I'm sure it's "close" and I'm aware of its adjustable height feature. But be aware that no company as of yet is making guitars with fretwork that is so consistent that any given "drop in" replacement nut won't need some tweaking to make the setup perfect on any given guitar. Even with the two...
If you're going to be adjusting the height of the zero fret itself along the ridge, to fine tune and shape its curve, and it's titanium, you will need a diamond stone for that.
I can pretty much guarantee that any pre-slotted nut will have the nut slots cut higher than optimum, and probably by a great deal. A good nut is slotted to fit the fret job and give super low first fret action without buzzing and it's a matter of just a couple thousandths of an inch that makes...
I see no reason to go with the titanium version of the zero fret nut. No doubt it's more expensive, and titanium is very hard to work, particularly with hand tools, so getting the string height set optimally will be very much harder than with the brass unit. I say stick with the brass unit...
You don't need a spray booth. It's nice to have but hardly a requirement. Incidentally, most auto paint supply shops have the capacity to make a custom spray can with your finish and color of choice loaded into it. It'll be a "1K" (single component) paint.
I am sure that Australia has automotive paint and body shops and stores that provide them with all their paints and supplies. They can probably help you out in some ways. They may have some lacquer products and stains and tints that will work with it.
There's no definite rule on finish order when it comes to the colors and stains.
Another example: I built this LP in 2001. I used five different colors to get this burst. Yellow Colortone stain in the center, warmed up with amber over it. (I hate pure yellow.) I did NOT yellow stain the...
I can see it now...I design, engineer, and build a guitar where the entire string path is machined out of a block of 4340 steel and the mirror polished, precision ground tungsten carbide frets are individually replaceable IF they ever show signs of wear. Just order up a new replacement fret for...
No, you would not want to use an electric or airless paint sprayer. That's for houses. Stuff where a pebbly surface finish is OK with you. Because that's what you'll get.
As for the way to do stains and dyes....the only way to know which way works for you is to explore and figure out what...
I made a version of a CS-336 some years ago. A really fun build. I post this photo to inspire you.
That top was....mic drop. I just couldn't believe what I got out of that huge chunk of maple that I bought. I got TWO top sets out of that chunk and when I got it, it was so fresh and so full...
Colortone stains are good and they don't fade. If you have them, use them.
You don't get spots when spraying a shaded finish if the spray paint can is properly shaken up for even mixing, unless the nozzle is very low quality. Preval bottles are pretty good and can yield professional results...
Yes, share photos of your work! All efforts are commendable, and commendable efforts lead to stunning efforts with a little practice. Never be ashamed of what you've poured your heart into.
Shading lacquer is easy. Just add dyes to clear lacquer. This goes on second to last. Clear...
Be aware that staining the maple directly gives a TOTALLY different look as compared to spraying shaded lacquer over the wood. Your classic Les Paul sunburst uses the shaded lacquer approach, PRS and the guitars I posted above use the stain on wood approach.
You just apply the stains where...