and your hands get more used the contortions it has to do. I also made a wire tool that helps grab or steady things.
 

LPofBorg

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Thanks to Billy and all the contributors. Setting about to re-wire the Epi Dot.... Not sure I'd have attempted it without reading this thread first. Awesome info!
 

SilverBurps

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After reading through this, I'm REALLY glad my 339 has its rear access plate!
 

Weldaar

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What an excellent post Hillbilly. Thanx so much for taking the time. :applause:
 

dcooper830

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I did one of my Epi DOTs a few weeks ago.

Complete replacement of pickups, wiring, pots, switch and output jack.

I'd never done a semi hollow before.. but I wanted to experience it... and I want to do it again several more times to get better and better at it!!

I'll post some pics... feel free to laugh at my horrible wiring mess LOL!! Hey it was my first time!

I plan on improving my skills in this.

On my bench. I apprenctice at a guitar repair shop. I mostly do setups and pickup swaps.. and starting to improve my fretwork skills. Eventually i want to learn how to repair cracks and breaks.. and do finish work as well... but anyway... I took my own Epi DOT in there so I could get some experience doing semi hollow rewiring...



The new stuff.... StewMac Golden Age Parsons Street Humbuckers and their deluxe wiring kit.




Template:



Other side LOL!!



All the original electronics out... the Stew Mac pickup container is great for holding the strings out of the way!



Getting it wired up... I'm happy with my solder joints.



Ready to go in...



The string I was using was too thick!! Gave me some greif... I like the plastic tubing idea and will use that next time.



Sounded very good!! But got muddy when rolling back the volume... I I took it all back out and installed treble bleeds on the volume pots...



All done!




Came out pretty good. I got what I wanted which was a LOT more clarity! Also deeper bass and higher highs... a more extended tonal range.

Although... It still seems there is a lack of punch on the low strings.. like when I trying to do some tight sounding riffs... but I've only played it on a couple gigs so far... gonna keep working with it.
 

Woderwick

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Do yourseof a favour, before you pull all the old stuff out, tie some fishing line around the pot shafts etc. Then you can attach that to the new stuff and pull it back through.
 
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Big thanks to all. Now I know to leave my 335 alone. But I have a Les Paul complete change to do, that looks like a piece of cake (mocking, scary laughter now). We'll see.

But big, big thanks, great post.

So! If you see an ants nest kick it, but not always.
 

Dilver

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Just replaced the pots and caps on my CS-336 and installed treble bleed caps while I was at it. What an ordeal. I've used the tubes method for snaking the pot shafts up through the holes on hollow bodies before, but with the 336, there just isn't room.

Biggest hassle is having things get tangled up inside. Rather than long leads I found it easier when each set of pots (e.g. Bridge pickup volume and tone pots) was pretty closely spaced and I ran kitchen twine on just the tone pot shafts, using my fingers to pop in the volume pots. This minimized the number of things to get tangled up in. Also helps to tape off the f holes to prevent any finish scraping, and having a set of thin long needle noses pliers

Hoping I won't have to do that again any time soon!
 

WesB

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The easiest way I’ve found to open up the pot holes is with a pencil and fine sand paper. Just wrap a layer or two around the pencil to give a snug fit and give a twist. Only took a couple twists to open the holes on my Burny from metric to sae. No worries about chipping the finish with a bit
 

bard2dbone

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So I am waiting on delivery to have an NGD. My new guitar is an older Ibanez AS80, one of the small headstock years when it was shaped more like an ES335.

I am now vaguely relieved that the reason I got such a low price on it is that a previous owner has cut an access in the back to change the electronics. That plate on the back is ugly,...but it got me the guitar for cheap, and it will make swapping parts so much easier.

I have an Epi Dot that the previous owner changed the headstock to be "a Gibson from the first row or more". I bought it, because it was too good a deal to pass up. He couldn't sell it as a Gibson because it wasn't. But he couldn't sell it as an Epiphone because it claimed it was a Gibson. So he put it on Craigslist as "heavily modified semihollow thinbody" for $150.

But when I got it, I did it because it was cheap enough to modify experimentally with a clear conscience. Until this thread, I'd forgotten what a pain it was to put in the pots on that beast.
 




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