Victor's LP goes on a diet..

Dave, you are nothing short of an artist. Makes me want to donate my tools to someone who can make better use of them...

LeftyF2003 said:

Dave, you are nothing short of an artist. Makes me want to donate my tools to someone who can make better use of them...

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Well, thank you!

LtDave32 said:

That we thought about. At first I told him the body weight was akin to a Hofner Club 40 (which is a ridiculously light, hollow, LP shape with a similar top carve), but with the hardware mounted and the strap button where it is, I don't think neck-dive will be an issue. I estimate the guitar will be somewhere in the low 8lb range, a savings of somewhere around 3lbs.

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There are a ton of chambered (same way as you chambered mine) on Reverb, all for sale by the same dealer. They're all in the 7lb range, with a few being in the high 6lb range. I'm honestly not worried about it.

It's going to be an improvement for sure!

New cap, new board... when are you going to make it official and inlay a DSG cactus on the headstock?

CB91710 said:

New cap, new board... when are you going to make it official and inlay a DSG cactus on the headstock?

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Same exact guitar as before, just chambered with a new top (and binding).

VictorB said:

Same exact guitar as before, just chambered with a new top (and binding).

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I thought he replaced the board with some Braz a couple of years ago?

CB91710 said:

I thought he replaced the board with some Braz a couple of years ago?

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Different LP. That was a select Wildwood LP that weighed in the mid 7lb range.

CB91710 said:

I thought he replaced the board with some Braz a couple of years ago?

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Different LP.

Heat-forming the binding before gluing, and letting it cool and harden in-place. Tough area is around the horn , getting it formed without stretching and thinning. I managed that just fine.



I will be using Sig-Ment or some other solvent based glue for the binding.. gotta use gloves because that heat gun is danger hot.

We got the binding all pre-formed and taped in place ..



Now, we're going to let that cool and harden, and later tonight we will cement it in, and wrap it and hold it in place with 1" linen strap, the way Gibson does it.

In the morning, it should be ready for trimming flush with the top.

Oh, and we're going to put masking tape all along the sides under the binding ledge, so the solvent glue doesn't eat the existing finish...

I need to attend some other stuff, so it will be a few days before the next update.

This is great Dave, lightweight is the only way for me these days, typically under 7.5lbs with Spanish cedar no chambering.

I haven't posted anything for a long time, I'm building my own offset stuff the most and not sure anybody would be that interested.
I do have my own single cut burst to make which is going to be killer, it's uncarved and only 5.4lbs so far.

Looking forward to seeing this finished.

valvetoneman said:

I haven't posted anything for a long time, I'm building my own offset stuff the most and not sure anybody would be that interested.
I do have my own single cut burst to make which is going to be killer, it's uncarved and only 5.4lbs so far.

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That's great! Please start a thread with pics, I'm interested to see this!

LtDave32 said:

Heat-forming the binding before gluing, and letting it cool and harden in-place. Tough area is around the horn , getting it formed without stretching and thinning. I managed that just fine.

View attachment 849619

I will be using Sig-Ment or some other solvent based glue for the binding.. gotta use gloves because that heat gun is danger hot.

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I'd love to see the various methods everyone uses to address the stretching/thinning around the horn Dave mentioned.

JBL Instruments said:

I'd love to see the various methods everyone uses to address the stretching/thinning around the horn Dave mentioned.

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Application of heat. Don't overdo it, is key. Say you've got a length of binding that's curved in a circle, as it typically comes. You cut off a 2-foot section for neck binding. You want it straight, so you place it on your bench arch-up, then heat it up to the point it begins to relax on it's own. That is the key heat point, and no further. To heat it any further, it can distort and stretch.

That heat point starts where you make the cutaway curve. Tape it in-place very securely, then leave it to cool and get rigid. Come back later and start wrapping it around the horn, heating it gently as you go, but just to the point it begins to relax, and have your assistant hold it tightly in place with leather-gloved hands so they don't get burned by the heat gun. One has to get their fingers in there in close proximity to the heat.

Have them hold it tightly around the point of the horn until it cools a bit, then tape it there securely in place, walk away for a while.

The rest is cake.

LtDave32 said:

The rest is cake.

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Cake?
I don’t think so.

I’ll leave binding to professionals like you.

Not sure how i missed this but better late than never. Great work @LtDave32 !!

Assistant.....????

Why is this the first we are hearing about this...?

Gfunk_Minor said:

Assistant.....????

Why is this the first we are hearing about this...?

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It's not. My wife Anna is frequently a part of my builds. Her hand's on the first page.

Here she is with something else: