2019-up Standard 60s bridge issue.. UPDATE

flamesarewicked

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Bought it a few months ago.. if tapping it down doesn’t remedy it I’ll change the bridge.. if the screws would sit in the slot more the problem wouldn’t exist but the thickness of the plating makes it an extremely tight fit
 

CB91710

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Here's a few shots of two different TonePros bridges, held close to my LP original bridge.
The purpose of these shots was to show the stud compatibility with original ABR-1 studs, but you may be able to get a good idea on the screws.
The wired bridge is their ABR-1 replacement, the other one is the Nashville, but looks like the same casting.

NVR2-PKG.jpg
AVR2-PKG.jpg
BothPosts-1.jpg
BothPosts-2.jpg
BothBridge.jpg
 

flamesarewicked

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Okay.. if the thread size and pitch is the same insert wise.. I’ll just swap it.. and I had a spare Nashville bridge not long ago..... :doh:
 

CB91710

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OK, here are some better shots.
These are both the Nashville TonePros replacements on the Flying-V and SG, but they are basically the ABR design.

TP-Hardware.jpg
V-Bridge-1.jpg
V-Bridge-2.jpg
V-Bridge-3.jpg
SG-Bridge1.jpg
SG-Bridge2.jpg
 

zombiwoof

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Your saddles are slotted too deeply, that's the cause of the problem. Did it come with the slots that deep?. I only put slight nicks in my saddles to hold the strings, not slots like you have in a nut.
Al
 

flamesarewicked

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The slots are how it arrived.. I haven’t deepened them personally.... I’ll tinker with it more tomorrow when I get off work in the morning..
 
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CB91710

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Your saddles are slotted too deeply, that's the cause of the problem. Did it come with the slots that deep?. I only put slight nicks in my saddles to hold the strings, not slots like you have in a nut.
Al
Good catch... This is a slightly better shot of my '19 Original saddles as they were from the factory.

Saddles.jpg
 

gypsyseven

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Here’s what do on abr bridges...set up your guitar...intonation etc. and then push down the saddle screws to sit „perfect“/straight in the slots. Then i put clear nail polish on that point where the screw head sits in the bridge. Works perfect and is easy to remove...
 

dro

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Your saddles are slotted too deeply, that's the cause of the problem. Did it come with the slots that deep?. I only put slight nicks in my saddles to hold the strings, not slots like you have in a nut.
Al

A second look and wow you are right. Too deep by allot. If you don't mind me asking. Where did you buy it. New? Used?
Did it happen to be a GC guitar originally?
 

flamesarewicked

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A second look and wow you are right. Too deep by allot. If you don't mind me asking. Where did you buy it. New? Used?
Did it happen to be a GC guitar originally?
I bought it used from Chicago Music Exchange... where it was before that? Who knows. Not that any of that matters.. I bought it second hand.. time to move forward with it..
 

Jmpman

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I agree, those slots on the E and B string are cut way too low from looking at the picture, though the tilting of the bridge does not help either.
 

larryguitar

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I've got enough OCD that, whatever other solution I might come up with, that stud would end up seated flush to the top. That's just...annoying.

Larry
 

flamesarewicked

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Well I currently have 9.5s on it.. I had one pack left and I thought I’d use them.. I have a fresh box of 10s to use now. Maybe the slightly larger gauge will improve it some.. I’ll either replace the whole bridge with another factory one.. or just the two saddles.. I have a Tone Pros bridge for a Gibson but it’s black (from a LP Custom I used to have). If I went that route I’d have to swap them all for it to not look really dorky lol.

there’s no telling what strings it had on it by the previous owner or owners. They could of ran heavy strings on it and needed to open them up.. who knows.. at least it’s a fixable issue.. other wise the guitar it’s absolutely fantastic.. had it been brand new I probably would of still kept it and just do what I’m doing now to fix it..
 
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I had a similar problem with my CL2017, in my case it was the bolts of the saddles that vibrated, and for the worse, they did not always do it, the buzz drove me crazy. I removed the wire and I thought it was the solution ... the problem continued. In my case the solution was to remove all the saddles and place a small piece of heat shrink just in the part of the screw that makes contact with the bridge. It is not very aesthetic, but it is not easy to see more than 50cm away either, I was working on the bridge mounting bolts anyway and soon I hope to make more suitable ones, since the original bushings and bolts move too much


 

CB91710

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I had a similar problem with my CL2017, in my case it was the bolts of the saddles that vibrated, and for the worse, they did not always do it, the buzz drove me crazy. I removed the wire and I thought it was the solution ... the problem continued. In my case the solution was to remove all the saddles and place a small piece of heat shrink just in the part of the screw that makes contact with the bridge. It is not very aesthetic, but it is not easy to see more than 50cm away either, I was working on the bridge mounting bolts anyway and soon I hope to make more suitable ones, since the original bushings and bolts move too much
Note the nylon washers below the screw heads on the TonePros bridges.
 

flamesarewicked

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I may take this opportunity to swap my bridge and tail piece with an aged set...

many suggestions for something that’ll drop right in place?
 

Brazilnut

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:) Drive that bushing down flush to the top wood. It isn't seated all the way. Use a small block of wood, like CB says, and tap it flat.
 

CB91710

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:D


 

moreles

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Pics can't be definitive but the posts are no longer not set correctly and those intonation screws look like they're riding way too high.
 

flamesarewicked

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Well I swapped the bridge with a Graphtech ResoMax bridge... it dropped right on top of my existing posts.. zero clearance issues front and rear...


no it’s not historically correct but it’s more about function than form.

906A3885-EF5C-4DE0-8806-8AC3235376B1.jpeg
C605B1D7-FBB2-4927-937C-27D8B0BCD3BD.jpeg
 


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