1969 Tele Thinline build

pshupe

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Just working out the final details before cutting the body. I think I only have one question left in that area. I've got the body all laid out and added my bridge and aligned with mounting holes, string through holes, and bridge pup route.
CAD12.JPG


The only possible issue now is the length of the neck and how that affects where the scale length / bridge saddle location. It seems the distance between the mounting holes and the scale length is a little short. I believe I am using a standard Telecaster neck, so it should be correct. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Regards Peter.
 

valvetoneman

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Yeah I guess I could use a Hot Rod low profile rod like the ones Stew Mac sells. I have a bunch of those and the spot facer as well. That is a better use of that rod. I do not like it in the angled head stock neck. I could actually route down from the underside of the neck and do a skunk stripe. There would be no need for a walnut plug at the head stock end. It could also be a flat route and a flat filler strip. That's a good idea. Thanks.

Cheers Peter.
Why don't you like those rods in an angled headstock
 

valvetoneman

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Just working out the final details before cutting the body. I think I only have one question left in that area. I've got the body all laid out and added my bridge and aligned with mounting holes, string through holes, and bridge pup route.
View attachment 485300

The only possible issue now is the length of the neck and how that affects where the scale length / bridge saddle location. It seems the distance between the mounting holes and the scale length is a little short. I believe I am using a standard Telecaster neck, so it should be correct. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Regards Peter.
I'll try and measure mine later, as long as it's a standard tele neck and body template you shouldn't have a problem
 

pshupe

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Why don't you like those rods in an angled headstock
Because they have 3 different depths to route, and frankly it's not much more shallow than any other truss rod.
trussrodJPG.JPG


The low profile part is in the thicker part of the neck where it makes least difference. It was not designed for an angled head stock. It was designed for a Fender style two piece neck where you adjust from the heel. I'd rather just use the hot rod double action truss rod (non-low profile) or actually find a rod that is the same depth right out the head stock. It has to be double acting though. I think LMII and some other places make a better one but they are a bit more pricey.

Regards Peter.
 

pshupe

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I'll try and measure mine later, as long as it's a standard tele neck and body template you shouldn't have a problem
Thanks - yeah that is the issue. I'm using the standard body drawings and standard neck drawings that should be perfect together. Maybe they are and I'm just sweating the small details. There is more to think about with a bolt on neck because if I want to CNC a few bodies and sell them, they'll have to work with a 3rd party neck. Similarly with the neck. If I build a few Tele style necks I want to make sure they work on any standard Tele body.

Cheers Peter.
 

valvetoneman

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From the nut face to the end of the neck it's around 466/467mm and around 185mm from the back of the neck to the saddles

Neck pocket is 75mm

Hope that helps
 

pshupe

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From the nut face to the end of the neck it's around 466/467mm and around 185mm from the back of the neck to the saddles

Neck pocket is 75mm

Hope that helps
That is exactly the neck length I have. Same for the neck pocket. Also very close to the back adjustment on my saddles. I think I am good. If I change anything to get my saddles in better shape it will come off those specs. Thanks. I think that proves I am good.


Cheers Peter.
 
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pshupe

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So I have decided to add some inlays to the guitar body. Seeing as this one is for me I'm gonna add a couple of maple leaf inlays in a couple of places on the body. Actually there is a story about this particular inlay. The first guitar my father and I built together which was a Les Paul carved top had a maple leaf inlay. But the reason behind it was because my dad was a general contractor and has done woodworking his whole life. I did not have a shop yet and he was planing, thicknessing, and gluing up the tops while I was working during the week. I called him to see how it went and he said it went good and through that discussion he said he glued up the tops and biscuit joined them. I said WHOA, you what? I guess he had thought about the carving of the top and that may expose the biscuits. Also he was a carpenter and that's just how you joined thin pieces of wood on edge like that. I kinda chuckled and hoped for the best. But not surprisingly we carved into the biscuits and I decided to cover it with a rosewood maple leaf inlay. Here is a pic of my first guitar build from 8 yrs ago.
attachFull758319


You can see the biscuit inside the leaf inlay outline. I really liked the inlay and how it looked on the finished guitar. So I will do the same thing on this build. I have updated my renders to show the leaf. I also will put one on the back inside the control cavity cover.

attachFull758321

attachFull758323


So I worked on the back control cavity cover. Grabbed an off cut from the ash and re-sawed a chunk off.
attachFull758324


cut out the profile and the inlay pocket as well as drilling the screw holes.
attachFull758325


I grabbed a piece of walnut about the right size and cut out the inlay. I forgot to get a pic of it cut out but here is the raw piece in the CNC.
attachFull758326


and all finished up - glued in, planed and sanded flush.

attachFull758327


Does anyone else agonize over getting the gap consistent all the way around the cover? I usually machine a very tight tolerance and then have issues after finish. I went with a bigger gap this time in hopes I could align properly. Should work out.

and a pic of the whole back -

attachFull758328


Cheers Peter.
 

pshupe

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So I did all the final CNC work to the front and cut out the body. Everything went really well until... I blew out some of the binding on the top. It was actually a pretty stupid mistake. When I cut out a guitar body on my machine I offset the cutout toolpath about 1/32" and cut multiple cut down the 1 3/4" to cut the body completely out of the stock. Then I run another path with no offset the full depth of the body, usually, this cleans up the edge of the witness lines from all the small passes to cut out the body. This is where I should've known what would happen. It cut the binding perfectly on the first cutout path but when it did the clean up some of the binding, at the end grain location, blew out. It's about a 4" long piece at the end of the body. I should be able to patch it easy enough but I have to admit I let some 4 letter words fly. Stupid mistake. Oh well, it could've been much worse and other than that I am very happy with the result.

Here is the tearout area -
IMG_0456.JPG



I'll trim it flush and cut another piece to fit in there. It should be pretty much invisible but will be a constant reminder to me! :-(

Here is the final result -
IMG_0424.JPG


IMG_0429.JPG
IMG_0425.JPG


I also counter sunk the holes in the control cavity cover and put the screws in. I'll be putting this body on the shelf for a bit as I work on other stuff and basically did his so I didn't lose or damage the cover. I setup my drill press to the correct height and use a countersink tool that has the same taper as most screws, which is not 90 degrees btw. Took me a lot of head scratching to figure out why the screws never sat correctly.
IMG_0428.JPG


I still have to do some clean up of the bottom plate and cut and glue up the leaf inlay on the front but I'm pretty happy to be done with the major CNC work.

Cheers Peter.
 

bcguitars74

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Looks amazing!! I'm loving that contrasting inlay on the cover, going to have to consider this for my next build!
 

61LPSG

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Looks great. I'm anxious to see the final result.

I want to do a Tele-ish build, a Lestercaster.
Mahogany body, maple neck; and P90s. I need to find decent plan.

pshupe said:

" I setup my drill press to the correct height and use a countersink tool that has the same taper as most screws, which is not 90 degrees btw. Took me a lot of head scratching to figure out why the screws never sat correctly. "

From the pic it looks like you used a center drill and not an actual countersink. Center drills are often 60* ( they do come in 82* and 90*) and most common cntrsinks are 82* ,90* , 60*.
 

Gtarzan81

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Looks great. I'm anxious to see the final result.

I want to do a Tele-ish build, a Lestercaster.
Mahogany body, maple neck; and P90s. I need to find decent plan.

pshupe said:

" I setup my drill press to the correct height and use a countersink tool that has the same taper as most screws, which is not 90 degrees btw. Took me a lot of head scratching to figure out why the screws never sat correctly. "

From the pic it looks like you used a center drill and not an actual countersink. Center drills are often 60* ( they do come in 82* and 90*) and most common cntrsinks are 82* ,90* , 60*.
I'm not having the Lt. build me something similar. Korina body. Thinline.. Humbucker and LP control layout.
 

pshupe

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Looks great. I'm anxious to see the final result.

I want to do a Tele-ish build, a Lestercaster.
Mahogany body, maple neck; and P90s. I need to find decent plan.


pshupe said:

" I setup my drill press to the correct height and use a countersink tool that has the same taper as most screws, which is not 90 degrees btw. Took me a lot of head scratching to figure out why the screws never sat correctly. "

From the pic it looks like you used a center drill and not an actual countersink. Center drills are often 60* ( they do come in 82* and 90*) and most common cntrsinks are 82* ,90* , 60*.
Thanks - me too. ;-) The nice thing about bolt on neck guitars is they are pretty much done when the body is done. They do call them countersinks. They do have a drill tip, so you do not need a hole but I usually drill 1/8" dia holes with my CNC and then follow it with those bits. They are 82 degrees. It's very handy to setup the drill press for the correct counter sink and then just drill as many as you need at the correct depth. I like the head of the screw to be just barely proud of the cover, pickguard, or truss rod cover. I'll be making a black walnut neck PUP ring as well.
Capture.JPG

Cheers Peter.
 

pshupe

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So today I patched the binding. I took the piece I cut the original binding from and cut a piece right next to the one that blew up. I made a few test strips to see how thin I could cut without it breaking apart. I didn't want to have the same issue again.
IMG_0460.JPG


IMG_0461.JPG


I cut it a little over sized and can trim it down to fit in there. Looks like the grain should match pretty well.

IMG_0462.JPG


It's a little thicker and a little taller but looks pretty good.
IMG_0464.JPG


I scraped the top flush and used a template bit to flush trim the edge. I'm pretty happy with it. It didn't blow apart again on the router table which was good.
IMG_0466.JPG


I still have to do some sanding on the edge of the body but if you didn't know it was there it would be hard to spot. I also finished up the leaf inlay and sanded flush.

IMG_0465.JPG


Cheers Peter.
 

failsafe306

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Amazing patch job on that binding! I can’t even tell where exactly the patched part is, from that last pic.

I bet if that same thing had happened to me, I would have had to have somebody hold me back to keep me from bandsawing that body in half out of frustration :laugh2:
 

pshupe

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So I did a quick mockup and remembered I hadn't cut the jack hole yet. I bought a few spot facers some years ago and thought I'd give those a try.

IMG_0468.JPG


I drilled a 3/16" hole with a brad point bit for the pilot to follow. I also cut down a piece of 3/16" rod about the correct length and drilled the jack hole.
IMG_0469.JPG

and installed an electro jack socket. Pretty simple.

IMG_0475.JPG


I also did a quick mock up to drill all the holes and make sure everything would fit where it should.

IMG_0471.JPG


I didn't have a neck pup ring, so I might make one out of black walnut and that should be all I need to mock up. I also had a black walnut neck that I cut for a friend of mine so I thought I'd test fit that. I really like that neck and think I will do the same thing for this guitar. Black Walnut neck, maple skunk stripe, and maple finger board. I have a roasted birdseye maple fret board blank but it might be too busy. I might do a mock-up once I have the pup ring and the neck cut.

Cheers Peter.
 

pshupe

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So as I decided to do a black walnut neck I ripped a quarter sawn chunk off a board I had been saving. The one side of the board was quarter sawn so I cut off about 4" wide.
IMG_0473.JPG


It was about 1 3/4" thick so I re-sawed it down to about 13/16" so I should be able to get 2 quarter sawn necks that I will add finger boards.

IMG_0474.JPG


I have to finish up my tool paths for the neck and then I can cut it out.

Cheers Peter.
 

redking

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that's a great headstock shape Peter!
 

lowatter

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Amazing job Peter. A thread like this ought to be over at TDPRI if you're a member.
My father used to sap maples on my grandparent's farm near Dundas(I'll edit this when I talk to him later if this is incorrect). He's 88 and still going strong. He lives in downtown Hamilton and has a cottage on Diamond lake up north. I hope to make it up there soon to visit him and Freddy G and you too possibly if we can make it happen. I was born in St Joseph in 1960 but lived most of my old fart life in the US. I'm down in South Carolina now and will never move again. I've got roots here now.
 


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