1958 Korina Flying V Correct wiring diagram

Foughasie

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Hello,

Could anyone direct me to a 100% authentic and working wiring diagram or attach pictures of the internal wiring of the original 1958 Flying V's?

I started out on a diagram but i've got lots of problems. For the moment, only the neck pickup is working. The bridge seems to be shorted somewhere but I can't seem to find out where.

I'm especially looking on how to wire the ground wires from the toggle switch to volume pots and to the grounding of the output wire. I'm guessing my circuit is shorting there.

Another error I've got is that the tone pot seems to act as a volume pot. When turned down, there's no signal anymore.

Anyway, pictures and or a diagram would be very welcome so I could check the ground and the tone pot error.

Thanks in advance for your help and expertise!
 

ARandall

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Almost every diagram I have ever seen are working ones.
The issues come from people either not applying them correctly, not understanding how their actual switch works - so just soldering based on a diagram rather than on reality, or some mechanical interference like hots touching grounds/cap lugs touching ground, grounds not properly attached etc.

Maybe you can post some links to the diagram you have used, and also (in focus!!) pics of your job.

I have a vintage V build but I chose to wire it to my specs.......like no tone for the neck pickup.
 

Foughasie

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I soldered on a diagram indeed...

But it seems as if my 2 hot/lead circuit are good. When i measure the connectivity with my multimeter, the signal goes through from pickup to toggle switch to pot to output jack. When I'm checking the ground circuit of my neck pickup, all is well too. So to me, it seems there's something wrong with my ground circuit for my bridge pickup.

Right now I'm thinking the trouble came from the grounding around my three wires to the toggle switch. It's braided wire, and I soldered strong ground wire around those 3 wires going to the toggle switch. The connection at the toggle switch was OK, but I had no connection between the middle lug of the bridge volume pot and the toggle switch. There's also a problem with my tone pot which completely shuts off the signal when turned down; it is acting like a volume pot and I can't see why.

This is how it looks now. I'll try to make 3 new wires, wrap ground wire around them and solder them to the toggle switch.

Can you see more errors I made via these pictures? Thanks for your help!
 

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ARandall

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What wattage iron are you using??? It looks like you have been struggling to get a joint on pot backs.....its a bit messy and there is way too much solder everywhere.

That aside, if the bridge pickup is showing continuity through to the jack when open and not working once closed up, something about fitting the guard down is making a short circuit.
Personally I'd look to getting some cloth covered wire like Fenders use. Things like your wrapped ground around the braided wire are just asking for trouble - thats right near a pot for one.
The tone cap pot I think should be wired on a different lug. The typical gibson circuit has the cap come in on the outer lug then the middle lug grounded. But in this case I'd run a line to the outer lug, then bridge the cap to ground off the middle.

So I'd tidy your grounds. I'm not seeing a wire for bridge ground at all, and your switch chassis doesn't have anything either.
Wire the ground with 1 wire to each subsequent connection.....switch, pot 1, 2, 3 then to the jack.
DSC00659.JPG

You can see above, that the black wires on the upper side follow this pattern. I only have a tone for the bridge pickup, so it is wired from that pickup's pot. But I'd run a wire from the tone pot to the switch, then that same outer lug to the jack hot.
 

Foughasie

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It 's a normal 40W soldering iron station, and I'm using solder temperature from 365 to 405° C (for the grounding on the pots).

My problems are almost all solved:

The tone pot issue: i shouldn't have soldered the middle lug to the back of the back (ground). I degrounded this, and added a jumper to the wire of the cap that is on the farthest lug. I could've left the farthest lug open, and solder the wire of the cap to the middle lug too for a solution i think.

Next up; i desoldered all toggle switch wires on the toggle switch and to the pots. I completely redid those three (new) wires, regrounded them and wrappep them in some masking tape. Now all my pickups are functioning correcty, as well as my tone pot.

I've got one more issue for the moment: when in toggle middle position + one of the two volume pots is completely turned down, all signal is gone. Is this a characteristic of the vintage wiring or is there still an error in there somewhere (which i suspect)?

I added pictures of the (almost) complete wiring.
 

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ARandall

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The middle position behaviour is perfectly normal. You can do independent wiring to make the vol pot grounds isolated from each other, but you get the artefact of the tone pot loading the pickup tone down.
 

Foughasie

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The middle position behaviour is perfectly normal. You can do independent wiring to make the vol pot grounds isolated from each other, but you get the artefact of the tone pot loading the pickup tone down.
Very nice, so in fact my Flying V is now (finally!!) good to go. This mechanism on the middle position of the switch, is indeed a consequence of the fifties, vintage wiring then? (i want to make sure i didn't install a modern wiring).

Thanks for all your help.
 

Foughasie

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Very nice, so in fact my Flying V is now (finally!!) good to go. This mechanism on the middle position of the switch, is indeed a consequence of the fifties, vintage wiring then? (i want to make sure i didn't install a modern wiring).

Thanks for all your help.
Okay no answer needed.

I found it here: http://www.mylespaul.com/threads/is-this-how-the-middle-position-should-work-with-50s-wiring.312069/

If anyone wants a schematic for my wiring, i can provide it (I'll have to correct the errors in the previous one).
 
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cain61

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Where did you find decent '58 V plans? Yours looks awesome, by the way.
 

ARandall

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Plans.....as in for building one.

There is a mega thread of 20+ pages on this very section of the forum that deals with vintage V construction.......plus a sticky on how to search for threads.
 

pwhite

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40 watt Iron should be hotter than that, 90% of the time I have variable Iron cranked but I did bench work for 10 years. If you use a hotter iron and prepare and pre tin everything you can get better results. I use a super hot Iron and use a 1and2and3 rule. I get good results and the only place I would back off it on circuit boards especially cheap ones made in China on which pretty much anything will lift the pads. Remember iron goes on 1and2and3 off iron comes off.
 


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