1st build, which templates should i make?

[strömsborg]

That method will still cause you issue if you cut using the blank on the side like you did in your thread.....no matter how many small cuts you have. Using the router as a suspended thickness planer is still an almost infinitely better way to do quality cuts if you must use a router. I rout body blanks with the side cutters and take small passes and you still end up with steps in the edge - its unavoidable with a 1/4" collet router and almost the same with a 1/2". Fine for the body where you have to sand the outline anyhow to make it ready for finishing.
Totally useless if you have to have a perfectly flat and square surface for a glue joint. And no, sanding that afterwards won't give you a flat enough surface either.

Below is my jig for making the heel (and for the fretboard part, and for the headstock too). The fretboard face should be jointed flat anyhow, so setting up your your router so it sits parallel with the table top means the heel is automatically the right thickness all the way around. And like all other cuts, the very last one is mere fractions of a mm so the tool isn't pulled out of square by the cutting torque. You then only have to scrape the top flat to remove any minor ridges or burrs.
To do an angle cut on the heel using this method is harder as both boards have to have the same angle, and suspending one end can induce flex on the boards meaning you can possibly cut an arc.

As said - even Gibson routed the angle into the body with their industrial machinery.
With handheld type tools and beginner knowledge/experience its a nightmare to do the angle on the neck, and super easy to do it on the body......why make life harder????

The more I think about it the more I realise you are right.
I have another neck blank and will likely make another Junior (and do it right) so your method will be put to the test.

 

[robotnic]

I also think the angle on the pocket is the easier way to to.
The neck black is on the proper parallel dimension, so why messing up those 2 surfaces.
There is a video on YouTube from Fletcher guitars building 2 lp Jr. He has built a very nice jig for routing the neck pocket.
At abut 11min
https://youtu.be/S8YXxMplA94

 

[robotnic]

So I'm finished with all templates in 3D ready for the lasercutting.
Do you guys see anything thats missing or that should be cut also?

 

[pshupe]

Why do you need 5 neck profile shapes? Are they all different? I also wouldn't add the headstock to the neck taper. Stop it at the leading edge of the nut. What material are you having these laser cut? What about neck mortise?

Cheers Peter.

 

[robotnic]

Hy Peter.
Yes, the neck profiles are all different. They are the profiles on fret 1, 3, 7, 12 and 17. That are the numbers for, standing at the bottom left of the profiles.
For the neck mortise I'm going for a jig as in the video I postet in post #22. cool jig, take a look.
The templetes will be cut out of Aluminium or some kind of plastic. I don't know yet what material will be available, but I think it will be 5-10mm Aluminium.
The reason why i put the headstock on the neck taper is shown in post #12.
Ist not the acual size of the headstock, it's the projected outline of the 17° headstock.
To get this vertical edge at the first bend of the headstock. This edge is not perpendicular tho the top face as the very last edges.

 

[robotnic]

So I just converted the 1st page of the plan to mm (metric).
More pages will follow when i have more time.
So if anybody needs a copy send me a PN

 

[pshupe]

robotnic - you do not need more than 2 neck profile templates, if the neck is straight. Think of a line down the center of the back of the neck. If the line is straight then it is a line between two points. 5 may over complicate things tremendously unless you want different shapes between different frets. For instance a "C" shape between nut and 3rd, and then a "D" shape between 3rd and 5th, and then "V" shape between 5th and 7th, etc etc.

That jig is pretty cool. There is a similar one that a lot of people use here and it is a bit more useful for a lot of other routes. It relates more to a LP Standard, but if this is your first, it probably won't be your last.

Check out this thread - http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211695

Cheers Peter.

 

[robotnic]

Thanks Peter

Great jig. Because Im new in building, any advice is so helpful.
Got my blanks today..quartersawn body and neck blank..
I a little worried abod the body blank. Im going to a transparent finish any Im thinking if a flatsawn blank would look better for this kind of finish..

Cheers Robin