2016 standard. Cool tap doesn't change ohms. Normal?

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Wondering, when I pull the coil tap, the bb pros show the same resistance ~7.5B/8T. It doesn't change and the tone itself is very subtle in difference and only in clean. The 2016 standard doesn't have the battery boost thing. Just wanted to get thoughts from other standard owners
 
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ARandall

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Depends where you're measuring. Some switching might add in a cap to filter the pickup so it sounds clearer like a singlecoil without changing other aspects.
 

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Measuring at the jack output. There are two extra small block resistors on the pcb. I just don't know what it's doing or how much. The old school wiring you used to be able to test the ohms. This one seems not.
 

strayedstrater

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Some years, some models had "coil tapping" that was neither true coil tapping nor coil splitting. They used some sort of a preset tone circuit that cuts bass and mids rather than typical tone circuits that cut treble. It doesn't change the DC resistance.

Gives a thinner sound without as much volume drop as splitting, and remains humbucking.

True tapping and splitting are different things. There are some tapped single coils, but while tapped humbuckers are theoretically possible no one makes them (perhaps some boutique maker has made some but if so they're very uncommon).

I haven't seen an exact description of how the tap tone circuit works. But the extra components are more likely caps or inductors rather than resistors (or a mix of the three).

Edit to add: if you built a humbucker with true tapping the switch would go from a normal wind to an underwound humbucker sound. DC resistance would drop but not as much as splitting (or switching from series to parallel).

But again, it's a "virtual tap" not a true tap. It simulates/approximates the tone of true tapping.
 
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gball

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Some years, some models had "coil tapping" that was neither true coil tapping nor coil splitting. They used some sort of a preset tone circuit that cuts bass and mids rather than typical tone circuits that cut treble. It doesn't change the DC resistance.

Gives a thinner sound without as much volume drop as splitting, and remains humbucking.

True tapping and splitting are different things. There are some tapped single coils, but while tapped humbuckers are theoretically possible no one makes them (perhaps some boutique maker has made some but if so they're very uncommon).

I haven't seen an exact description of how the tap tone circuit works. But the extra components are more likely caps or inductors rather than resistors (or a mix of the three).

Edit to add: if you built a humbucker with true tapping the switch would go from a normal wind to an underwound humbucker sound. DC resistance would drop but not as much as splitting (or switching from series to parallel).

But again, it's a "virtual tap" not a true tap. It simulates/approximates the tone of true tapping.

Exactly. This is the system they are currently using in the new Classics. It's a good tone for some things, but nothing close to actual coil tapping or splitting.
 

jeffy

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I know in 2012, Gibson introduced their new feature as "Fat-Taps". It doesn't tap but actually runs the circuit through an extra capacitor. That's probably what you have in your 2016. I've converted mine over to traditional taps with some rewiring. There's an old post about it that's linked in my sig.
 

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Thank you for all you inputs. Yeah I think the 2016 standard tap options are ok. But I do like the peter green and straight bridge options.

There's probably a web page somewhere detailing the standard pcb board evolution
 

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