yes...important. overdrill the maple to be sure the screw slips and doesn't engage in the maple, but rather passes through and pulls the two pieces together. very important point
like you said in an earlier post....i overlooked this one somehow when it was published. while i'll probably never build one, i like looking at threads of other models. this has exceptionally crisp work, has great pics, and is well delivered.
^^^i agree about the screws. i always establish my centerline before cutting edge profile on my back piece, and then line the splice on the top accordingly. if this is done before gluing, it's easy to predrill the top assuring it won't scoot around when glueing. when glueing, i start with the...
this information exchange has been perhaps one of the most interesting, informing and productive exchanges i have seen in a long time. great logic involved and much learned. i feel many viewers will learn from this. thanks guys. i love this forum
the problem i see with stains, is that they apply directly to the wood. if you go for something and it's not to your liking, you have to sand it back and try again. of course, you should allways test on scraps to get what you want, to minimize or eliminate undesired results. the option, is to...
i have used a soft clean cloth with a little dab on the end of it, and sometimes i use a soft buffing wheel on my dremel, turned down a little low. i generally use cloth, though. if the dremel snags the edge of the binding it wil burn it pretty quick. i can't tell the difference between doing...
i just use wet or dry paper (dry, of course), after i crown. i start with 320 and stop with 2000, then use polishing compound, then swirl remover. of course i mask off the fretboard, using three layers of blue painters tape. i do one at a time and move down once i finish with the compound...
if you are responding to failsafe's post no 13, i took it to meant the paint shop didn't have any pigments compatable with lacquer. i didn't take it that he was disputing laying lacquer over those other bases, but i may be wrong.
we only have one major auto paint supplier here, but several years ago when i made my attempt, i was told that the industry as a whole is moving away from lacquer, as the govt is making it harder and harder with the restrictions put on it, combined with the newer, better finishes...
dont commit all of your lacquer before you do a test to see if they are in fact compatable. while i'm sure cmj is quite right in that 'most'' are compatable, i had an experience trying that once and the tint didn't mix at all. it was like oil and water. I can also confirm the trans tint deal...