2nd Les Paul build with the Gold Standard Carve Templates (Latin Edition!!)

danigalapago

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Ok, guys, here's a new update!

Carve template steps ready:

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and here's @pshupe box jig in action:

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Voilá:

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Let's check the neck and pup angles:

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Looks pretty good to me :dude:

I won't show all the orbital sanding stuff, there's a great video tutorial from @ExNihilo, you should check it out before using the step templates.

You need to fine-tune the carve and those contour gauge templates are a MUST. Thanks again for them guys.

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A bit of naphta:


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Neck cavity done, let's route the binding channel using the homemade jig:

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Jack hole check.

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And here are the results so far:

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(There's a bit of goop in some critical parts).

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And there she is.
Well, that's it for today. Appreciate your input guys!!!
DC
 

ARandall

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Wonderful work!!

Thats got a distinct Pearly Gates type look to the figure. Do you already have a target burst colour you are going for??


Just an additional observation (being helpful not critical!!)..........There looks to be a slight ridge in the carve on the upper bout - a leftover from the neck angle cut I think.
 

danigalapago

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Wonderful work!!

Thats got a distinct Pearly Gates type look to the figure. Do you already have a target burst colour you are going for??


Just an additional observation (being helpful not critical!!)..........There looks to be a slight ridge in the carve on the upper bout - a leftover from the neck angle cut I think.
hey thanks!! Yes, I’m trying not to touch that area until the neck is done. I’ll blend it in once the tenon fits well and the fretboard sits flat. It is me being extra careful and obsessive LOL.

btw, this would be the finish I’m after:



1102217E-1017-428C-ACCA-B24B4CE48180.jpeg


thanks!!!
 

danigalapago

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Ok guys, here's the 2nd cavity route process.
I'm using the gold standard jig template:

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It has 8.5 angle wedges.

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I'm using a 2x4 piece of pine as a straightedge, and the wedges are attached to the body using the tape and superglue trick.

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I didn't take pictures of the counterbore drilling procedure. All I can say is that I haven't used a spotfacer, but a 1" forstner bit ( that's what I have). Plus, to make things even harder, I've got the 1/2 switch and the 3/8 pot holes, already drilled, so it was a nightmare. There's no way I could get the counterbores centered. I've been holding and pressing down the body with one hand while the other pulling the drill press handle.

Here are the results:

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The counterbores aren't as clean as they should be. And also the forstner bit bites are bigger than what they should be.
Well... :dunno:
I already ordered a 1" spotfacer with a 3/16 pilot from Yardstone. This won't happen again.



The switch counterbore was a different story. I have a 3/4 spotfacer with a 3/16 pilot, so it was a smoother procedure.
Here you go:

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And here's the back completed:

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thanks for watching!!!
DC
 

Skyjerk

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Your work is impeccable :)

Very clean. Your workshop also looks very clean :)

I've traveled to Rosario a few times for business, but I regret I was never able to visit Buenos Aires.
 

danigalapago

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Your work is impeccable :)

Very clean. Your workshop also looks very clean :)

I've traveled to Rosario a few times for business, but I regret I was never able to visit Buenos Aires.
Hey, thanks man! Glad you like it!!
Wow, you really need to visit Buenos Aires, you should come the next time!
 

danigalapago

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hey guys, it's been a while, too much going on here lately.

Well, now that the body is completed, it is time to work on the neck.
The blank is wide enough for a one-piece headstock, no ear blocks needed:

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I'm using a stewmac hotrod, truss rod channel done using the router table and fence:

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Now, I've got a few BR blanks and also a nice dark ebony blank. I sent them to a local laser cut and here are the results.
Btw, thanks to the covid situation, I couldn't get hold of the Bartlett order. I usually travel once a month to FL, so I always use my FL postal address for all of my international purchases. Unfortunately the borders are still closed in Argentina, :mad2::mad2:. Anyhow, I have a nice celluloid sheet that I bought a long time ago on Ebay, and I gotta few sets of inlays. They look (and smell) just fine:

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I'm using the 24.562" modern scale. the frets are slightly marked, I still have to saw them manually to the correct depth, but I'll do it after the radius process (here's the jig I use)

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and here you go:

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a nice dark chocolate Brazilian board :dude:

I glue the inlays using CA and a bit of fretboard dust:

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Now I'm about to start fretting this guy. I'm using stewmac's 141 fretwire and fish glue for the job:

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I push the glue in with my fingers, it's quite messy but then I'll use a wet towel to clean it up:

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Check out the squeeze on the fret ends. cool!

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And here it is (I didn't take photos of the binding/nibs process, you know how it goes)

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I almost forgot! I swiped the board with a bit of acetone. What do you think about the inlays?

I'm using hot hide glue for the fretboard and neck:

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And use a negative 12" radius block as a clamping caul.

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I also haven't taken any photos of the neck carving process, but I used a shinto rasp and microplanes (those MP are awesome, thanks @Freddy G !!!)

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You know that this guitar is for me and it's meant to be a replica, so I'm using a MOP 50's G logo:

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And here's the neck completed:

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There are a few things I had to change over the course of the build. First, I haven't got hold of the holly veneer and the Bartlett inlays yet (thanks covid!). I ended up using an ebony peghead (it has a few brown steaks, so I used a black stain on it).

And finally, here's the neck and body altogether:

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Moro to follow on the next post!
 
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danigalapago

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Now it is time to route the pickup legs and pup cavities. Again, I'm using @Freddy G 's method:

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I carefully aligned everything using a laser level guide:

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And finally, after all this freaking Covid time, here she is:

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Once I get the retrospec's bushings, this one will be ready for finishing!

Thank you guys, hoping to give an update soon!!!
DC
 


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