1st(technically 2nd) scratch Les Paul-build

SlingBlader

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Hey, I'll just echo what ARandall said. You're asking again for advice on how to fix that "dent" and you were already given some advice about that...

Frankly, you are not acknowledging ANY advice given here. You continue to plow forward at breakneck speed trying to hit some kind of self-imposed (and unrealistic) deadline.

I"m beginning to wonder if you're just yanking our collective chain... :)

Oh, it's difficult to see it in that picture, but did you remember to rout the wiring channel before you glued the maple cap to the body?
 

rockgod212

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oh i hope you did the wire channel, your screwed if you didn't. at the rate your going, I wouldn't even do a binding channel, unless you have the right binding jig/ palm router. your need to get that neck pocket level and shim it then re route if you have too. pup cavities can easily be fixed with a good router and good bits. I would route the binding channel first then blend it all back in.

slow down..............
 

Windir

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Yes.I did route the wiring channel. It's barely visible because the base of the neck pickup cavity looks like i had used a blowtorch to remove all the material. Still, it's definitely there.
 

SlingBlader

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Yes.I did route the wiring channel. It's barely visible because the base of the neck pickup cavity looks like i had used a blowtorch to remove all the material. Still, it's definitely there.
Good deal, it was hard to tell for sure. :thumb:
 

ARandall

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Once more -

Most of your routing should be done by not routing. Drill out the routs to remove most of the bulk. Even than you should do a pass with the router that removes the remainder of the bulk wood before then doing a fine pass that finally touches the template. This last pass should ideally be less than a mm of wood being removed.
This is the same for the base. The drilling takes out the majority of depth.....you then do the last pass for depth to remove less than a mm of wood so you get a smooth bottom. Even with very dull bits (which I have used myself when they are due for upgrade) I never end up with the hideous mess you have. Below is a minimum standard for the crisp lines you should be able to achieve.....and should not stop until you do achieve. I still see flaws in this quality of work, but it is hidden so I don't feel the need to go any further.
DSC00195.JPG
DSC00196.JPG
 

Skyjerk

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Seriously, what has been said a dozen times.

You need to slow down, and you need to read (and heed) the advice that's being offered.

It looks like you try to make a cut, and then ask how to do it while explaining how it went wrong and mangled this or that.

I totally dig your enthusiasm, man. Still, you cant let it dictate your pace.
Rushing madly ahead can do damage to more than just your build. You can severely damage yourself as well making mistakes like you've already described. Like picking up your router before its stopped. Be glad it was just a template that paid the price.
 

SlingBlader

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Once more -

Most of your routing should be done by not routing. Drill out the routs to remove most of the bulk. Even than you should do a pass with the router that removes the remainder of the bulk wood before then doing a fine pass that finally touches the template. This last pass should ideally be less than a mm of wood being removed.
This is the same for the base. The drilling takes out the majority of depth.....you then do the last pass for depth to remove less than a mm of wood so you get a smooth bottom. Even with very dull bits (which I have used myself when they are due for upgrade) I never end up with the hideous mess you have. Below is a minimum standard for the crisp lines you should be able to achieve.....and should not stop until you do achieve. I still see flaws in this quality of work, but it is hidden so I don't feel the need to go any further.
View attachment 273670 View attachment 273671
May I point out that you built this whole thing backwards?!?





:naughty:
 

Windir

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A quick update:
I made a new neck pocket template yesterday and re-routed the neck cavity. I made neck pocket wider by couple mm:s, getting rid of all the bumps i made previously. There's some burn marks on the bottom but the bottom is perfectly square and flat( unless my metal woodworking square's warped).
Now i only need to clean the pickup cavities little bit because i didn't finish the job and they look awful.
 

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timgman

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Well, I'll say this. You've accomplished more in 2 weeks than I have in over 1 year.
 




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