2020 LPjr bridge studs & nut issues.

[Kodapaul]

Just came into a used 2020 LPjr and it is used but hopefully someone will concur Not abused!
Went and checked it out, but once home checked out other things about it in better light and discovered how the nut is seated and whether it is cracked and needs replacing. Also not too wild about all the lean angle of the bridge. Probably can’t fully seat the studs down on the body…I’ll let the experts chime in on that.

 

[LPTDMSV]

whether [the nut] is cracked and needs replacing. Also not too wild about all the lean angle of the bridge. Probably can’t fully seat the studs down on the body…

Nice-looking guitar. Juniors are cool.

I suspect apparent “cracks” are not cracks but due to partially-removed lacquer on the ends of the nut?

With a wraparound bridge, the setup won’t even include trying to get the studs fully down, that doesn’t apply. The tipped-forward bridge is fairly typical, Faber and others make studs with locking nuts to clamp the bridge level if that bugs you, although the bridge will most likely still slope treble-to-bass.

 

[DanD]

I concur.

Nothing wrong with that Jr that I can see.

Had one quite like it. Very nice guitars.

Congrats!

 

[fretout]

Those “cracks” in the nitrocellulose are normal. It’s normally caused by the natural expansion/contraction of the wood and nylon (nut).

Because the mahogany expands/contracts at different variables than the rosewood and nylon, those cracks in the clear nitrocellulose occur. If Gibson used a thicker, more resilient finish (such as polyurethane), this expansion would likely not occur. However, we want thin finishes that allow the guitar to resonate and “breathe” as easily as possible, because it results in a better sounding and feeling guitar.

As for your tailpiece, it’s normal for that lean to occur. It can be minimized though. If you’re open to not using the historically correct tailpiece studs, you can buy aftermarket tailpieces that will “sandwich” the tailpiece nice and tight, and will eliminate the lean that your guitar has currently. Here’s a few of the forum favorites with different designs made to address the issue of tailpiece lean:

• https://faberusa.com/product/3350-0-wrap-lock-inch-gloss-nickel/

• https://www.stewmac.com/parts-and-h...MIxcai3dbajgMVJiVECB05YivGEAQYASABEgIPbvD_BwE

• https://www.callahamguitars.com/gibson_body_lockingstuds_catalog.htm

 

[Leee]

Just don’t do THIS:

 

[Kodapaul]

Officially Ruined!!!!

 

[Kodapaul]

Just found a bridge that eliminates all the issues caused by the original bridges on the JR’s. Mill City Bridges.
There’s some videos on YouTube about them hosted by the great Nashville session player Tom Bukovac (aka) Uncle Larry.
Going to give it a try down the road later.

 

[Dilver]

Those “cracks” in the nitrocellulose are normal. It’s normally caused by the natural expansion/contraction of the wood and nylon (nut).

Because the mahogany expands/contracts at different variables than the rosewood and nylon, those cracks in the clear nitrocellulose occur. If Gibson used a thicker, more resilient finish (such as polyurethane), this expansion would likely not occur. However, we want thin finishes that allow the guitar to resonate and “breathe” as easily as possible, because it results in a better sounding and feeling guitar.

As for your tailpiece, it’s normal for that lean to occur. It can be minimized though. If you’re open to not using the historically correct tailpiece studs, you can buy aftermarket tailpieces that will “sandwich” the tailpiece nice and tight, and will eliminate the lean that your guitar has currently. Here’s a few of the forum favorites with different designs made to address the issue of tailpiece lean:

• https://faberusa.com/product/3350-0-wrap-lock-inch-gloss-nickel/

• https://www.stewmac.com/parts-and-h...MIxcai3dbajgMVJiVECB05YivGEAQYASABEgIPbvD_BwE

• https://www.callahamguitars.com/gibson_body_lockingstuds_catalog.htm

100%. Get some 1” steel studs and a Mojoaxe compensated tailpiece they’ll fit more snuggly and you’ll have less, if not no lean.

 

[LPTDMSV]

100%. Get some 1” steel studs and a Mojoaxe compensated tailpiece they’ll fit more snuggly and you’ll have less, if not no lean.

+1 for MojoAxe, from experience. I bought a Faber for my old Melody Maker, going to try that when I do a p/u swap, hopefully soon. Mill City, I didn’t know that one so thanks @Kodapaul I will investigate. Tom Bukovac is a strong recommendation.

 

[Leee]

Just found a bridge that eliminates all the issues caused by the original bridges on the JR’s

Never heard anyone make that claim.

 

[Kodapaul]

Well today is your lucky day!!

 

[Leee]

I’ve owned plenty of guitars with wrap tailpieces, and I tried to like them.

Just couldn’t do it.

I’ve wanted a Les Paul Junior for 30 years, and this was part of the reason I never bought one.
I even looked seriously at buying a few vintage ones, back when they were relatively cheap.

I finally found a 2005 that was in good shape, priced reasonably, and had a slim neck.
Perfect for a little experiment.

So putting a TOM on it was sort of my middle finger to the universe.
I love that Junior.
No one else has to.

 

[Kodapaul]

You are correct Sir! Enjoy!!!!

 

[LPTDMSV]

Just found a bridge that eliminates all the issues caused by the original bridges on the JR’s. Mill City Bridges.
There’s some videos on YouTube about them hosted by the great Nashville session player Tom Bukovac (aka) Uncle Larry.
Going to give it a try down the road later.

Yes, here it is, Music City Bridges website showing two versions, the “Stud Finder” for true vintage angled and the “Savvy” for modern and straight-across fitment.

Kind of a blend of the Faber and MojoAxe approaches, perhaps I will try one on my next wraptail, or stick with MojoAxe … ?? We’ll see

And the Tom Bukovac video:

 

[Leee]

And all of this experimentation, head-scratching, and creative problem-solving occurs for only one reason:
The lowly, modest, unassuming Les Paul Junior is a timeless guitar.

Definitely has its own thang.

 

[Leee]

I’ve built several FrankenStrats with various pickup configurations, because it’s an easy platform to modify.

I ended up building the Strat equivalent of a Junior using a Mahogany neck and body from Warmoth, and it’s pretty damn cool.

Still, after all these years, I’m tempted to do the same thing - only in a Telecaster/Esquire platform.

Old-school Telecaster bridge, and a single P-90 pickup in an Ash body.

 

[spupilup]

I have the Music City Bridge Savvy on my Special and Junior. Don't cheap out, get the MCB locking studs. While you're at it pick up a pair of Faber bushings.

"The Savvy" - Compensated wraparound tailpiece - Music City Bridge

The Savvy Bridge is a compensated wraparound tailpiece compatible with a vast majority of wraptail guitars. The Savvy is a direct replacement guitar bridge used by professional musicians to make their wraparound guitars (Gibson Jrs, Specials, Melody Makers, etc...) playable on stage and in the...

musiccitybridge.com

MCB Locking Studs - Music City Bridge

MCB Locking Studs pair perfectly with our Savvy or Stud Finder bridges, and will work with virtually any bridge or stop bar. Our locking studs feature a totally new locking system while preserving the look of traditional Gibson studs.

musiccitybridge.com

You searched for bushings – Corsa-FaberUSA

 

[Stewbear]

Just came into a used 2020 LPjr and it is used but hopefully someone will concur Not abused!
Went and checked it out, but once home checked out other things about it in better light and discovered how the nut is seated and whether it is cracked and needs replacing. Also not too wild about all the lean angle of the bridge. Probably can’t fully seat the studs down on the body…I’ll let the experts chime in on that.

Yeah, I just got a new one of those and I’m gonna order an adjustable bridge for it because it’s really far back just to get it initiated

 

[mudface]

@Leee is my hero,.. he will make whatever guitar work to his heart desires,.. we all could appreciate that.

Then he takes the next step,.. he will build his own creations out of whatever is available. Then give us the reasons why he did it.

The man is wealth of useful information,.. with personal experience to back it.

I always pay attention to our Texan brother.

 

[MasterEvan07]

Kiss My Strings/KMS in Germany has a far more elegant solution for stud spacing - graduated offsets built into the TP itself. It looks great, fits better, increases stud and TP metal-to-metal contact improving resonance, vibration, sustain, etc.